Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hahah yeah i think dose is a pretty funny word lol but how it is related to flutter i do not know....

Why not make a 'dose pipe'?

I think that turbo cars that dont make any noise are just plain boring. >_<

*awaits flamage*

I think "dose pipe" is as funny as hell but it's an open forum and I'm sick of seeing new users hammered for asking questions or having different views to the majority :)

I dare you to join the minority group and see what happens to YOU :sorcerer:

Dose pipes, metal intake pipes, flutter.. it all means the same thing --- SSoooOTuTuTuTuTU!!

Who cares that you get defected for it, if you drive a skyline and a cop makes you pop your bonnet you get done for any stupid thing they feel like pickin on anyway...Mehhh!

PS-don't need to get off the topic and add other bs, relate your post to my original topic thats on page ONE!

.......................................Suuuukutukutukutututu....................

................

Translated as:

Suck you too, k, you too, k, you too, you too, you too............................... :/

I have one of those apexi metal intake pipes, I can confirm that the intake noise is louder than a plastic one. It is also more high pitched.

I tried blocking the BOV off, and yes full hektic flutter was abundant. But I wa not a fan of the overfueling, stalling and whatnot.

if it's being detrimental to my car, then the care factor is f*cking huge.

Couldn't think of anything worse that to intentially create mechanical problems to my car

What mechanical problems does a metal intake pipe create for your car?

he is talking about leaving the bov blocked off and lettting it surge its ass off every time the throttle body closes

it's arguable that letting the compressor surge its ass off every time causes damage, i agree

do a survey of 100 vl turbos with captain insano surge and ask them how many have done turbo rebuilds

.......................................Suuuukutukutukutututu....................

................

care factor. soo! soo! soOOkutukutukutututu...

:ermm:

So are you going to post anything of interest or a bunch of letters each time?

Pointless threads get sent to the wasteland, and this isnt far from it now

I run a 6 inch straight metal pipe off the turbo with a small filter on the end, I beleive it should "by theory" suck in more cool air than my last setup which was a pod filter fitted up near where the standard airbox was mounted. The piping to the pod was mostly steel apart from 1 90degree bend which was rubber. Im still yet to test to see if the straight pipe is more responsive because my clutch is slipping so I don't want to drive it on boost till I get a new one.

And yes it makes it sound exactly like a vl turbo, its "doses" are insanely loud, too loud sometimes when you just want to drive normally.

Oh and I run after market computer so no afm and blocked bov - hence the very loud flutters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...