Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

std ecu??? use fuel cut defender?? wat power....u got dyno sheet to show...please list mods and costs........i am very interested

cheers,

daniel

Yes, Std Ecu remapped to suit : RB25 Turbo,exhaust, fmic etc. Factory fuel/boost cut raised, 180 kmh speed cut raised, fuel and timimg adjusted and all checked with AFR meter. Not been on Dyno yet but there is a noticable gain in power and driveability. As for costs, you would be better off talking with Toshi, but I paid $230 for 2-3 hrs work. Well worth it in my opinion.

Just had my R32 Gtst computer remapped by Toshi from this forum and I am quite impressed with the results and would recommend him anyday for a remap in Sydney. Best valued performance gain yet.

do you know if he does r33 gtst ecu remaps? got contact details for him? where is he based?

Remap is the best $400 I ever spent. Was done on a dyno.

With the standard ECU as soon as you add a big exhaust and up the boost they run ridiculously rich ~10:1 afr. With the remap I had it leaned out to 12:1 throughout the rev range/load points. In turn I get MUCH better economy, power is up from 127 to 151rwkw. More top end, smoother idle. Its just so much better. Had the speed limit removed as well.

Highly recommended, just as good as a stand alone ECU as they can do timing and fuel. You still retain your standard knock features, excess air flow cut (if say your waste gate hose splits).

I got mine done via the speed lab, he should be here on these forums do a search. R33 computers are very hard to remap so not many people do them, if any at all.

do you know if he does r33 gtst ecu remaps? got contact details for him? where is he based?

Do a search in the Members section for "Toshi" and he will come up. Not sure about the R33 remap, send him a PM and ask.

Tim

do you know if he does r33 gtst ecu remaps? got contact details for him? where is he based?

Just found his Mobile number, give him a call about the R33 remap etc , Toshi 0410490049, he is at Nth Ryde in Sydney.

Tim

  • 3 weeks later...

R32 remap chip $250(Sydney only).  check A/F and modified ecu(fit socket to ecu) check diagnosis

Remap make real time on the road by emulator. If you want to check on dyno I will come with you.

R33 remap chip for boost up will be $310 (Sydney only)  check A/F and modified ecu(fit socket to ecu)

Check diagnosis , remap make not real time .I will calculation from your cars A/F.

This is R33 auto dyno sheet. s

(red) Std boost (7.4psi) std ECU.152kw

(green) Std boost (7.4psi) my chip. about 170kw

(blue) boost 11psi my chip. 185kw

http://users.tpg.com.au/yuna/dyno%20kw1.jpg

[basic data changes in the chip]

Fuel map

Ignition timing map

TTP max

Remove speed and boost limiter

You be able to request rev limit.

E-MAIL [email protected]

Ph 0410490049

*) About does not work remap performance rom(chip)(lower power than std ecu)

Early, later model has the same fuel and ignition map however, program is different depending on the ecu number (ecu hard ware is different).

I have checked some cheap roms(chip) and programs differ depending on the ECU number as I have mentioned previously.

Some had later model program rom(chip) fitted to early model ecu(eg;mec-212 program rom(chip) fitted to mec-106 ecu.) and some with R32 rom(chip) fitted to cefiro ecu(never start engine).

So, when you buy rom(chip) I would advise you to check ecu number.(MEC-000)

It is best not to buy from places where they are unable to remap chip according to the ecu number.

Same goes for when purchasing secondhand roms(chip). Always check the ecu number.

Also check A/F before ordering the rom(chip). Many R32 appear to have airflow metro or fuel pump problems(If airflow meter is dirty A/F will lean). If remap rom(chip) is fitted when the car A/F is lean, your engine will blow up.

Many people seem to hold questions about remap rom (chip) and a lot of not good condition skylines exist.

So I will start free check now.

When boosted up and fitted a properly tuned rom, your car will most certainly have gained power. (If slower or back fire etc it is most likely due to some trouble on your car)

1)Free program check

If you got remap ecu or remap rom(chip) and feel that there is not much difference or lower power than std ecu,very rich etc, I will free check fuel, ignition map and program.

2)Remap ROM(chip) free trial (Sydney only)

If you are interested in remap ecu and road testing for the difference, you’ll be able to road test anytime.

3)Free check diagnosis(Sydney only)

If your cars engine etc has problem (eg: back fire) I will check diagnosis.

TOSHI(Im motor mechanic)

Ph 0410490049

[email protected]

Toshi do you also offer real time tuning on a dyno so that the map is optimised for a specific car ? Obviously at a different price.

Please tell me what type of engine.

If that has nissan consult port I be able to tune.

Because I need map trace.

toshi, if you have a wideband AFR meter are you interested in doing a little tuning on my GTR? It's running a power FC, but I just want have the lower part of the map looked at for better economy. it's not running in closed loop properly due to fauly 02 sensors, so I want to turn off 02 feedback and just tune the 'cruise' area of the map manually.

Yes,I have wideband A/F meter.

I be able to tuning.

Why you do not change 02 sencer?

toshi, if you have a wideband AFR meter are you interested in doing a little tuning on my GTR? It's running a power FC, but I just want have the lower part of the map looked at for better economy. it's not running in closed loop properly due to fauly 02 sensors, so I want to turn off 02 feedback and just tune the 'cruise' area of the map manually.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...