Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks! Great vid, car sounds like a monster, great driving

It seems like the motorkhana's are bloody hardwork!

they are in a gtr, so many turns lock to lock ( unlike a quick rack in an evo or sti) but good fun!!! :)

some vids i put on you tube, seems to play better

cheers russ

Thanks for putting those up! The driver in the second clip looks busier than a 14 year old one armed boy with a stack of Penthose magazines! Is there such a thing as a 'quick rack' conversion for a GT-R? I'd imagine you've looked into this already, judging by the work rate required in the tight stuff...

Is there no aftermarket steering racks for skylines?

Whats special about the reinmax oil pump gears giant? Where do you get them from?

reimax oil pump gears are stronger gears for the standard n1 oil pump, as we have broken the standard ones before .

and if any one knows of a quick rack for a gtr i would love to hear about it!!

cheers russ

giant,

Is your 4th gear dog engagement? It seems to be a lot quieter once shifted into that specific gear.

Nice lap too!

hi mate

yeah 4th gear is dog straight cut also, but it is one to one ratio so power goes straight through the mainshaft of the box and therefore doesnt make any noise.

cheers russ

giant,

Is your 4th gear dog engagement? It seems to be a lot quieter once shifted into that specific gear.

Nice lap too!

dog engagement isn't what make the whine noise. it's the tooth profile on the actual gears. helical cut gears are queit. straight cut whine like hell.

and as giant pointed out 1:1 means not as much whine.

Congrats to both you guys. Bloody good times guys and I look forward to your developments over the coming rounds of circuit battle.

I've watched that video over and over, working out where I go wrong around WP. Keep the vids coming guys.

for steering reduction cant u use areduction box inline with the colum like we do in speedway? they come in diffrent ratios

mate your a gem!! thanks for that

i will be looking into that setup, i would say they would have to be fairly robust to inuse in speedway?? correct?

cheers russ

reimax oil pump gears are stronger gears for the standard n1 oil pump, as we have broken the standard ones before .

and if any one knows of a quick rack for a gtr i would love to hear about it!!

cheers russ

cool. we use a place over in pearth for the oil pumps on the utes. that make them from steel and get rid of the sinterd factory ones. seems rb isnt the only motor to suffer from it hehe

cool. we use a place over in pearth for the oil pumps on the utes. that make them from steel and get rid of the sinterd factory ones. seems rb isnt the only motor to suffer from it hehe

hi mate

we use gts4 diffs which helped lower the ratio but didnt make the difference we were looking for.

cheers russ

p.s : and yeah your dead right, the reimax gears are higher grade steel replacing sintered as well.

do you race utes?

Hey Russ,

Awesome time, apologies for not mentioning it earlier. Will definitely catch up with you and Mark at NSW, Cam's car is now back together and running fine, some last minute wiring issues sorted, and the replacement suspension turned up, though the 17th at QR will be a shakedown on Cusco's instead of the good jobies.

as for Nathan's Rex...well that is a story for another time, hopefully he will get IN it and DRIVE it once before the Dutton...

Cheers

Neill

Any of you boys back for Rnd 2 next week?

The Autosalon guys contacted me today but the car still isn't ready - but I will try and make it for Round 3. They were keen on my bringing some other cars from Vic too if I can.

Spoke to Ben today and he said he'd come so will see if a few of the other boys are keen too. Be interesting to see how close to 1.04 we can all get.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...