Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1990 Model R32.

The Air Con does NOT get very cold at all. I assumed it will just need regassing.

However I then thought it may not be the problem because strangely the HEAT does NOT get hot at all, just slightly warm.

What i'm trying to find out is, if the air con needs regassing does it usualy affect the Heat at all??

OR am I experiencing a different Problem????

I also noticed when I click on that AMB button it reads a VERY high temp, Usualy between 34 and 45 Degrees.

What is this AMB reading telling me? Outside temp or Inside temp?? Either way it must be way off and that could be causing the problem??

Any help welcome!!

Hey mate, try holding down the 'Cold' button for about 10sec until a 'FC' comes up on screen. In this setting, it should ignore all the sensor readings and just go to the coldest it can get. If this is colder than it normally is on the coldest setting (ie. 18 degrees), it's your sensors playing up. Even try holding the 'Hot' button for about 10secs for the 'FH' to come up on screen. It should go to the warmest the system can go.

If all the temperatures are the same as they were before, it could be your blend door servo motor (it controls your hot/cold).

Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Adam

AMBient ie outside temp. The sensor is on the driver's side, just in front of the radiator, below the headlamp. Unless you are in FNQ or Darwin or Alice Springs, then the temp being shown is quite possibly in error. Run a diagnostic on the A/C (there's a thread somewhere about it).

If it needs regassing, then it probably wouldn't work at all, as it has a pressure switch to prevent operation when gas pressure is low.

My air con doesnt blow COLD and the heater only blows slightly WARM.

I enter the test mode and get 25 (In my shed at night)

Flashes 3 for a few seconds then 30. (Is 30 Right?)

Outside 35.5 , This is too high??

Inside 18,

air intake 17

refrigant temp 15.5

Any ideas? The only problem I can see is that 35 degrees outside is totaly wrong?

I would have thought that the Aircon Would probably more seeing as though it thinks its so hot outside?

My air con doesnt blow COLD and the heater only blows slightly WARM.

I enter the test mode and get 25 (In my shed at night)

Flashes 3 for a few seconds then 30. (Is 30 Right?)

Outside 35.5 , This is too high??

Inside 18,

air intake 17

refrigant temp 15.5

Any ideas? The only problem I can see is that 35 degrees outside is totaly wrong?

I would have thought that the Aircon Would probably more seeing as though it thinks its so hot outside?

Check that the outside air temperature sensor is working. It is in front of the radiator. Put a hairdrier or something on it to warm it up and/or use a thermocouple to check it is getting atleast a half decent air temp measurement.

Check that the outside air temperature sensor is working. It is in front of the radiator. Put a hairdrier or something on it to warm it up and/or use a thermocouple to check it is getting atleast a half decent air temp measurement.

The outside temp sensor must be faulty, as it says 35 degrees when its about 12 degrees at night.

I cannot locate the sensor? Is it the plug that links with a cable to the top of the A/C bottle?

Have you tried holding down either the hot or cold button for about 10secs? It should ignore the sensors and go full hot or full cold. Give that a try and let me know what happens.

I did try that, It didnt get any Hotter or Colder, than what is does on max or min temps.

The only thing that looks odd to me is the outside temp reading, but apparently thats not ment to affect the climate control at all? Appreciate your help

Hrmm. From the diagnostic you did you only got an error of no. 25 which is the sunload sensor. That shouldn't affect your temperature as far as I know. If it was your blend door servo motor, it should come up with the error no. 26, but it doesn't.

Did you hold down the hot or cold button until the letters 'FH' or 'FC' came up? As far as I'm aware, that should just ignore the sensor readings and blow as hot or cold depending on what you pressed. Also a stupid question but, did you let the engine warm up before you pressed the hot button? :O

If what I've suggested doesn't work, I'm not too sure what the problem could be because no error codes come up when you're doing the diagnosis.

Cheers,

Adam

Hrmm. From the diagnostic you did you only got an error of no. 25 which is the sunload sensor. That shouldn't affect your temperature as far as I know. If it was your blend door servo motor, it should come up with the error no. 26, but it doesn't.

Funny thing that diag, mine doesnt come up with no.26 although when i took it to an aircon mechanic they told me the blend door servo motor isnt working. The flap isnt moving and has been manually set to cold for me.

Just take your car to an aircon workshop and get a free inspection. They will tell you whats wrong in 5 minutes :P

Yeah, taking your car to a workshop would probably be the best thing.

Hey Pat, did you ever get that blend door servo motor of your's working? Thanks for your help again, winter's coming up and I'm glad the heater is working.

Cheers,

Adam

Yeah, taking your car to a workshop would probably be the best thing.

Hey Pat, did you ever get that blend door servo motor of your's working? Thanks for your help again, winter's coming up and I'm glad the heater is working.

Cheers,

Adam

Got a quote of $70 for a 2nd hand blend door servo motor from wrecker.

I got others things to spend money on :P

Hot air isnt worth $70 for me haha

Maybe i might have the same problem as you.

Ill need you to have a look at it, cause im too lazy :D

Cheers

Got a quote of $70 for a 2nd hand blend door servo motor from wrecker.

I got others things to spend money on :P

Hot air isnt worth $70 for me haha

Maybe i might have the same problem as you.

Ill need you to have a look at it, cause im too lazy :D

Cheers

If your problem is the same as mine, I wouldn't mind having a look. All that was wrong with my system was that the plug to the motor needed a shake. All was fixed after that. Biggest problem was finding out what was wrong in the first place.

From the sounds of things, your motor is busted. I don't know how to change that ;)

Cheers

hi,

my air con doesnt get cold,

but my heater gets fairly hot,

with the amb try slapping it when i did that the temp comes out working properly, i slaped it and punch it a few times lol,

but now it reads any temp,

let me know how you go.

  • 6 months later...
If your problem is the same as mine, I wouldn't mind having a look. All that was wrong with my system was that the plug to the motor needed a shake. All was fixed after that. Biggest problem was finding out what was wrong in the first place.

From the sounds of things, your motor is busted. I don't know how to change that ;)

Cheers

wanna meet up n can u fix mine :wave:

ill be ur fwenddddddddd

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...