Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Thank for your help Chris. I got the Rb20 actuator on. It seems to be holding 0.6bar ~ 8.5-9psi. I might check my gauge against a calibrated one. Definately about 4-5psi above the Rb25 one which will make it easier to get 14-16 psi with the boost controller.

Have you found yours hold more like 9psi?

I took pics of them side by side. Quite easy to identify them now. Did you want the secret kept though :(

Edited by benl1981

Nah, i don't keep secrets (unless if the information is not mine and they won't let me say it). I get plenty of info from here, so I like to give it back.

It really depends on the turbo. From seeing all the threads that say 'my wastegate actuator flap is rattling' with both GCG, precision turbo and slide highflows, there's a reason.

I didn't think that GCGs did this, but there have been a few threads even with gcg highflows. All three of these highflows run a shorter cartridge. Nytsky off these forums got a precisoin turbo highflow. They cut his actuator rod and welded it shorter. Slide bent my actuator rod shorter so that it fits snuggly

Even on a stock turbo, rb20 actuators run 11psi. I was using one before the highflow. If you think about it, since the catridge is shorter, there's less preload on the spring.

My rb25 actuator which is on my turbo now is running 11psi, because it's got extra preload on it now because the rod has been shortened (that kink in the rod has been made a bit bigger. It was bent perfectly though so it doesn't look any different to the stock one).

If you're going to be running 14-16psi, how is the boost controller holding up? any drop off or spiking? what controller is it?

Hmm that's interesting.

What I found.

Stock turbo with bleed adn rb25 actuator - making 10 psi

High flow + same actuator + same bleed setting - making 10psi

Now - rb20 actuator no boost bleed - 9 psi.

I just have one of the cheap bleed valves - will connect it up again when I have my injectors on and ready for the tune..

What is the HKS actuator? How many Psi?

The reason for the rb20 actuator is in the case I want to reduce the boost I can just take the boost controller out of the system easily..

I reckon only gaining 5-7 psi from the boost controller should be ok.. Otherwise I'll tee off and insert an orifice piece that bleeds off a set amount..

  • 10 years later...
On 6/28/2007 at 8:15 AM, benl1981 said:

Thank for your help Chris. I got the Rb20 actuator on. It seems to be holding 0.6bar ~ 8.5-9psi. I might check my gauge against a calibrated one. Definately about 4-5psi above the Rb25 one which will make it easier to get 14-16 psi with the boost controller.

Have you found yours hold more like 9psi?

I took pics of them side by side. Quite easy to identify them now. Did you want the secret kept though :(

how do you tell the difference between the two actuators? and is the NEO actuator different?

Jesus christ nice 10 year thread bump, don't hold your breath waiting for benl1981 to reply.

RB20 actuator is a straight barb, RB25 actuator barb has a 90deg bend in it. Neo is same as standard RB25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...