Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently had my car tuned to V-racing 100+ Octane as i been running on it for a while now. Ben from racepace does all my tuning and he managed to get more power thru the whole range as well as a bit more top end.. I can definately tell the difference, feels more responsive and less laggy (2835 pro s) and more punchy.. The previous tune was done on BP Ultimate..

I normally fill up with V-racing on High st Ashburton on the way back from work..I had no problems with availibity until just before easter. I been to cheltenham (cnr centre dandy and warrigal rds) as well as my usual supplier in ashburton but nothing.... I been running 98octane for a couple of days without hitting boost too much..

So i asked the attendant tonight whom advised that Shell were having some problems with the mix and hence had stopped all supplies, but just had sent a new sample to be tested at their HQ??? Kinda worries me that they are having problems with the brew..

So i was just wondering if there are anyone in the industry (or not) that may have heard something?? Or anyone knows of a servo that still has supplies??

Also what is a good octane booster around these days i can mix to 98 octane fuels? I have always been sceptical towards additives, i never had good results with the turbo datsun years ago.. I still miss the days of rocking up to moorabbin airport bowser with the datto and filling straight into the tank, changing the boost from 6 to 12 psi and driving away with a smile.. :3some:

I had a quick look at the Shell site but didnt see anything related... If anyone can help with the above questions it be great :spank:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/
Share on other sites

if you cant find 100ron your best and safest bet is use the temp adjust on the hand controller and back out about 4-5 deg of ign timing

SETTING,IGN/INJ,PRESS DOWN 4 TIMES

the value should change to -4 for IGN

then you can drive around and it will dial away 4 deg off the whole map so it should be safe (well safer).

just remember that value gets reset when u power the car off so you need to set it each time as its only temporary adjust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3053488
Share on other sites

I think from the way its going (i believe all shells are out).

I'd either go back for a basic touch up tune or just drive around a bit easier.

You'll soon know if the car isnt happy via the knock. But if its not angry, you wont have a problem

I wouldnt bother using any octane boosters to be honest.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3053565
Share on other sites

if you cant find 100ron your best and safest bet is use the temp adjust on the hand controller and back out about 4-5 deg of ign timing

SETTING,IGN/INJ,PRESS DOWN 4 TIMES

the value should change to -4 for IGN

then you can drive around and it will dial away 4 deg off the whole map so it should be safe (well safer).

just remember that value gets reset when u power the car off so you need to set it each time as its only temporary adjust.

thanks for that Paul....

actually i was hoping to annoy you a little at heathcote drag day for a quick tutorial as well :3some:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3053584
Share on other sites

I think from the way its going (i believe all shells are out).

I'd either go back for a basic touch up tune or just drive around a bit easier.

You'll soon know if the car isnt happy via the knock. But if its not angry, you wont have a problem

I wouldnt bother using any octane boosters to be honest.

well its been over 2 weeks since using 98 octane, i tried giving it a little here and there and no ping...thats the genius of Ben i guess but i am staying off boost most of the time just to be safe..

i never been impressed with octane boosters either, was hoping maybe they had improved last 10 years but sounds like they still dont do much.. thx for the reply..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3053598
Share on other sites

FWIW, I've used the Nulon Pro Strength octane booster when I have had my cars down in Tassie a couple of years ago (it only had 95-octane at the time) and when I've raced them at Calder/Heathcote when its been warm and they both went well with no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3053638
Share on other sites

i could be wrong, but if there is an outage, then any shell servos that do have the V-racing will most probably have old stock and everyone knows that v-racing looses octain rating reasonable quickly with the passage of time.

does anyone know when it will be back... maybe i will give shell a call and find out.

EDIT: so this is what they said:

As of this morning (16 April, 2007) in Melb, V-Power Racing was available in:

Doncaster East

Ferntree Gully

Latrobe Terrace

Peninsula Gateway

St Albans

Tullamarine

Westgate South

Regards

Shell Technical

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3056974
Share on other sites

ziad i was thinking the same thing..

if there is a supply issue for weeks and some servos still have stock would that mean the old stock could be stale?????

i was told the new batch they are testing is due next week..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3058699
Share on other sites

pretty sure ferntree gully shell has it, right up the top of burwood hwy near autobarn

it did on Sat. filled up there, not many ppl buy from there and Vermont was out.

the whole old thing is kinda crap. My pings are under 20 with the stuff which is prob. old based on this thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164825-shell-v-racing/#findComment-3058864
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...