Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Liquid For Front Windscreen Wipers

HolyEvil

By HolyEvil,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted

We use stuff called 'glassact' on the planes at work and it's by far the best stuff i have ever used, wouldn't know where to actually by it thought.....I thought rainx was more of a spray onto clean glass every now and then and it helps the water bead and roll off easier as opposed to being a cleaner???

Although I have to ask, you car still has the washer bottle in it, None of my cars still have it, always seems to be the first thing to go :blink:

Kaz200 Grand Master

Kaz200

Posted
Posted
dishwashing liquid works a treat and costs next to nothing. you only need a tiny squirt of liquid though

just think of how clean and streak-free dishes are after you just wash them...

its entirely likely the concentrated stuff they sell at the supermarket is just that..

I have to wonder about all this stuff tho, do you think it would ever dull the paint because effectively it doesn't get washed off.. ie the dishwashing liquid, concentrate etc etc.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

I have some of the rainx you add to your washer bottle and don't really rate it, at least as far as its cleaning ability goes. it did alright in repelling water I guess, but i won't bother buying it again.

also, do NOT use dishwashing liquid. it is designed to strip grease, wax, and oil off your pots and pans. guess what's on your car's paint - oils and waxes! you'll end up with paint like a chalkboard if you use dishwashing liquid long term. same as washing your car in it. yeah it's cheap but do it on an excel not a skyline.

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
its entirely likely the concentrated stuff they sell at the supermarket is just that..

I have to wonder about all this stuff tho, do you think it would ever dull the paint because effectively it doesn't get washed off.. ie the dishwashing liquid, concentrate etc etc.

I used to use the additive that places like Supercheap and Autobarn sell... but it was leaving blue stains on my paintwork where it splashed up. So stopped using it, and went back to clean pura-tap water!

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

don't use windex - it eats paint.

I don't use that additive crap. My car's not a daily driver, never gets driven in the rain, so it doesn't get dirty.

My window's always clean, so i don' tneed to use the washer.

All those things on the back say do not put it onto paintwork. think about it like this - imagine as the water evapourates, the stuff gets more and more concentrated. I don't know what they use, but if they say dont' put it on paint,t hen don't! :pwned:

GTS-4SOME Community Regular

GTS-4SOME

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bars-bugs is the best ive tried. They sell it at Autobarn and at Big W in a concentrate and pre-mix in a green and white bottle.

I used to drive from wagga to the central coast every couple of weeks, it was one of the few that work well!!!

I use rainx treatment on the front window as well to repell the water, it also repells dirt etc. You just pour a bit on, let it dry and buff it off.

Edited by GTS-4SOME
SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

dishwashing liquid is ok for the paint, it will just strip wax. Which is not a bad thing to do every now and then, after you have say 3-4 layers of wax, and just want to start fresh again, by stripping back the wax, giving the car a clay, paint cleanser, sealer, then wax.

dishwashing liquid is safe, just not for your wax.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
I used to use the additive that places like Supercheap and Autobarn sell... but it was leaving blue stains on my paintwork where it splashed up. So stopped using it, and went back to clean pura-tap water!

I've tried a few including the bars-bugs. When dried they all left nasty water marks on the paint.

I too use puratap water... dries near clean. :nyaanyaa:

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
Posted (edited)
don't use windex - it eats paint.

I don't use that additive crap. My car's not a daily driver, never gets driven in the rain, so it doesn't get dirty.

My window's always clean, so i don' tneed to use the washer.

All those things on the back say do not put it onto paintwork. think about it like this - imagine as the water evapourates, the stuff gets more and more concentrated. I don't know what they use, but if they say dont' put it on paint,t hen don't! :D

Then why bother replying in this thread.

I Use Reverse Osmosis water. Its filtered and clean water and is the only water source that has no Fluoride.

Great for drinkin, so great for my windscreen. And RO Water is better than Puratap water and leaves even less streaks. Great for washin the car too.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

I put the castrol stuff in this time and it does a good job on the windscreen but it leaves streaks over the rest of the car where the detergent-water dries... so will probably go back to plain water next time (or use much less detergent than recommended)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...