Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

keep the revs under 4k, and as you take off a standing start, accelerate a bit quick (not too quick) to around 30km/h so the rings bed in properly before the 1000km or 1500km is up.

also, try not to hold it at a constant rev, i.e. highway driving.

dont sit in the same gear all the time at same speed

i.e. sit in 2nd at 50, sit in 4th at 50 - keep changing gears but not giving it a boot full

yeh take it easy for the first 500kms then slowly increase your revs and boost (well keep this at 7psi). Make sure you dont just drive at the one speed either vary it upto 80kms/hr then once you hit bout 750kms start to increase you top speed aswell.

ok i will do my best to drive it like that then

what about boost levels mine will only kick in at like 4000 anyway so do i drive it off boost untill its run in?

or do i give it a litlle say to like 5000 every now ang again??

Baby the car for the firt 100-200 km, changing early before boost. after that change enigne oil and filter, might wanna buy a filter magnet to trap shavings incase there are some. for the 200-500 km bring the car up to revs a little quiker then u used to but dont fang the car into boost. at 500 km change the oil and filter again. after this drive till about 80-90 km/h in the 5th gear. and when the enigne is at operating temps and you see a free pass, gear down hard and give her evrything she's got pull about 2 gears on full song after that decellarate and take you 80km/h grandpa drive, dont fang it too often, continue till 1000km but keep the boost low at about 8-9psi. at the 1000km mark youll be changing oil and filter for the last time now its time for the power run in, get it tuned for full power and your desired boost level, and now where the oppertunity presents itself give her all she has, when you overtake dont hesitate to bring her on full song, continue to about 1500 kms and your done with runnin in the engine. the frequent oil changes i do because the micro metal shavings that are normal to exist in a new-rebuilt engine have been known to stuff up bearings. this procedure has worked for me till now and ive run in 2 RB's and 10-12 haulpack engines

Anthony.

Just bed the rings in on the dyno (the tuner/motor builder will know what to do)

Then tune it up. Simple as that.

IMO based on the countless motors ive seen done this way, "running in" a motor is frankly a load of crap. :)

If the motor is built right, just get straight up it. All the RB26/25's you'll see running around any of the track days are all done like this, all run perfectly fine.

Thats the true test.

yeah the main reason for running in an engine is to make sure the new rings bed into the honed cylinder walls properly. so basicly by varying the speed at which the engine runs places different loads on the rings compared to just sitting at one speed with not much load as this will glaze ur cylinders. so if ur really keen take it for a mountain run but still keep the revs to around max 4 grand or so. this loads up the rings nicely as ur constantly on and off the throttle as well as loading and un loading the rings.

ffs, the people who say baby it for the first 200 kms or so have no clue, this is the most crucial period for the rings to bed in, you risk glazing the bores or not getting a propper seal if you dont load up the motor straight away, likewise you should avoid idling and sitting on constant RPM.

best way to run the motor in is to use stock boost settings, and drive it hard through hills, that way the motor see's a varying rev and load range. If the motor breaks during this period, its a shit rebuild :)

Anthony.

Just bed the rings in on the dyno (the tuner/motor builder will know what to do)

Then tune it up. Simple as that.

IMO based on the countless motors ive seen done this way, "running in" a motor is frankly a load of crap. :)

If the motor is built right, just get straight up it. All the RB26/25's you'll see running around any of the track days are all done like this, all run perfectly fine.

Thats the true test.

+1

Just bit of load at low/med revs to get gas pressure behind the rings so they run a bit more tension against the bores to bed them in . No rocket science , I like SK's idea of using a cheap garden variety Castrol oil without the friction modifiers to help it along .

Thrashers be warned , because everything has been apart there will always be a slight chance something may leak and if an oil/water hose connection goes in a big way its the expensive engine that may need another rebuild . Also if some mechanical thing works loose you may not hear it before it goes bang at high revs . Oopsh .

Your engine - your money - your call .

Cheers A .

just to warn you guys who think thrashing is the way to go:

i spent 8k rebuilding my m3. the mechanic was a firm believer of the 'tune it on the dyno' theory.

so i was thrashing it over the weekend and it was back in the shop 2 days later from a spun bearing (as all bearings were replaced).

the guy who built it has to fork out for another rebuild.

he then told me to baby it for the next 1k after i got it back.

its not just the rings that need to be bedded in. its the bearings too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the best with it mate. Hopefully no dramas. I found quite a few issues when i pulled mine out eg fkt trans and engine mounts, throwout bearing, i had not been aware of, so 'any car maint' can be worthwhile it seems.
    • I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier. But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on. I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator. All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.
    • Brother-in-law's workshop. And I'll be doing. Family doesn't get priority over long running customer jobs. It wouldn't normally take so long to get to a task of mine, but there was a series of unfortunate events involving the dyno (blowing it up) that caused a serious backlog in the normal workload, that has toaken literally forever to get out from underneath. I can't do, or more to the point, choose not to do, jobs at home that require tools I don't have or would leave me without my daily if something goes wrong that thwarts me. Gearbox out on the floor with chassis stands is not palatable when I can use a hoist at the shop. But I've only had the box for a few weeks. It's the injectors and AFM that have been waiting on access to the dyno.
    • Thanks for mentioning it on the forums! Much appreciated Jen and I likely can't make it this weekend, but looking forward to see what you folks cook up in the future. Enjoy!
    • Welp, I have been driving it around (a bit) and messing with idle and return to idle characteristics. This is all well and good until I discovered my starter motor... is nearly dead. This is unfortunately after I booked my exhaust and tune in. This is the new section of my exhaust, after losing my mind with vbands and clamps. Yes I now have 4 mufflers. The two middle ones are 5in body 3in pipe round straight through mufflers or incorrectly named 'resonators' whatever you want to call. How does it sound? Muffled.   Car runs richer now in low load. Is it restriction? Or lack of exhaust leaks. I also figured out a way to make the Analog Readout match the serial WB Readout. All of this requires a car to you know.. *start* to tune the maths, which was not ideal when I needed it to get to the exhaust shop and back. It started when cold. 30 mins after the car got home, it was time to get stuck into it. Unfortunately this thing has no identifying marks on it at all. I contacted Mal Wood and asked if he could send me a replacement and he asked me to remove it because they've changed starters with their kits a few times over the years. I asked other companies with LH LS starter conversions and they all use different starters unique to their kits. I did find CAE performance supply Mal Wood - But they are out of stock for this starter for the next 3 weeks. The tune is booked for Friday 30th. Here's hoping the local starter motor repair place (which interestingly has a 5 star review from Trent @ Chequered) can get this rebuilt/sorted out so I can get it on and put the car on the dyno. Here's hoping!
×
×
  • Create New...