Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a Ku Engineering plenum, I was surprised how little effort it too to fit up, it cleared the clutch master and only had to make a small modification to the water lines under the plenum.

Great price also, got the plenum and a Sard rb26 fuel rail including mounting brackets for a little over $800 Fedex'd

Edited by murrayis

hey

its coming along great.

i wanted to order the tomei rb24 pistons but they are discontinued. do you think i could get ross pistons to make me up the same pistons as yourself. i have gtr crank and rods and 9.25mm lift 270 in&ex tomei cams with solid lifters

let me know,

cheers

hey

its coming along great.

i wanted to order the tomei rb24 pistons but they are discontinued. do you think i could get ross pistons to make me up the same pistons as yourself. i have gtr crank and rods and 9.25mm lift 270 in&ex tomei cams with solid lifters

let me know,

cheers

Yea that shouldn't be a problem. All the info I have on them is on the previous page so that should be enough info for you to call them and tell them what you want :P

Just remember AUS vs USD atm isnt that great might be worth trying ACL etc. see if they can make a custom set up for you.

Is the Ku Engineering plenum any good?

I was looking at one myself but its hard as i dont want to buy something and find out it sucks after a paid for it lol.

Seems to be fairly good, only comment I had for the plenum was the intake runners at the face of the plenum are a tad small but nothing and hour or two on a dremel didn't fix for mine :D

Inside was nice and smooth no visible defects, just a bit of cleaning on the outside to remove the metal polish. Fitted past the clutch master thought much of a drama, I spoke to Jack alot from Ku Engineering he was very helpful with dimentions etc so I knew it was going to fit.

On another Note,

A few changes have to be made before I goto the Dyno to get it tuned.

1) I need to lower the gearbox as I think its jutting the gearbox tunning somewhere when the engines running

2) Exhaust need to be lowered 20 mm at the front and a side effect of lowering the gearbox 10mm will bring it in striking distance of the tailshaft.

Alos how do you seal a vband dump pipe? Mine leaks in the gap on the Clamp?

Nah I have a BMI 80mm I was going to get one but got offered this one to pay a bill ;)

Just an Idea of shipping he posted it on Saturday, it arrived the following tuesday he told me on msn on Wednesday hes posted it lol

Edited by murrayis
  • 2 weeks later...

Well its all done! ready for the tune!

But... Was running it a little yesterday messing with the idle bringing it down from 2000rpm to sit around 1200rpm when.... I noticed a nice water feature from the engine bay shut it down quick smart to investigate and found the wate line under the intake had 4 or 5 pin size holes in it all spewing out coolant. Quick tip always replace all those old hoses even if it look fine its the only hose I didnt replace in the water system.

Ordered from nissan $30 later it will be here monday :ermm:

good work mate. i love seeing a project from beginning to end.

I am looking forward to seeing how the tune goes and what sort of response and power you end up with.

you have done all the hard yrads and now comes the time to enjoy the results.

goodluck!

Well got the new water Hose today Another $30 for the local nissan part department.

Fitted it all up started it up, bleed the system topped up the coolant. But noticed a slight hissing sround from Number 1 injector shut it all down and took a closer look, Last time I had the injectors out I musn't of put the o-ring back in square so it was half jammed down the hole... pulling air down past the injector... not good!

Pulled all the injectors out and checked over all the o-rings, added a smidge of silicon lube to eash o-ring just to make the seal a tad better and reseated, fired it up problem gone :P

On a different note is there a 12v source hear the battery thats only active with the ignition so I can wire a relay to it?

Cheers

Cameron

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Time for an update.

Today was the day that has been two years in the making... 7am picked up the car trailer got down to B.E.S.T performance who we had hired the dyno from strapped the car down all was running sweet.

After 45 minutes of getting the fueling correct we did a run and made 164kw on 6.3psi adjusted the fueling a little more 197.6kw on 6.3psi... and thats when the postive mood got shot down.

Third run something was wrong the entire run was 20kw short of the previous... lots of blow by coming from the cam cover breathers.... Ticking sound....

All I could think of was... Bearing...

Got the car home checked the plugs... no oil on them..started her up for a second ticking sounded like was in the head...

Tomorrow we will pull the head off i just hope its nothing major!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...