Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4th commonly wears out the synchro, however the biggest problem is actually third gear when you have some power people shred the gear to pieces. Nissan made an error with third gear counterweight and when shifting quickly 3rd doesnt engage the gear completely and shears off the end, very normal for gtr gearboxes. They are like any other gearbox really, often arent serviced, often abused, and used on cars with power outputs well outside what they are engineered for, in saying those points I think they stack up well.

Sorry to hear yours is stuffed probably better off fixing the one you have though and rebuilding it rather than going second hand at least that way you will know exactly what you have, a new gearbox essentially.

Cheers

Edited by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

monga:

How much torque do you have?

Flat shifting or normal?

What clutch setup?

Seems abit weird that some people break multiple boxes and others never break anything, then again I am known to granny shift at the drags. My other gtr has brand new 2-3-4th syncro's so hopefully that will hold out for a couple of years.

Not sure dude about the torque, I'm running 120mph at the moment at 16psi and I'll be putting a tune in shortly with 21 psi so abit of torque would be getting made

First time I shifted like a animal and the syncro's were shagged

Second time the damage was done at the drags shifting abit faster than normal and dropping the clutch abit to quick

clutch setup is a exedy twin plate, first time round it was a hks twin plate

This third box I've had for awhile now and change like a granny and its being great, once the gear is engaged nothing should blow up its getting it in there that is important

Hi Guys I have also failed 5th in my r32gtr has anyonone got any heads up on what might be wrong inside? I can put it into 5th sinchros dont feel nice and there is no drive once in 5th all other gears work fine. Does anyone know who can repair these in WA? And what costs may be involved.

I have a exceddy twin plate clutch and 500hp at the treads

Also i have been tossingup a few options for upgrade has anyone atached the ikeya sequen shifter to these boxes or heard of any feedback on the product.

any ideas or feedback would be much appeciated

Now my gearbox knowledge isnt great by any means...

But ive been reading a couple of threads about the GTR 5 spds breaking gears, and it seems that one common link is an Exedy twin plate clutch....could be a factor...dunno....just throwing it out there.

If it is a super aggressive clutch could be hard on a gearbox (i dont know, i havnt used one). Maybe usnig a weaker less aggressive clutch and having it act like a fuse, i.e. it breaks so that it saves the gearbox. From memory thats what Subaru did with the WRX, they gave it a piss weak clutch to save the 'box. Couple of hundred for a clutch is better than a couple of grand on a new 'box.

No science or facts behind this, just an interesting common link and idea. Also helps running some top quality gearbox fluid.

There are also a clouple of replacement gearsets available from OS Giken, and the is an Aussie company aswell, dont remember off the top of my head.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...