Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide

Snowman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

ok...lets let the lucas pads debate go...this thread is about all brake pads not just one brand. I think any reader is clear that there has been some disagreement about these pads

  • Replies 847
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

Intima now all fully stocked on Nissan pads hit me up if you need Elig or Intima brake pads (SAU discounts always apply).

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

A bit of a thread bump, so we all know I sell brake pads, rotors, etc. on the side and yes I sneakily do it here on SAU to help members and always get cheeky comments from @niZmO_Man to be a forum spo

Hadouken
Hadouken

This opinion is to bias due to brake dust in vagina

Posted Images

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I recommend not trying to find pads that come with shims - I've never seen any that do :D

bendix ultimate for street use. they are cheap and perform well. but they suck for dust so I hope you have dark rims

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've used Lucas, Ferodo DS2500, Ferodo Premium and Project Mu NS while trying to find good street pads for an R32 GTR. In particular I was looking for good initial bite and overall feel. Ferodo Premium was awful, Lucas better but still didn't like them much, and while I liked the Ferodo 2500 because I knew they woud stop when I stood on the pedal, they lacked the initial bite I was looking for. The Projec Mu was my pick, great initial bite and sensitivity, and good feel. Price was a pleasant surprise too but can't remember exactly how much from Racer Industries in Qld. Can't comment on dust yet but hey, if a GT3/Lambo /F430 looks good with blackened front rims so does my car...

Cheers

Edited by Scooby
MP_R33 Mentor

MP_R33

Posted
Posted
I recommend not trying to find pads that come with shims - I've never seen any that do :(

bendix ultimate for street use. they are cheap and perform well. but they suck for dust so I hope you have dark rims

I need the shims because my car doesn't have any anti squeal shims and squeals every time i get on the brakes REALLY BAD

skyguy61 Collaborator

skyguy61

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just saw this topic after i put up my Bendix STR pads up for sale as i wont be hitting the track any time soon, I used them only for the track (wakefield,eastern creek) at almost $500 for front and rears i thought using them for the street was overkill, I can say that they were awesome and didnt fade at all and i didnt drive easy on them i did a 1.15 at wakefield first time there with 191kws at the rears, the pedel feel was good and the bite was very predictable. I use Lucas pads for the street and i find them very good but i would not consider using them on the track in a skyline...however for a lighter vehicle like a wrx or evo they probably would be okay.cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
ray32 Collaborator

ray32

Posted
Posted

I'm looking at getting the RDA rotors in the group buy for my 32 gtst and wanted to get new pads while I'm at it.

The EBC pads with the group buy are a bit more pricey than what I was expecting (however the rotors are priced awesomely!)

My car is mainly for street use/daily, probably won't see a track. It does once in a blue moon gets pushed a bit on twisties but that's not often.

So with that in mind I'm thinking the Lucas pads are great bang for buck pads, what do you guys think?

gslrallysport Experienced

gslrallysport

Posted
Posted
My car is mainly for street use/daily, probably won't see a track. It does once in a blue moon gets pushed a bit on twisties but that's not often.

So with that in mind I'm thinking the Lucas pads are great bang for buck pads, what do you guys think?

Yep, either Lucas or QFM HPX. Very similar pad, biggest difference would be the HPX is a low dust pad, where as the Lucas can get quite dusty. Either pad, with slotted rotors, and MORE IMPORTANTLY good fluid, will do the job. We ran Lucas in the rally car and road car for years and they were (still are) an excellent pad, but have switched to the HPX in my road car as they're probably a better all round pad without losing any of the performance of the Lucas, and at a similar price if you get the rears half price.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/No...in-t241385.html

  • 2 weeks later...
Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Has anyone tried the Project Mu NS pads?

Supposedly rated to 400 degrees, there's a guy on ns.com selling fronts for $165 and should be less dusty than ultimates... Can anyone say if they're any better than Ultimates? or the Bendix "street road track" pads?

link: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=300808

I run them in my other sports car, seem ok. no dust and seem to grip up when cold.

I ended up getting the NS pads for my S15 but only for the front (rears are still stock). I can say that they're much better than stock as far as fade goes. The stock ones would go off after a few hard brake applications on a downhill run eg Mt Hotham. These remained constant and only got a little squealy and smelly towards the end. They've got more initial bite on the street and don't squeal in normal driving, but they do put out a bit of dust - no where near as much as Bendix Ultimates but i wouldn't call them dust free.

Does anyone know how they would compare to the QFM HPX pads or A1RM? The prices on the QFM are much better for starters...

  • 2 weeks later...
khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
I ended up getting the NS pads for my S15 but only for the front (rears are still stock). I can say that they're much better than stock as far as fade goes. The stock ones would go off after a few hard brake applications on a downhill run eg Mt Hotham. These remained constant and only got a little squealy and smelly towards the end. They've got more initial bite on the street and don't squeal in normal driving, but they do put out a bit of dust - no where near as much as Bendix Ultimates but i wouldn't call them dust free.

Does anyone know how they would compare to the QFM HPX pads or A1RM? The prices on the QFM are much better for starters...

Nice work. Thats exactly what I have found. I'm running this model in my FTO and they seem great overall.

I have been running the B-SPECs in my R33 on the track a bit with good results also.

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Nice work. Thats exactly what I have found. I'm running this model in my FTO and they seem great overall.

I have been running the B-SPECs in my R33 on the track a bit with good results also.

have you used the B-specs much on the street? are they squeaky at all? i'm guessing the dust still can't be as bad as the Ultimates...?

i'm considering putting them on my 32 which will see mostly street use/touge driving.

oh, and are you using the B-specs on the rears too?

  • 3 weeks later...
code blue Enthusiast

code blue

Posted
Posted
My front Qfm's lasted 4 track days and nearly 12 months of daily duties. I went with same pad again. ;)

The new pads (K750) were dead after only 2.5 track days not a daily anymore either. :P

  • 3 weeks later...
brett_32i Explorer

brett_32i

Posted
Posted

i just purchased qfm pads from brakes plus.

not sure if they are the hpx, brakes plus call them premium plus. $130

they go in tonight so we will see if they are as good as they say.

they reckon they are good for about 10 hot laps, excellent rotor wear, and bugger all dust.

gslrallysport Experienced

gslrallysport

Posted
Posted
i just purchased qfm pads from brakes plus.

not sure if they are the hpx, brakes plus call them premium plus. $130

How much?!?!?! For $130, I'd seriously hope they're something similar to the A1RM, not the HPX, but judging by this:

http://www.brakesplus.com.au/index.php?id=59

I'd definitely say they're a HPX pad in a different box...

  • 4 weeks later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Somehow I've missed this thread for a while....

Anyway, just wanted to add that I've been using the Hawk HT60 pads in the race car and they have been excellent (really sorted out the confidence issue I had with the old pads). In production cars we have to run standard brakes (brembos) and these pads have been so good the brakes are almost acceptable. They used to be "oh shit I'm going to die" after 5 laps so this is a very good thing.

I am about to buy my second set because we are allowed to run larger calipers as long as they stil have 4 pistons.

And the old pads are for sale, if anyone wants to get the best out of the factory brembos these are an excellent choice. Race only use they do not work from cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Predator1
      Brake lights staying on.

      By Predator1 · Posted

      +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • Chi-Town
      Factory oil temp sensor in a RS4V without gauges?

      By Chi-Town · Posted

      This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • GTSBoy
      Starting again

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
×
×
  • Create New...