Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

The time has come to purchase a new vehicle to be my daily driver! After a year and half of owning my 89' 32gtst i've decided to upgrade as shes getting a bit old in the tooth and I also want a car with a bit more power! I should start by saying i've held my license for five years now.

Ill be spending around 30K and am having a bit of trouble working out what car i should get. I want to stick with performance cars and prefer them to have forced induction and six cylinders! :)

...i've posted a quick rundown of MY pros and cons of each.

32GTR - could get a pretty good example for around 25k upwards with some cash to spare, also look really tough but got the same problem with my car now - ie getting old, not to mention ive been sitting in a 32 for awhile now

33GTR - seen some top quality near stock ones for round 30k (beer barons?) but not a massive fan of the shape

34GTT - great because they are relatively new, also look tough as, may not be as quick as the GTR's...

S15 - they look ok with some larger rims and some nice paint, its not a skyline though and has an SR (this good or bad :P)

94' BMW M3 - i just recently thought about these after seeing one on the road, will get no trouble from police, looks pretty good and is reasonably quick from what ive heard, but - not of japanese origin... :P

BTW I'm quite happy to put up driving a car that softies other people may think is too stiff and race-car like for everyday driving - my 32 at the moment has rockhard kei office coilovers!

So! Any recommendations.....other cars i haven't thought of? Any cars i should definitely not buy?

Before anyone starts jumping up and down, I am aware of the servicing costs of these cars (GTR's in particular) and have the funds to do them regularly and properly.

I'm sure other people have looked at these cars in comparison before (with the exception maybe, of the M3) so id love to hear anyone who's gone through this before and what they ended up buying!

Cheers,

Matt

Edited by spin_psycle
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164866-what-car-to-purchase/
Share on other sites

after reading that, I WOULDNT recommend.....

1. A R33 GTR, because you dont like the shape of an R33

2. A S15, because, well, you said it, its not a Skyline!

3. a M3, because, its not Japanese, difficult and expensive to modify, followed closely by a frowning face.....

So i WOULD recommend......

1. A R32 GTR. They represent EXCELLENT value in the market, especially with so many to choose from

2. A R34 GT-t. Late model comforts, good daily driver, cheap to modify, easy to find in stock, un-thrashed and original condition.

My 2c.....

Edited by _8OO5TED_

I'd avoid the E36 M3 if its a model older than 1997, the 3L 5-speed versions are no way near as good as the updated 3.2L 6-speed ones. For a 1994 car its going to be abit expensive when it comes to fixing/replacing/servicing things.

Like the above said, I wouldn't choose the R33 because you've already stated you don't like the looks. So that leaves the R32, R34 or S15. IMO;

- if you want a car thats more performance oriented and don't mind a few squeaks and rattles or you don't have to worry about driving around a family then the GTR would be the good choice

- if you're after pure comfort and are happy with mild power then the GTT is a perfect car. Its a beautiful cruiser, very smooth, spacious and even though its going to be no where near the GTR in terms of performance its still got enough power to get you in trouble

- if you want the in between from the two above then looks like the S15 is your choice. Relatively new and just as smooth as the GTT, but don't expect too much in terms space, its abit cramped at the back. A few dollars spent on performance mods makes this car fly as its just so light and dynamically brilliant!

My best advice: go test drive a few different examples all the models you've narrowed down and see which you like best. :)

Why not mod your GTST?

Id go GTR or for another alternative what about a Chaser?

I went for a spin in a mates one on the weekend - Manual 1jz single turbo vvti with an exhaust and bit more boost :huh:

Very comfy, nice and smooth power delivery - 1jz have plenty of potential as well

Iv thought for a while I would love a 32 GTR but I cant see the point in getting out of a GTS-T from the same model. Obviously there are positives but when you are spending money on a new car, you want it to look and feel different, otherwise I think you might get over it quickly, especially if you may be over your car now,.

after reading that, I WOULDNT recommend.....

1. A R33 GTR, because you dont like the shape of an R33

2. A S15, because, well, you said it, its not a Skyline!

3. a M3, because, its not Japanese, difficult and expensive to modify, followed closely by a frowning face.....

So i WOULD recommend......

1. A R32 GTR. They represent EXCELLENT value in the market, especially with so many to choose from

2. A R34 GT-t. Late model comforts, good daily driver, cheap to modify, easy to find in stock, un-thrashed and original condition.

My 2c.....

Agreed

Another one...apples, oranges,bananas,cherries and carrots........

I do not know which one is best for me.?...ffs.....depends on your taste.......buy one that you will not get tired of looking at.

And make sure you know how to take care of her...like a female partner...some have habits or just high maintenance.

A 94 M3 is a bucket of shit. You want at least a 97 then you gotta pay through the nose to buy and maintain it. They are poor poor value.

+1

You really don't wanna know about German performance cars unless they have done low kays and have been maintained -meticulously- well. An M3 worth owning would cost heaps more than anything else on ur list.

dont hate the m3's f**ken!

mines a 95 328i convertible with a full m3 conversion (engine/box, running gear, dash, kit and EMS computer which is a hunk of shit because i cant find anyone to tune it!!).

but as for maintenance they are a bit of a bitch but still costs less than running an r32gtr... and the m3 wont need a rebuild after every few track days :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...