Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a new paint job?

hard to say really, the amount of money you put into mods your not gonna make it back when you re-sell it. your lucky if you just break even. thats why everyone takes em off and sell them seperately. also the amount of cars now for sale already have mods so the next thing if not first for people to compare is overall condition of car and engine.

Adding performance mods won't really increase value, well, at least not in a way that'll make a profit. The money you spend on the mod will not be recovered.

The reason being that people want to buy a car that has not been thrashed..... Usually because they want to be the one to thrash it.

If you're looking at increasing the value of the car, you can either make it more pristine, or you can go the dodgy and cover up faults.

You may get the money back on highflowing the turbo, because people generally don't like ceramic turbos, and it's only about 1.5K

other than that, replacing the leather boots and tidying up the interior will add value, also any body rust that can be removed.

It's really only neatening up, not really modding.

Having said all that, it's really depending on what people are willing to pay.

a new paint job?

Only if its in the factory colour, or you strip the car down and get everything painted (and even then you won't make a profit on it since that kind of paint job is going to cost you a fortune).

Otherwise, if potential buyers find the exterior paint a different colour to the interior paint (like the door sills, engine bay, etc) they'll assume its been resprayed due to an accident repair....and there goes your resale value.

I'm just wondering what parts or modifications can add value to the car?

A history. Some people will pay well over market for a car that's been owned by someone famous or something.

Or if the car becomes a cult classic. Look at the Takumi tax on AE86s - ever since Initial D came out the price for those nuggets have skyrocketed. Same with classic cars like MGBs, or old Monaros, XY GT Falcons, etc.

Aside from that, you've got buckleys of improving resale on a vehicle.

Simple rule when it comes to cars. Any money you spend on upgrading them is essentially lost money. So unless you do all the work yourself fitting up whatever you will certainly lose money.

Best bet is to get it clean & neat. If you have to spend a few hundred dollars on panel & paint then so be it. Beyond that & fixing any glaring faults, just leave it alone. That is pretty much what the car yards do - which tells you all you need to know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...