Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dave,

good work on finding a fix for the clicking noise, I have the same problem on my r32 gtr and was planning on buying a second hand attessa unit and fitting it to my car. After reading this thread I will now just try and re-charge the accumulator that is currently on the car. Just a a quick question, what presssure did you fill the accumulator to? I read on the aristo link you posted that 1000psi seems to be norm for those cars, is that same pressure you used on you accumulator?

Thanks

Aki

  • 4 weeks later...
Problem solved!

So here's the solution if you have this clicking relay problem (and it is because of the "flat" accumulator - probably is though):

- with engine/ignition off, open hydraulic bleeder connection on the underside of the ATTESA assembly (just above the rear diff')

- unscrew the accumulator, may lose a few drops of ATTESA system fluid?

- recharge or replace the accumulator

- replace the O-ring on it if it is looking cracked

- screw back in :O

So far mine is fixed, no 4wd light, and the relay clicked only perhaps twice(?) that I noticed on a 45+ minute drive. At last got rid of that infernal clicking!!!

PS For those looking for a way to get their cylinders recharged... check out this forum topic (sorry mod's it's on a Toyota forum - don't think there's any conflict of interest there though!). I'm just about to send the guy who does the recharging ("Mooty") my flat accumulator cylinder, to use as an exchange unit, and he says he will soon get back into the recharging and do ATTESA too. So hopefully we will soon have access to an exchange service which can recharge the cylinders for under $150 :)

I have been chasing this problem for 4 years and just fixed it 2hrs ago!

Big thanks to Dave B for finding the fix.

Just replaced my accumulator and no more ETS relay clicking in the boot! I replaced mine with a secondhand one but they are available new from Nissan.

Big thanks to Ben from Quatromotive in Northgate Brisbane who can source the accumulator and remove & refit!

http://www.quattromotive.com.au/

Cheers Dave B happy as :)

Dave,

good work on finding a fix for the clicking noise, I have the same problem on my r32 gtr and was planning on buying a second hand attessa unit and fitting it to my car. After reading this thread I will now just try and re-charge the accumulator that is currently on the car. Just a a quick question, what presssure did you fill the accumulator to? I read on the aristo link you posted that 1000psi seems to be norm for those cars, is that same pressure you used on you accumulator?

Thanks

Aki

Great stuff guys, good info' on the units from Nissan and I will have to check out that web address... sorry I missed your reply Aki but in answer to your question: I don't know what the pressure is because I replaced my accumulator with a used, known-good second-hand unit. 1,000PSI sounds like a lot but could be right. Hopefully if there is a place who can recharge them they will know.

I have been chasing this problem for 4 years and just fixed it 2hrs ago!

Big thanks to Dave B for finding the fix.

Just replaced my accumulator and no more ETS relay clicking in the boot! I replaced mine with a secondhand one but they are available new from Nissan.

Big thanks to Ben from Quatromotive in Northgate Brisbane who can source the accumulator and remove & refit!

http://www.quattromotive.com.au/

Cheers Dave B happy as :blink:

Great news! Glad it worked :)

  • 2 months later...

Its so funny cause i had the exact same problem and so many people on the forums said it was normal.

I remember when i first got my Gtr34 it never used to do this clicking thing in the boot and then after the first engine failed the car sat for so long so i presume thats when the accumalator lost its pressure ...

Then when i got the second motor in and started driving her around town running it in i remember pulling up to a robot and hearing this constant clicking sound it used to bug me terribly.

So i posted a few questions and never had them really answered.

I even used examples of other gtr34's attessa system pump sounds and never was the relay noise ever mentioned.

As fas as i know the pump should engage once when the car is just been started and then you wont hear it again till some track use or hard driving with some major turning and high speed cornering then a few seconds later after you stop and let the car idle you shouldnt hear the relay clicking you should actually hear a pump high pitched whine coming from the rear of the car and that means its charging up the attessa accumalator.

Thankyou for taking the time and pain staking process of trying to solve this problem.

