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The other cause of noise can be the pad grabbing on the rotor slot where the machining tollerances aren't very high (ala RDA which uses a diamond grind versus DBA's CNC). If you're running RDA (or any of the cheap Chinese trade servicing rotors that get made into slotted) try cutting a small shamfer on the leading edge of the pad (ie. the side of the pad that contacts the rotor slot first).

Funny, I'm using the DBA 4000s with HPX pads and haven't had any issues with noise.

They're relatively dusty, which sucks if you have white wheels, but they've been great.

  • Like 1

As you've proven, the cheaper rotors are machined to a lesser tolerance, so are more likely to be the cause of noise! ;)

this could be it, also thank you for sending me those anti squeal shims.

I must say im quite impressed with gsl rally's co operation in this matter. It has changed my mind from not wanting to buy from them again to almost certainly going with them if I need anything else. others take note - This is how customer service is done.

Cheers

Edited by tripsteady

That shouldn't happen anymore! We've now got some staff that will never venture to a rally, so should always be someone here manning the fort. Also we about to open an Adelaide branch, which will handle inquiries also and be completely separate to the rally team, so again, distancing our motorsport activities from our parts store! ;)

Still, its good to know we actually run on alot of what we promote!

  • 2 weeks later...

just an update , i put the anti squeal shims on the back pads only(as a user above pointed out that he replaced the pads int he rear and that solved the problem) The squeal is basically gone unless I drive very very hard. Very happy now :) Thanks gsl rally !

  • 2 weeks later...

Afternoon,

I'm doing a bit of research on some brake pads, I have an R32 GTST that is a weekender and will be seeing some drift days. I want to know what pads to run (mainly on the rear, to give good hand brake lock up). A concern I have is that pads that require heat to work well, I presume the odd handbrake in drifting isn't going to heat the pad well, is that right? So basically I'm asking what pads someone can recommend especially if they are in a similar situation (drifting a skyline).

If you need more info let me know, cheers

Skylines use a drum handbrake system that runs separate to the braking that the rear caliper does, and in doing so, do not use a brake "pad" per se.

To get the good lockups that you want, Project Mu make some brake shoes for the Skyline that should fit your needs nicely.

Skylines use a drum handbrake system that runs separate to the braking that the rear caliper does, and in doing so, do not use a brake "pad" per se.

To get the good lockups that you want, Project Mu make some brake shoes for the Skyline that should fit your needs nicely.

So the handbrake doesn't use the rear caliper?

Edit: so they basically have a drum set-up (like on old cars) and a caliper and rotor? So the caliper and rotor is used for braking whereas the drum is used for the handbrake?

Edited by Philr32

Answer: Yes, the handbrake setup on skylines (R32 onwards) is separate to the brakes which use a caliper and rotor.

Project Mu handbrake shoes are the go. Look up the sponsors here on SAU.

Lastly, this is the wrong thread to be asking questions like this ;)

  • 4 weeks later...

Are Ferodo DS2500 still a good pad for a track oriented car? They seem to have a good heat range, my car is used for drifting mainly with a hydraulic handbrake, but the car still gets driven on the street (to/from track) and some mountain driving / general track (grip) days.

Are Ferodo DS2500 still a good pad for a track oriented car? They seem to have a good heat range, my car is used for drifting mainly with a hydraulic handbrake, but the car still gets driven on the street (to/from track) and some mountain driving / general track (grip) days.

DS2500 is good for a street car that sometimes get used on the track. Sounds like you are using your car on track and for hard driving most of the time so I would recommend going with a track only pad rather than something like DS2500.

Ah I see, thank you for your help. Yep, car is 95% track, or if it's not on the track it's in the mountains anyway. What about QFM A1RM?

No probs, I have not used the A1RM myself but there is heaps of feedback on them on here. For track only pads I have used Hawk HT-10, DTC-60 and DTC-70, world of difference compared to street/track pads like the DS2500. 2500s are a good compromise pad which can still take a decent amount of abuse but nothing compared to a track pad.

In case you go for Hawks, I get them from here http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ since last I checked they are heaps cheaper than any local supplier.

When being used in competition, not very. We used the same 4000 series rotors for a season and a half, and they still had good thickness left. If it's being used as street pad only, it'll go through rotors fairly quickly.

Can someone please aware me of this statement?

For a track pad using it on the street does it chew through rotors becuase:

a. The amount of km's you do driving on the street

b. Because of the harshness of the pad it eats into the rotor when not up to temp

c. both a & b

d. None of the above

I'm just asking as I am about to use a track only pad for a daily that I will track once a month

Can someone please aware me of this statement?

For a track pad using it on the street does it chew through rotors becuase:

a. The amount of km's you do driving on the street

b. Because of the harshness of the pad it eats into the rotor when not up to temp

c. both a & b

d. None of the above

I'm just asking as I am about to use a track only pad for a daily that I will track once a month

Its mainly due to b - harshness when not up to temp.

You will tend to do that anyway since the noise from most track pads is so bad you try and avoid braking in general haha.

Intradasting...I better use my gears to slow me up more at the traffic lights then :D

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