Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i have a rather strange question i heard that stagea's and skylines are limited to 180KM/H, if this is so am i sposed to feel some sort of lagg out or just a suddern drop in revs or what? The reason i ask is if i took my car up to 180 (could have been on a track could have been on a dyno or any thing) the speedo reads 180 but the car still feels like its accelerating and the needle bounces violently, is this normal ? Any one els had this same sporta thing?

in the pic you can see it is just above 180 and caught in the middle of its jumping.

post-34650-1183714094_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/
Share on other sites

never tried in the volvo but my gtst had the limiter at 192km/h according to the gps (on 265/35/18s), it never hit hard though maybe you have some extra herbs - more like a very gentle back off.

anyway at that speed the speedo is pretty inaccurate, assume it is 10% high, so 175 indicated = 160 real.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217140
Share on other sites

yeah i know my speedo is out about 200m's to the 5klm's according to the speedo checks on the hi-way might have something to do with the 19' wheels. but i sware it was heaps more then 160-180 and still pulling, still had alot more in it only reason i slowed was because of the wheels they felt like they were tram tracking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217158
Share on other sites

I'm in the same boat as duncan, never got the stagea up to that speed, but my old R33 definately stopped around 190 (on a private road). it's not a sudden jump though, just a gentle reduction in speed, then it speeds up again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217170
Share on other sites

my r33 keeps on going roung... last time i tried i had hicas light on and the needle went past there before i backed it off... could have kept pushing...

you can get a cut out for it, or an aftermarket ECU like i have (microtech LT-8), will cutout any motor restrictions anyway. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217367
Share on other sites

very strange there must be something wrong with my limiter because it went past 180 on the speedo and just kept bouncing back down to below 180 but there was no change in motion or pull at all ...... haha wont see me complaining.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217771
Share on other sites

so your saying it keeps climbing but your needle on the cluster just goes spastic??? if it doesnt cut out or jerk there is no major problem... i dunno if its because its auto or not , mine being a manual (and r33) it doesnt do anything but keep going round (but also because i have aftermarket ECU) might see if i can get back round to 0km/h :thumbsup: how fast would that be???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217779
Share on other sites

Sounds like your speed cut is working properly. As stated before, the speedo is highly inaccurate at that speed, so once the car is actually at 180km/h, the cut is activated and keeps the speed between 170-180. I can't imagine it to be violent as you are driving at a great speed. The car would still feel strong and feel like it will go faster, because basically it will, if the speed cut was disabled.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3217849
Share on other sites

Everyone, please be very aware of what you post on these pages in regards to the speeds you claim to drive - I don't want to be handing out warnings or waving the ban stick around, and by the same token I don't want any of you to suffer any repercussions of anyone in the police or motoring authorities hitting you guys/girls up with fines and licence/rego cancellations.

If need be, change your posts where appropriate, as we DO NOT condone inappropriate (and excessive) speeds on the streets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3218635
Share on other sites

I agree wiyh Nick T.

The only way to get actual speed without SatNav etc, Is to measure the diameter of your tyres, get your diff and gearbox

ratios and calculate hom many ks you are doing per 1000 engine revs.

I am running 17s and this relates to approx 40kph per 1000 engine revs. If the torque converter is locked up at 4500 you wii be doing a very illegal 180.

I tend to drive more on the tacho than the speedo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3218875
Share on other sites

to get rid of the fuel cut you could buy a little magic box called a PIVOT SPEEDMETER to suit an r33 gtr and this does a few things.

1) it gets rid of the 180klm cutout.

2)it will give you a more accurate readout in a digital display.

3) it will record highest speed reached and hold it until the ignition is switched off.

4)it will record 100metre 200metre 300metre and 400 metre times

5) it will record the average speed of the trip.

and i think it does a bit of other stuff too and they are around $100 aussie dollars delivered, link below.

i have one and it works a treat :dry:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Geniune-PIV...sspagenameZWDVW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175580-limiter/#findComment-3220487
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...