I remember on gtr.co.uk there is a guy there called joker69 or something like that he also had the same problem and replaced his attessa accum.... and viola problem solved amazing.

i would still suggest bleeding the system after fitting the new unit as you will get air trapped in the system and bleed the whole system starting from the resevoir and then the pump at the back and then finally the front Bleed nipple that is next to what they call the clutch pack on the front transfer case.

Thankyou again when i get my car on the road again maybe in a year or so i will post when i replace the accum and let you guys know what results i get as well.

Cheers and well done...

thanks everyone for the info, ordered a new accumulator from Nissan today, $380, and a new relay to be sure $40. Didnt want to take a chance on a 2nd hand unit as they are all over 10 yrs old by now. But seems to be an opening for a business if they can get a recharge service going.

  • 2 weeks later...
Problem solved!

So here's the solution if you have this clicking relay problem (and it is because of the "flat" accumulator - probably is though):

- with engine/ignition off, open hydraulic bleeder connection on the underside of the ATTESA assembly (just above the rear diff')

- unscrew the accumulator, may lose a few drops of ATTESA system fluid?

- recharge or replace the accumulator

- replace the O-ring on it if it is looking cracked

- screw back in :)

So far mine is fixed, no 4wd light, and the relay clicked only perhaps twice(?) that I noticed on a 45+ minute drive. At last got rid of that infernal clicking!!!

PS For those looking for a way to get their cylinders recharged... check out this forum topic (sorry mod's it's on a Toyota forum - don't think there's any conflict of interest there though!). I'm just about to send the guy who does the recharging ("Mooty") my flat accumulator cylinder, to use as an exchange unit, and he says he will soon get back into the recharging and do ATTESA too. So hopefully we will soon have access to an exchange service which can recharge the cylinders for under $150 :P

wow, thank you so much!! i had the same problem for the last 4 years with no repercussions. but the last 2 weeks, its getting worse and worse, it clicks every 5-10 sec and, i loose power steering, radio shutdown, my apexis panels shut down and my lights flicker every where !!

my car is getting new turbos and i asked my mechanics to change my accumulator at the same time !!

Its gonna be weird not hearing the sound anymore after 4 years of annoying clicks.

Marc-André from Montréal, Canada

got the accumulator ready to install, for those who have done this, what tool did you use to remove it? oil filter wrench ? and could you turn it/get leverage without lowering the diff ?

got the accumulator ready to install, for those who have done this, what tool did you use to remove it? oil filter wrench ? and could you turn it/get leverage without lowering the diff ?

Definitely can do on the car, without removing anything (well having a hoist obviously made it easier). I removed one using a G-clamp; but perhaps you could even get it undone using an oil filter wrench... I can't remember what the mechanic used who undid mine on the car but it may have been an oil filter wrench.

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

update:

Replaced the actuator 6 months ago due to the relay clicking, new from nissan.

All fine until a month or so ago, clicking stated up again, but only on hot days and only after driving for more than approx 30min. And even then, doesnt always happen, maybe on 1/3 of long drives. The clicking occurs rapidly on accel and when snow button is pressed whilst idling. If I turn off/on engine for a few minutes it come good. This all matches the pattern i had before i replaced accuator. I would have thought if actuator went, it wouldnt be an intermittent problem, but always ? For those who fixed theirs with actuator, was it clicking at all times ?

Not keen to spend another $350 on a new actuator.

It appears heat related, possibly pump or electrical ? Any ideas. And yes, new fluid, bled many times from both nipples...

  • 3 years later...

Hi All,

Anyone removed the accumulator without lowering subframe/diff?

I tried this today on my R32 Gtr and couldnt get a good grip on the accumulator with G clamp.

The accumulator seems to be stuck/seized at the thread.

Any advice is helpful thanks.

Edited by keysersoze

When I said "I" removed it, that was a bit of a furby... I watched the mechanic do it with the car on a hoist. I have a vague recollection of him scratching his head for a couple of minutes, and saying something like "hope we can do this without dropping the diff", but then I pretty clearly remember it only took 5 minutes so no diff removal just a bit tight.

Glad this has cropped up. The Dayz has the dreaded "Click" Did not know what it is. Now I know how to fix. Many thanks.

Edited by 66yostagea
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...