Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This A Good Tune?

700HP-GTR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I am just interested in what everyone thinks of this tune....and if It good for road.

I asked for mid range punch....and everyday driving conditions......

I have not driven it yet....disregard old tune...boost controller was not set up correctly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=92010

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163761-is-this-a-good-tune/
Share on other sites
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All of the technical info is available in RB26 turbo upgrades.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...80&start=80

Set up at 1.25Bar

Yes I know it is a bit wonky...this is why I am asking this question.

I have been told it is not on shoot-out mode......which is at 15km intervals on the graph...but at 5km interval,therefore plots are marked up and down.......making a more precise type curve

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Your down around 50rwkw give or take i reckon aswell knowing your basically using 2530's

I have been told it is not on shoot-out mode......which is at 15km intervals on the graph...but at 5km interval,therefore plots are marked up and down.......making a rounder type curve

Have you even looked at the graph dude?

Its RPM based, not km/h based. :sorcerer:

I think someone is leading you up the garden path.

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Your down around 50rwkw give or take i reckon aswell knowing your basically using 2530's

Have you even looked at the graph dude?

Its RPM based, not km/h based. :sorcerer:

I think someone is leading you up the garden path.

RPM and SPEED(KM's and hour) are both the same.

As for the 50RWKW I am under.....I believe his dyno needs to be callibrated...I have been told he is always 30 to 40KS's less than other tuning houses.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Im sorry, every dyno shop says their dyno reads lower, that way if you get more power somewhere else you cant blame them. Plotting is no different in shootout or non shootout mode. If their dyno reads low, dont you think they would be the first to get it calibrated? To be perfectly honest, i dont see how cars can be tuned to give a wavy power graph, on a power run it only goes through about 15 load cells, and as long as the numbers dont jump all over the place ive always found the curve to be smooth as long as there is no missfire. Can you get a graph of AFR's?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
RPM and SPEED(KM's and hour) are both the same.

As for the 50RWKW I am under.....I believe his dyno needs to be callibrated...I have been told he is always 30 to 40KS's less than other tuning houses.

I stand by my comment about the garden path.

Definately sounds like someone is taking you for a run.

There are plenty of well known, proven workshops in Vic.

Just go to one of them

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

i can't be in shootout mode mate as it's not a dyno dynamics dyno. i have nfi if it's a good tune or not. maybe your engine has 60psi compression and the tuner did an amazing job just to get that power. on the other hand it could be a really good engine, with a really poor tune. and yes, every single dyno shop says their dyno reads low...

Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

Id have to aggree with the up and down waves on the tune, usually they are alot smoother than that aswell, looks almost like up and down "fluctuating" boost in that area or wavey afrs whos to tell tho easiest also would be an afr curve and or boost curve may help in determining these things as well as barons comments its hard to say health engine or not

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for your comments....I will try and get a afr graph and post it up soon....tuner will not be in town till thursday.

The state of the engine also has a lot to do with the max power.....I agree.

Was unaware that most tuners said that their dyno's showed lower readings than the others.....would have thought they would have the highest reading to lure the client back.(ie)"look at that great curve...look at that power I was able to tune in.."

When is the next Dyno day for SAU(VIC)...would love to see all the cars rated on the same dyno.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Dynamic Test systems are usually very good dynos.... every bit as good as Dyno Dynamics. That wavy section could be a myriad of things.... roller traction etc...

power for GT2530's is average though.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

boostd mate. inlet cam and exhaust cam are two different things. you can't compare settings on his inlet cam to your exhaust cam. it's quite common to retard the ex cam and advance the inlet cam on rb26.

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

Whether the power curve is smooth or not can be a function of the scale of the dyno graph itself. Some tuners are known for making the vertical scale on a boost or AFR curve massive so the AFR and/or boost curve looks very flat.

In saying that I would expect more power everywhere with 2530's.

BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
Posted
boostd mate. inlet cam and exhaust cam are two different things. you can't compare settings on his inlet cam to your exhaust cam. it's quite common to retard the ex cam and advance the inlet cam on rb26.

Yes, thanks for that. It's well known that retarding the exhaust cam will increase exhaust gas flow at low rpm in turn bringing boost on earlier, The advanced inlet cam causes a lumpy idle and better efficiency at high rpm....which can be seen on the dyno graph. I wasn't comparing the cams, but, what the different settings will acheive. His exhaust cam has been set at 0

Maybe the timing belt is loose and the cams would dial into in+2/ex-4 who knows, however comparing before and after graph lines its pretty obvious the tune favours top end by the shifted torque peak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...