Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got a full service done for my r33 gtr and now i feel that it has lost power and response.

So basically i got all the oils changed, fuel filter, spark plugs, etc.

The boost seems to be normal and all but there is a noticeable power loss right through the rev range. The only thing it could be is the spark plugs?? But its really smooth. Any ideas???

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169546-loss-of-power-after-service/
Share on other sites

Agreed, timing, see if they adjusted the handbrake, its a long shot, but not impossible.

Well i did ask him to check my timing belt, but my car is stock standard? When you remove the cover can u adjust the timing??

Well i did ask him to check my timing belt, but my car is stock standard? When you remove the cover can u adjust the timing??

They remove the crank angle sensor to check the belt. So yes if they didnt put it back in the original spot your timing has been changed.

When they take the cover off, they have to adjust the timing, check the CAS at the front of the exhaust can, and see if the mounting bolt witness marks from where it used to be are different to where it is now bolte.ie: it has been rotated(probably clockwise)from where it previously was.

If they used a much thicker and/or cheaper oil than what was in it before that could be the answer, but i'd guess spark plugs are more likely to be the culprit. Find out what plugs and what oil they used, and post it up.

Well i did ask him to check my timing belt, but my car is stock standard? When you remove the cover can u adjust the timing??

Yes.. If they haven't dropped a timing light on it and guessed where it was prior it may very well be running either less or more ignition.

Hmm so I asked my mechanic today if he touched the CAS he said no. And he said he put in the same type of platinum spark plugs i had in before. And he reckons it feels good and there is nothing wrong with it. But then sometimes when i drive it, it does feels good and other times it doesnt feel as quick. Maybe its just me paranoid! But I am pretty sure its lost a bit of response down low although the top end feels the same.

Could it be the spark plugs not gapped correctly? But he was saying that it would run like crap if they werent gapped properly.

Is it possible to adjust the ignition timing without a dyno to give bit better response without damaging my motor?

Or maybe i should just accept the fact that its stock standard and the exhaust is restricting it lol.

Sounds like a bit of paranoia creeping in haha :)

Although, i would be using just a normal set of coppers gapped @ 1.1 for a stock GTR

Plati, Iridi etc. Just a waste of coin. The good ole coppers for less than $20 a set win hands down everytime.

- You might have a slightly dirty AFM, or loose perhaps.

- Maybe the coils dont have a connector on firmly, or similar across the other connectors

- A cooler pipe might have a slight leak, although it doesnt sound like that.

Basically, anything he needed to remove/touch for a service you need to follow and have that checked.

Its just retracing the parts he removed as one of them possibly isnt sitting right/the way it should

Sounds like a bit of paranoia creeping in haha :)

Although, i would be using just a normal set of coppers gapped @ 1.1 for a stock GTR

Plati, Iridi etc. Just a waste of coin. The good ole coppers for less than $20 a set win hands down everytime.

- You might have a slightly dirty AFM, or loose perhaps.

- Maybe the coils dont have a connector on firmly, or similar across the other connectors

- A cooler pipe might have a slight leak, although it doesnt sound like that.

Basically, anything he needed to remove/touch for a service you need to follow and have that checked.

Its just retracing the parts he removed as one of them possibly isnt sitting right/the way it should

Will coppers make that much difference? I am planning to slap an exhaust on it soon.

Well I seem to get good boost response according to the stock guage, full boost a bit before or on 3k rpm i think so i dont think cooler pipe would be loose?

I will have a look at my afm, as he did remove my airbox and cleaned my panel filter.

Coils havent checked but will open it up and have a look.

so did he actually check your timing belt? Cause if he says he checked your timing belt and didnt touch the cas hes talking bs. Pop your hood and have a quick look at the cas, it has three bolts going through it. If you can see marks where the bolts used to be before then you know that it hasnt been set back in its original postion and if hes retarded the timing abit you will notice a difference. Ask him to put a timing light on your car and see what it is set at, if he knows what he is doing it will take less than a minute to do.

In saying that, people get paranoid when they hand their car to other people and start "noticing" things that they did see before haha

Will coppers make that much difference? I am planning to slap an exhaust on it soon.

Well I seem to get good boost response according to the stock guage, full boost a bit before or on 3k rpm i think so i dont think cooler pipe would be loose?

I will have a look at my afm, as he did remove my airbox and cleaned my panel filter.

Coils havent checked but will open it up and have a look.

also how did he clean your filter? is it a k&n filter that he has re-oiled? The oil used on those filters can affect our afms..

also how did he clean your filter? is it a k&n filter that he has re-oiled? The oil used on those filters can affect our afms..

He said he didnt open it up to check my belt. so that hasnt changed at all. I have got a HKS air filter i just had a look and it looks clean and the afm looks good too. The only thing is the spark plugs! because normally i feel the most power come in around 4000rpm and levels out a bit at higher rpms, but now it just feels pretty linear all the way through without the sudden power kick in. Had to explain!

He said he didnt open it up to check my belt. so that hasnt changed at all. I have got a HKS air filter i just had a look and it looks clean and the afm looks good too. The only thing is the spark plugs! because normally i feel the most power come in around 4000rpm and levels out a bit at higher rpms, but now it just feels pretty linear all the way through without the sudden power kick in. Had to explain!

Wild thought - you said AFM (singular) looks ok. You have got 2. If one is playing up the airflow reading to the ECU will be low (averages both).

Or maybe a bit of paranoia - now just go check under the bed.

I always get the same feeling when I get my car serviced. Not just the skyline, but every car I have had. It's weird, the car feels smoother and nicer but slightly slower. I ended up deciding it was all in my mind. it is interesting that you say the same thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...