Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After having issues with a 2nd hand GTR fuel pump I am looking at putting a new pump in.

I see that the bosch 910 is meant to be a good pump but is it an external pump?

I hear people mounting these intank where they are meant to be external??

I want to keep the pump in the tank

What is the main difference between external and external - is it more to do with the pickup? Or should an external not be submerged in fuel?

I see on the tomei pump they are mounted at the top of the stalk with a hose down to the filter sock.

So are the tomei considered internal or external?

I have heard the tomei can be a little noisy and pricey (I have already bought the seal aswell)

So choices are Walbro, Bosch 910, Bosch 040 or bosch 044.

I don't want to touch the wiring going to the top of the pump but obviously will need to change the connectors to the pump (that's fine).

many thanks

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169476-fuel-pump-in-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Bosch 910 pump is only rated to flow ~400hp. If thats all your after then throw a walbro in.

Walbro's are good pumps for low power levels but start pushing 450+hp and don't mess around and throw in either a Bosch 044 or Tomei/Nismo pump.

All bosch pumps can be mounted in tank with only slight modifications.

Generally....

Bosch 910, 200 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 220 rwkw

Bosch 975, 228 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 250 rwkw

Bosch 984, 228 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 250 rwkw

Bosch 040, 235 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 260 rwkw

Bosch 044, 330 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 360 rwkw

'Apparently' running a check valve on the 044 helps prevent cavitation and keep it quiet.

Tomei is further up the stem but still an 'in tank' pump.

External pumps are exactly that, the pump is outside the tank. ie, in some cases you can pop the boot and see it strapped to a wall somewhere.

People have been having issues with 044's so be aware of that. Not everyone, just some.

Some peeps recommend steering clear of Walbros' too (where are you R31Nismoid ?) :teehee:

I know people have different budgets so it's really up to you.

But for me the $340 delivered for the Tomei was the best option.

Beats all of the above for flow rates and is already designed to slot straight in.

You on the Central Coast?

I can let you have a listen if you like

Thanks Birnie but I'm down in Sydney.

The tomei is a good thing by the sounds of it but was exploring other options for noise and cost reasons.

Yeah, some people say walbro will be good up to 250rwkw others have had trouble.

I would like a pump that I can attach the stock sock to. It sounds like people have used the 910 pump inside the tank.

The 040 pump doesn't really have a pick up on it so people just say they move the pump lower down.

I thought if I could get a pump that you can fit a hose to (still mounting internally) then I could fit the stock sock lower down to the end of the hose - similar to the tomei setup..

Cheers

Just a personal experience on this topic, not sure if your planning on doing the work yourself, or if your not as much of a muppet as me, i went down the 910 path a few months ago to support some minor mods (figured 040 would be overkill for my needs) but mainly for piece of mind for future mods (figured 040 would be overkill for my needs), you have to straighen the bottom the pump cradle to fit the 910 intank and saw off bout 2inch's off the return pipe so it woudl fit (there is a DIY for a 040, similar pump) make sure you can source a fuel sock before you buy try the install, i think it needs to be I.Dia 14mm. The monkeys at bursons couldn't find me one without a part number, or any fuel sock for that matter, i ended up burning the pump out after running it for 2 weeks without a sock, ran the tank below the pickup of the pump one nite, (within 5km of fuel light coming on) couldn't get the car started again after refilling the tank. I had the intake of the 910 less than 12mm off the bottom of the tank. Also the return on the 910 is too big for standard hose diameter to fit easily over, you will have to compromise between too loose in the tank or too tight on the pump (don't force a too small hose onto the outlet, the inside sheath of the hose might twist,whilst still looking fine on the outside). Long story short, had my fuel pump in and out 5 times over a space of a few weeks, i bought my 910 for $90 on ebay brand new, ended up buying a Denso pump from a supra (brand new) with a sock and all connections of ebay for $200ish, they are supposed to flow aswell or better than 040, fit into the pump cradle without any modifications, don't make any noise and are more resilient to running low/dry then bosch pumps, i read heaps of threads before doing the install myself, wish i never went down the bosch path.

I've heard a few good things about the densos. Have you got yours in all working now. Thanks for your long post :huh: Sounds like you went through some pain..

Was it brand new off ebay? Did it come from the US?

What did you search via a part no.?

Cheers

Edited by benl1981

Will check the part no. on the box when i get home if i still have it, denso 300l/hr, it was from http://stores.ebay.com.au/PERFORMANCE-WORLD-STORE, i checked they don't have any on there at the moment but mayb email them, not sure if any1 else has purchased from this store, they are in melb, very good service. They sell lots of other ones aswell (mayb a maxima VG30 pump might be a better option to 910 at same price). People might swear by bosch pumps but they aren't the be all and end all if your not chasing super power figures, i personally know 2 other cases with '040's that have ran their cars low/dry with these pumps and ceased (much more of a prick to change a pump on a s14), i think mayb has something to do with their design that allows them to flow high rates at low pressures but use the fuel to cool them down, if they run dry something gets hot and fuses to something else (sorry for lack of technical lingo). Mayb thats why they are so bulky. The 910 i had was mounted with rubber and without, it didn't make a difference to the noise, you couldn't hear it either way. I had to borrow an interim pump whilst the denso arrived, it looked like a maxima pump (had a funny thing sticking out of the top) it was really noisy and fluctuated when you revved the car off idle, (sounded tough), it was mounted exactly the same position as stock in a mates car for 2-3years before i had to borrow it.

One thing i highly recommend is if you are doing it yourself put the O-ring in the freezer like it says in the DIY section, i got lazy on the third of fourth time i had the pump out and let it dry out, it stretched and i had to cut it to make it fit, it started venting fumes through the cabin, drove round like that for 2 weeks before i could get down to nissan to buy a new one (only $5).

be really careful on the flow rates - Some are rated at 42psi, and some are rated at 73psi.

Just remember that the R33 has a 42psi rail, and then add your boost on top of that. I run 18psi so that means my pump needed to push 60psi.

I originally had a walboro 255lph pump, and yeah it was 255lph....at 40psi! As soon as the pump goes from 60psi - 70psi it almost halves in flow.

I now have a Nismo 275lph pump on order.

so does that mean my 33 isnt getting enough flow if im running 10psi on my stock pump??? ive just got basic mods and hopefully puching out around 180rwkw. should i be fine, or should i get an aftermarket pump? im only wanting around 200rwkw for now, and for a while...

thanks

jake

well, 200rwkw is fine on the stock pump but I'd be changing it anyway. The stock pump is old, and you are only putting strain on it, and if it dies, the engine goes BOOM!.

hehe

Nismo drop in replacements are abut $400 from nengun. Its completely factory fitting, no mucking around what so ever.

Edited by The Mafia
  • 1 month later...
But for me the $340 delivered for the Tomei was the best option.

Where did you get your Tomei for $340 inc delivery? Nengun is $370 at the moment.

From all the threads ive read, Nismo and Tomei are on par with each other. Can anyone name a reason why one is more preferable than the other?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...