Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

we all should not let this happen, no one should sell cheap. if all skyline owners didnt let them sell cheap, they could keep the market steady.

buyers cant buy a skyliner33gtst for 11k if no one will sell them one for 11k. if u catch my drift.

Maybe if cars didn't degrade with time.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Being 'in the country' doesn't help either, as it's a couple of hours drive from melb if people want to look at it.

it takes an hour and a half to get to dandenong from here. and that was with traffic lol.

we all should not let this happen, no one should sell cheap. if all skyline owners didnt let them sell cheap, they could keep the market steady.

but some people need/want the car gone quickly, so they drop the price to make it more attractive than others.

Good friend just picked up an S1, recent respray in XR6 purple, similar mods to yours, 18inch rims, teins ect, 5 speed, kays much the same ect ect.

$8500.. now thats clearly a wholesale price, however I still can't still your car selling for much more then $12kmax

I Dont think the market is down at all. More a natural depreciation thing as the cars get older the same as any other vehicle.

I bought mine as a largely unraped with basics mods car for 13 grand 3 months ago. Owner started at 17500 as did some others I was looking at. Most were willing to sell at or near the price I paid.

Skylines arent an appreciating asset, They are a car and within a short time they will be worth bugger all due simply to their age. Take a look at any similar performance sedans or coupes, turbo fords or hsv type holdens etc. the price of them after 10/15 years of use is probably worse than that of a line. All things considered skylines even as grey imports do as good as most out there in holding value.

i dont just have it advertised here. is on NS.com, carsales, carpoint, trading post, and the newspaper. its also on ebay at the moment too.

i wont be buying a skyline again thats for sure. depreciate $3k in 12 months? f**k that for a joke. and i know new cars lose out as soon as they leave the lot so stfu. but a used car? christ even commodores hold their price well till a new model comes out.

i dont just have it advertised here. is on NS.com, carsales, carpoint, trading post, and the newspaper. its also on ebay at the moment too.

i wont be buying a skyline again thats for sure. depreciate $3k in 12 months? f**k that for a joke. and i know new cars lose out as soon as they leave the lot so stfu. but a used car? christ even commodores hold their price well till a new model comes out.

Are you in for some shocks as you get older. Go buy a commie right now then go try and sell it tomorrow.

At the end of the day a car is really worth what someone is willing to pay ...... you are going to get a stupid offer/people trying their luck every now and then .... but if you get three or more in a row around the same figure ..... then maybe you should reconsider yor offer. If you are getting interest at the price its at ... then keep it at that. Throw the fishing line out there ..... if you don't catch anything - then it's time to consider a different type of bait.

and there's people who try to sell a multiple times damaged r34 gt-t for 45k

i swear that duche is living in a fantasy world

lets see how market value works out of him!

Edited by spin_psycle

Don't go lower than $13k. A top series II R33 will fetch $17k, but most will be $15-$16k.

Series 1 isn't as desirable as the series II so you have to factor this in. I'd say $13.5-$14k is a very reasonable price to be asking. Also, most ppl find examples that haven't been boosted, have aftermarket ecu's etc more desirable. Good luck. :PBJ:

i could have bought a 95 gtr for $65k back in 2000 but instead i bought my series 1 gts -t for $25k. now 95 gtr are gong for $25 plus k!!!

cars arent an investment, what did you think was going to happen!! :blink:

and yes, you can get 1995 series 1 r33 gtrs now a days for 25k - BUT try find an original (not resprayed, non abused and sensibly modified) example for $25k - you get exactly what you pay for and its almost guranteed you'll have to put another 10k into it soon after you get it to keep it running. i literally looked at around 40 before i found mine.

with this guys car here - it seems pretty well treated - and he deserves around the 13k mark, no less. series 1 gtst's in almost original condition like this can be hard to find now a days.

sure some dude on the thread said here that his mate bought one resprayed in xr6 purple for 8.5k, but dude - why was it resprayed? is it 2 half cuts? was it hail damaged? was the paint even prepped properly - how do you know it wont just peel in a few months time - too many unanswered questions and too many risks.

im sure a smart buyer will pick this one up eventually, but in the end - you seriously do get what you pay for!

Edited by 350z

hey man i know wat u mean... its hard to sell a 33 these days... im trying to sell my series 2, i paid 22k for it 2.5 years ago, which was cheap at the time, iv since spent 15k on it and now i cant even find someone that will pay $20k... i mean i have no idea wat is going on these days...

i dont just have it advertised here. is on NS.com, carsales, carpoint, trading post, and the newspaper. its also on ebay at the moment too.

i wont be buying a skyline again thats for sure. depreciate $3k in 12 months? f**k that for a joke. and i know new cars lose out as soon as they leave the lot so stfu. but a used car? christ even commodores hold their price well till a new model comes out.

i had a mitsubishi magna that lost 5.5k in 18 months , i dont think you really grasping the concept of a depreciating asset

in comparison to crap aussie cars like magnas and falcadores they actually have good depretiation . my brother has a vt v8 commodore and that thing has dived in the last year or 2 , worth 11-12k tops . some imports like manual 34 gtts , TT supras and nice 32 gtrs have been going up a bit in japan recently as there quite sought after.

I sold a 95 sedan for 14.5k a year and a bit after I bought it for 14k . i had spent a bit on it , fmic , xforce exhaust , powerfc but those sorts of mods dont really add much and there just for enjoyment more than anything so dont add 15k your buy price and think thats what its worth with 15k of mods.

problem i think was you might have asked a little to much originally , you can get really nice s1 94-95s here at dealers for 15-16k with a warranty , all just detailed , paintwork fixed , dents taken out , new tyres , brakes etc . so really you should have started at about 14. 13-14 is a good price for a price s1 if its in good condition which yours may or may not be . some peoples idea of good condition varies greatly with mine so....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...