Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

just curious to figure out if R32 GTS4 calipers were 4 pot or something else?

also, if a R32 GTR is 4 pot or what the difference is between the twp types.

and what the sizes are both rotors?

and what all is needed to upgrade a R32 GTS4 front brakes to a R32 GTR setup?

thanks

chris ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166584-r32-brakes-question/
Share on other sites

GTS4 is a 4-spot caliper, using the same pads as GT-R. The GT-R has cross-drilled rotors, which might be slightly larger diameter (check at dba.com.au). I have found that slotted replacements and braided brake lines provide more than adequate stopping power for a GTS4.

they are slightly different calipers, but use the same size pads. the GTR rotors are bigger, 296mm vs 280mm for the GTST ones. rears are 297mm GTR vs I don't know what for GTST (think they may be 297mm too).

if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors. that should be it,.

ok then, if the GTS4 already uses the same size pads as the GTR can i keep my standard GTS4 calipers but use the GTR rotors?

i am under the impression that the GTR rotors are bigger... or are they the same, just slotted? :rolleyes:

i am under the impression that the GTR rotors are bigger... or are they the same, just slotted?
I can deff confirm that the rear disc's are the same and the front's are larger in diameter (GTR compared to GTSt)

:P

Slotted no, drilled yes, well some were, either way front GTR disc's are different rears are the same

ok then, if the GTS4 already uses the same size pads as the GTR can i keep my standard GTS4 calipers but use the GTR rotors?

i am under the impression that the GTR rotors are bigger... or are they the same, just slotted? :thanks:

did you read any of the replies in your thread? I already said:

"if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors."

and:

"the GTR rotors are bigger, 296mm vs 280mm for the GTST ones."

sometimes I have to admit I wonder why reply at all...

believe that the GTR caliper is aluminium and GTSt and GTS4 is iron... could be wrong though!

Pretty sure my gtst calipers are alloy, when i filled the paint of the nissan logo it was quite soft and shinny like alloy. mind you this was 5 years ago so im not 100% either :thanks: Ill have to have a look at my car next time im at the shop.

they are slightly different calipers, but use the same size pads. the GTR rotors are bigger, 296mm vs 280mm for the GTST ones. rears are 297mm GTR vs I don't know what for GTST (think they may be 297mm too).

if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors. that should be it,.

Are you sure?

Im quite sure my GTR Rear rotors are smaller then my GTR front rotors

did you read any of the replies in your thread? I already said:

"if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors."

and:

"the GTR rotors are bigger, 296mm vs 280mm for the GTST ones."

sometimes I have to admit I wonder why reply at all...

yes i did see the replies

thanks very much for mentioning that... :)

all i wanted to know is,

since the GTR uses the same pads as the GTST, can i use my GTST calipers but throw in the GTR rotors?

and if it would work?

not too difficult to understand that is it?

since the GTR uses the same pads as the GTST, can i use my GTST calipers but throw in the GTR rotors?

and if it would work?

And the Baron had already said:
if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors

not too difficult to understand that is it?

yes i did see the replies

thanks very much for mentioning that... :P

all i wanted to know is,

since the GTR uses the same pads as the GTST, can i use my GTST calipers but throw in the GTR rotors?

and if it would work?

not too difficult to understand that is it?

not it's not difficult to understand at all.

is it difficult to understand this?:

"if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors." to read between the lines a bit here.

edit: lol the blind elk beat me too it.

edit2: yes i'm positive GTR front is 296mm GTR rear is 297mm.

edit3: i'm not trying to be a prick here, but you asked a question, i answered it. you read what you wanted to read and got narky.

all i am after is a simple yes or no to my question

i dont see that anywhere???

no :P

also blind_elk

i do understand that if i wanted a GTR set up i would need the GTR calipers and rotors

but... i dont neccesarily want a GTR set up.

i would rather just use GTR rotors and keep my GTST calipers, if that works

that is what i want to know...

i think chris is on the right track now.

for front brakes:

GTR rotor needs GTR caliper (296mm rotor)

GTST rotor needs GTST caliper (280mm rotor)

the both use the same size pad

for rear

both use the same pad

both use the same rotor (297mm) - yes rears are larger than front. trust me. it's true.

the point that everyone is trying to make is that a caliper is built for a certain disc diameter, it needs to sit at the correct distance from the hub for the disc you are using.

so....if you change discs you will need to change calipers as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...