Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought you may be interested in the project I just picked up from QLD.

2 seater Z32 hardtop.

It was an unfinished project which is going to save me a heap of time.

PICT3882.jpg

Forged engine with Hi flowed stock turbos, Ported heads, 1mm oversized valves

PICT3888.jpg

Full cage.

PICT3917.jpg

Twin catch cans

PICT3919-1.jpg

Large PWR radiator and custom air intake.

PICT3922-1.jpg

PICT3923-1.jpg

Motec M800 and AEM CD2 spark amp.

Suspension is Proflex with remote reservoirs in each corner. ROH alloys with Hoosier semi slick all brand new.

I also got 5 full boxes of extra parts, pedal boxes etc etc. I am still trying to figure out what is what.

Need to track down a MOTEC digital dash.

Should be fun. I am hoping to have this finished by Mid 2009.

The chasis is still a bit fat so a course of dieting to rip some more weight out of it is the next step.

Dropped in to catch up with some mates in Sydney on the way back.

PICT3904.jpg

Edited by Tektrader69

t01-100 your fd looks like its coming along very nicely. I've been helping a mate build his fd over the last couple of months, same colour too :)

its waiting on a new turbo from the states atm

post-19425-1225668749_thumb.jpgpost-19425-1225669127_thumb.jpg post-19425-1225669154_thumb.jpg

Slowly getting mine up ready to get back out to the track, lots of fun. :)

post-19425-1225669743_thumb.jpg

Pretty stoked today :)

Went over to Zoom at Wynum to pick up another gearbox (broke 5th gear) and Troy gave me a 32 GTR rear wing in fibreglass. I bought a genuine one off ebay but forgot how heavy they were... 7kg versus 1.5kg. Small things excite me I guess :)

These teins look pretty good....whats a set of them for r33 gtst's worth these days?

Im thinking time to upgrade from my bilstiens

i bought mine from yahoo auction, i was lucky that they had just been rebuild by tein in japan :ninja:

Tein japan still list them on their website for the r33 gts-t so maybe someone that can write japeneses can shoot them off a pm for you. but im guessing they wont be cheap but they are awesome!

Both cars look great Cameron. Any more details the both of them?

Very neat engine bay in your car by the way, nice job.

Imported the FD around July this year as a race/rally only. stripped the car completly bare straight away, fitted the seat, got the roll cage done, put some ohlins in it with different rate springs, larger rims, took it for a test, got too hot, back to the shed and totally reengineered the cooling system and air flow, made some lexan windows and got it retuned, then went back out testing, cooling system was great, but cracked an apex seal and lunched two rotor housings ( typical rotory :P )

Now has a brand new motor with a bit of porting and extras, converted to a biggish single (still waiting to come from us of a) should be up and running and backout there soon.

My car is still a street car and registered, has most of the interior still in it etc, stripped it out a little, fixed back seat, harness etc, don't really want to make it into a dedicated track car. just a weekend/sprints fun car :yes:

cheers Michael!

If worst case....cant get those...whats the next best?

Cheers!

new about $5K+ for the RS, maybe $3500 for the RA. second hand under $3K for the RS and a bit cheaper for the RA. but second hand can be a lottery. everyone will always say they are in tip top shape, but it's not always the case. best bet is if buying second hand from an unknown then budget for a rebuild, or at least get them on a shock dyno to be checked and set-up.

I saw that Zed for sale and have to say i was often thinking it seemed to be a really good buy. Its a rude question and you dont have to answer, but how close to asking price did you get it for?

There was a fair bit of tooing and froing as i didnt want some of the gear. So the brakes came off, drivers seat wouldnt fit my ass in it so it came out as well.

It had side mount Inter Coolers but would have preferred a FMIC, so they came out. After looking at the fabrication he had already done i am gonna get the SMIC's to make my life easier.

So basically it was a bit cheaper but not much.

Imported the FD around July this year as a race/rally only. stripped the car completly bare straight away, fitted the seat, got the roll cage done, put some ohlins in it with different rate springs, larger rims, took it for a test, got too hot, back to the shed and totally reengineered the cooling system and air flow, made some lexan windows and got it retuned, then went back out testing, cooling system was great, but cracked an apex seal and lunched two rotor housings ( typical rotory :down: )

Now has a brand new motor with a bit of porting and extras, converted to a biggish single (still waiting to come from us of a) should be up and running and backout there soon.

My car is still a street car and registered, has most of the interior still in it etc, stripped it out a little, fixed back seat, harness etc, don't really want to make it into a dedicated track car. just a weekend/sprints fun car :laugh:

Good old rotors!

Sounds nice mate. Keep us updated when it hits the track again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...