Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the relay that is connected to the 4WD fuse clicks repeatedly approx every 60secs at idle.

the relay is located near the bonnet hinges on the drivers side ie the black relay.

anyone got ideas on why it is being triggered? can anyone supply circuit diagrams to help out?

ps. the 4WD light is not being lit but does work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176045-4wd-relay-clicking-at-idle/
Share on other sites

the relay that is connected to the 4WD fuse clicks repeatedly approx every 60secs at idle.

the relay is located near the bonnet hinges on the drivers side ie the black relay.

anyone got ideas on why it is being triggered? can anyone supply circuit diagrams to help out?

ps. the 4WD light is not being lit but does work.

Mine does exactly the same thing, have tried to diagnose it, but got nowhere.

Tried tracing things through the diagrams in the service manual, but had no luck.

  • 5 months later...
i still have that infernal clicking.

how is the atessa triggered on stageas? is it a wheel sensor if so could it be faulty or incorrectly located?

The stagea doesn't use wheel sensors, it uses g-force sensors, located under the centre console between the front seats. Maybe if one of the mercury switches was stuffed it could be constantly flicking the relays on/off? This seems uinlikely though, as Jermome would have found out - I have a feeling they would be very expensive to repair, not to mention difficult to source. My money would be on a stuffed relay.

the relay is fine. i have changed it from another S2 that does not have this issue and it still clicks. something is sending a signal to it and it beats me what it is.

perhaps i should take the console out and check the orientation of the g-force sensor??!?! unless someone moved something during the stereo install?

The stagea doesn't use wheel sensors, it uses g-force sensors, located under the centre console between the front seats. Maybe if one of the mercury switches was stuffed it could be constantly flicking the relays on/off? This seems uinlikely though, as Jermome would have found out - I have a feeling they would be very expensive to repair, not to mention difficult to source. My money would be on a stuffed relay.

ATTESA also uses the ABS sensors...as well as g-force sensors.

  • 2 months later...

thanks chook

the powerfc makes it harder to find these codes without swapping ECU's back (i guess).

based on philtacular's issue 'the clicking relay' which showed a pressure switch fault then it is odds on we all have the same issue.

sooo what does the pressure switch do and where is it?

On my R32 GTR the relay in the rear of the boot clicks intermittantly at idle also. My 4WD gauge also goes to full torque split and beyond. As soon as the car moves, it goes back to normal and the clicking stops.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...