Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ja! and I'm surprised they sell it seperately I thought it was part of the main engine harness.....might grab one myself :)

thanks heaps mate. Spent about half an hour today at Nissan and couldnt find the part in FAST. Will ring them tomorrow and get one ordered in :D

how do i get a hold of a copy of FAST???? seems a few "non employees" have obtained copies and it would come in handy at work and home :down:

yeah sometimes there is more than 1 page in a section and this is one of them - there are about 30 wierd bits in the wiring section right down to clips, cable ties etc etc

not sure of a current place you can get FAST, I saw it years ago when it was live on bit torrent. its a really big set of files 2.2gb. Someone from this thread might be able to pm you where to get it

hey i need some part numbers for my car 1993 R32 GTS4

its a bit of a list i know there jst little things but i would like to get them out of the way

also i dont actually know what parts i have to get so i'll just right down what the mechanic said i need done :)

Left Hand Rack Boot

Drivers Front Drive Shaft Diff Seal Leak

P/Steering belt

HICAS leaking oil (Drivers Side)

Gearbox Hydraulic hose leaking

Front Caster Radius Buch cracked

4WD front drive shaft seal leak

Cheers sorry for the list

well....I'm too lazy to look all of them up.

But you can get aftermarket:

steering rack boot

power steer belt

radius rod bush

cheaper and in the case of radius rod better than standard.

diff seal (drivers side drive shaft) I think you need to go nissan. front drive shaft seal I've never heard of leaking? but it would be nissan as well.

hicas and attessa hose are a bit trickier, depends what the leak is. nip up the attessa hose a bit it might stop, if not check the little o ring or the flare on the hose. hicas no idea just ditch it and get a lock bar.

but your mechanic can probably get better prices than you can anyway

well....I'm too lazy to look all of them up.

But you can get aftermarket:

steering rack boot

power steer belt

radius rod bush

cheaper and in the case of radius rod better than standard.

diff seal (drivers side drive shaft) I think you need to go nissan. front drive shaft seal I've never heard of leaking? but it would be nissan as well.

hicas and attessa hose are a bit trickier, depends what the leak is. nip up the attessa hose a bit it might stop, if not check the little o ring or the flare on the hose. hicas no idea just ditch it and get a lock bar.

but your mechanic can probably get better prices than you can anyway

cheers man appreciate it..oh and what do u mean by nip up the attessa hose?? lol

Edited by vinnie34gtt
hm I can't work it out. looks like 83306-04u10 and 83307-04u01 are the windows, and I can see the clips parts too, but not the actual seals. Possibly its just sikaflex.

there are seals on the front (72750-04u10) and rear screens (79780-04u15)

Hmmm. I spoke to Nissan and they said that they couldn't order just the seals, and I would have to buy the window kit (about $480 a pop). Urgh. Anybody have any ideas? :)

Graham, don't go to nissan for them, I got them aftermarket from a gas strut guy in the phone book. They match one of the local maximas (not sure which series, but the guy I called had them on hand)

lucien, have you caught up with louie? pretty sure rear quarter seals don't exist and you would just use windsreen goop to hold them it.

Vince...at the rear of your gearbox there will the a line going in (17mm from memory). have a good look thats probably where the leak is coming from. Tighten it carefully (don't put too much force in or you can damage the fitting since it is hollow). If it s already tight take it right off, check the flare on the end of the pipe is in good condition (no nicks or bends) and put it back in again making sure it is straight. If you do undo it you will loose some (or all depending how slow you are) of the attessa fluid. If so, refill the resoviour in the boot with auto trans fluid and bleed the attessa system (search for instructions)> Or just leave it for your mechanic to fix lol

Part no's for Nissan stagea 260RS gas filled telescopic bonnet supports anyone? Them thangs wot stops lid falling on head when sticky-beaking? vin WGNC34-1008837

Cheers GW :D

I got a pair of these for my Laurel, they cost me $167 each. I tried to get them regassed but the seals were rooted, if your seals are ok maybe you could try this option.

Graham, don't go to nissan for them, I got them aftermarket from a gas strut guy in the phone book. They match one of the local maximas (not sure which series, but the guy I called had them on hand)

Hi Duncan, thanks for the info, my car is S1 & gas struts are about rooted. No apparent leaks but then gas is tricky stuff to spot :P This guy of yours, could you post or pm me his name/fone # as there are a few of them in the book. Quite a few actually. :( Or a manufacturer & part # from your ship?

Cheers GW :P

PS: Thanks Russell, because I be way out back I will be going for replacement first then maybe get old ones regassed if serviceable. Thanks again. GW

Edited by 260tech
Hi Duncan, thanks for the info, my car is S1 & gas struts are about rooted. No apparent leaks but then gas is tricky stuff to spot :P This guy of yours, could you post or pm me his name/fone # as there are a few of them in the book. Quite a few actually. :( Or a munufacturer & part # from your ship?

Cheers GW :P

just some quick info. Any guy that does struts can help you. they will fit just generic no name stuff that will work perfectly.

An old mate of mine used to work for Motorgear. They had a book (cant remember which company it was from) that had most models listed. He said u can use any of the struts out of the book to replace and strut as long as the ends were the same. You just gotta look at the open size, closed size and the strength. I replaced the struts in the tailgate of my old VL wagon with struts suited for a mitsubishi. a little more open length in them so the gate opened higher. :D

thanks heaps mate. Spent about half an hour today at Nissan and couldnt find the part in FAST. Will ring them tomorrow and get one ordered in :)

how do i get a hold of a copy of FAST???? seems a few "non employees" have obtained copies and it would come in handy at work and home >_<

yeah much easier to just order the part no, interesting to see every part of a skyline in pieces too

http://www.torrentbox.com/torrent_details?id=57362

fyi torrentbox is mostly worksafe

won't be seeding forever so get in quick :)

just some quick info. Any guy that does struts can help you. they will fit just generic no name stuff that will work perfectly.

An old mate of mine used to work for Motorgear. They had a book (cant remember which company it was from) that had most models listed. He said u can use any of the struts out of the book to replace and strut as long as the ends were the same. You just gotta look at the open size, closed size and the strength. I replaced the struts in the tailgate of my old VL wagon with struts suited for a mitsubishi. a little more open length in them so the gate opened higher. :)

Cheers Arep, so my best bet is to find a strut Johnnie & go from there? Was hoping to order a pair & do "homefit" but sounds like a good excuse to do a run to the metropolis, when the fires are out.

Thanks & cheers GW >_<

Cheers Arep, so my best bet is to find a strut Johnnie & go from there? Was hoping to order a pair & do "homefit" but sounds like a good excuse to do a run to the metropolis, when the fires are out.

Thanks & cheers GW :down:

We have several machines at my work that have sound barriers on them. they have lift up doors that are on gas struts. whenever they fail or a new machine is added we get a guy that drives out to fit them. just a 1 man band and he has always done a great job with all the struts he has fitted. The only thing i know of that he hasnt been able to fit struts to is my bonnet!

Hi im after some part numbers for:

front, rear, quarter panel and side window rubber surrounds, pretty much all the rubber that sits around the exterior of the windows.

All for 1992 r32 gtst.

Can FAST look this up???

thanks heaps..

Tone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...