Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The other cause of noise can be the pad grabbing on the rotor slot where the machining tollerances aren't very high (ala RDA which uses a diamond grind versus DBA's CNC). If you're running RDA (or any of the cheap Chinese trade servicing rotors that get made into slotted) try cutting a small shamfer on the leading edge of the pad (ie. the side of the pad that contacts the rotor slot first).

Funny, I'm using the DBA 4000s with HPX pads and haven't had any issues with noise.

They're relatively dusty, which sucks if you have white wheels, but they've been great.

  • Like 1

As you've proven, the cheaper rotors are machined to a lesser tolerance, so are more likely to be the cause of noise! ;)

this could be it, also thank you for sending me those anti squeal shims.

I must say im quite impressed with gsl rally's co operation in this matter. It has changed my mind from not wanting to buy from them again to almost certainly going with them if I need anything else. others take note - This is how customer service is done.

Cheers

Edited by tripsteady

That shouldn't happen anymore! We've now got some staff that will never venture to a rally, so should always be someone here manning the fort. Also we about to open an Adelaide branch, which will handle inquiries also and be completely separate to the rally team, so again, distancing our motorsport activities from our parts store! ;)

Still, its good to know we actually run on alot of what we promote!

  • 2 weeks later...

just an update , i put the anti squeal shims on the back pads only(as a user above pointed out that he replaced the pads int he rear and that solved the problem) The squeal is basically gone unless I drive very very hard. Very happy now :) Thanks gsl rally !

  • 2 weeks later...

Afternoon,

I'm doing a bit of research on some brake pads, I have an R32 GTST that is a weekender and will be seeing some drift days. I want to know what pads to run (mainly on the rear, to give good hand brake lock up). A concern I have is that pads that require heat to work well, I presume the odd handbrake in drifting isn't going to heat the pad well, is that right? So basically I'm asking what pads someone can recommend especially if they are in a similar situation (drifting a skyline).

If you need more info let me know, cheers

Skylines use a drum handbrake system that runs separate to the braking that the rear caliper does, and in doing so, do not use a brake "pad" per se.

To get the good lockups that you want, Project Mu make some brake shoes for the Skyline that should fit your needs nicely.

Skylines use a drum handbrake system that runs separate to the braking that the rear caliper does, and in doing so, do not use a brake "pad" per se.

To get the good lockups that you want, Project Mu make some brake shoes for the Skyline that should fit your needs nicely.

So the handbrake doesn't use the rear caliper?

Edit: so they basically have a drum set-up (like on old cars) and a caliper and rotor? So the caliper and rotor is used for braking whereas the drum is used for the handbrake?

Edited by Philr32

Answer: Yes, the handbrake setup on skylines (R32 onwards) is separate to the brakes which use a caliper and rotor.

Project Mu handbrake shoes are the go. Look up the sponsors here on SAU.

Lastly, this is the wrong thread to be asking questions like this ;)

  • 4 weeks later...

Are Ferodo DS2500 still a good pad for a track oriented car? They seem to have a good heat range, my car is used for drifting mainly with a hydraulic handbrake, but the car still gets driven on the street (to/from track) and some mountain driving / general track (grip) days.

Are Ferodo DS2500 still a good pad for a track oriented car? They seem to have a good heat range, my car is used for drifting mainly with a hydraulic handbrake, but the car still gets driven on the street (to/from track) and some mountain driving / general track (grip) days.

DS2500 is good for a street car that sometimes get used on the track. Sounds like you are using your car on track and for hard driving most of the time so I would recommend going with a track only pad rather than something like DS2500.

Ah I see, thank you for your help. Yep, car is 95% track, or if it's not on the track it's in the mountains anyway. What about QFM A1RM?

No probs, I have not used the A1RM myself but there is heaps of feedback on them on here. For track only pads I have used Hawk HT-10, DTC-60 and DTC-70, world of difference compared to street/track pads like the DS2500. 2500s are a good compromise pad which can still take a decent amount of abuse but nothing compared to a track pad.

In case you go for Hawks, I get them from here http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ since last I checked they are heaps cheaper than any local supplier.

When being used in competition, not very. We used the same 4000 series rotors for a season and a half, and they still had good thickness left. If it's being used as street pad only, it'll go through rotors fairly quickly.

Can someone please aware me of this statement?

For a track pad using it on the street does it chew through rotors becuase:

a. The amount of km's you do driving on the street

b. Because of the harshness of the pad it eats into the rotor when not up to temp

c. both a & b

d. None of the above

I'm just asking as I am about to use a track only pad for a daily that I will track once a month

Can someone please aware me of this statement?

For a track pad using it on the street does it chew through rotors becuase:

a. The amount of km's you do driving on the street

b. Because of the harshness of the pad it eats into the rotor when not up to temp

c. both a & b

d. None of the above

I'm just asking as I am about to use a track only pad for a daily that I will track once a month

Its mainly due to b - harshness when not up to temp.

You will tend to do that anyway since the noise from most track pads is so bad you try and avoid braking in general haha.

Intradasting...I better use my gears to slow me up more at the traffic lights then :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...