Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just posted a Vid (Spicers cup) Its Sportscar Steves just learning but winning Races already, V8 Supercars Run with him and he is beating them now.

He hit the wall in race 2 ,Will put that race up soon. We have 4 weeks to get it finished.

That's awesome!

Did you guys make that front end, or is it a off the shelf mould?

How far back has the engine been moved?

Toy: SR20 is best :down:

Ahhhh, a good old R20 vs RB20 discussion... I thought these were reserved for NS.com!

ah NS, so many amusing threads.

nothing against rb20's in general but i'm still stumped as to why people remove a perfectly good sr to chuck in an extra 100kgs over the nose with the same sort of power and all the cooling, installation and wiring issues that go with it....

go the RB20. it sounds like a sweet trumpeter under your bonnet. SR20 sounds like someone ripped an engine from the closest tractor. the sound alone is almost reason enough to love the RB20! having said that I wouldn't be chucking the SR20 out of my silvia in a hurry either. good power and torque, just sound like rubbish and they do like to break.

in fact, troy knows one day my track car will be an R32 GTST with 2.2L SR20. or maybe try a 2.4L RB20. but I reckon a nicely built 2.2 SR20 with a good sized turbo (around 3037) in a GTST would be a nice thing.

Driving each others cars back from PI it was sad to get back in my car. The SR20 is better on the street , no doubt! Bit when driven in anger at the track i would say the RB20 does just fine. Yes, you should buy that GTSt, the exchange rate is going your way

Both are good engines in their own right, and are pretty damn tough too (RB would pip the SR at this, but the SR is plenty tough in stock form IMO), I just wouldn't put that weight over the front of an S chassis. I was going to go RB26 for a while there, but decided against it for that reason. That RB25 180 above makes me think perhaps I should have! Though it looks to have the engine placed further back and lower which I'm sure has a lot to do with it.

I agree.... I personally wouldn't put an RB in an S chassis either. And I also think the SR is a great engine, i hear of all these stories of inherent weaknesses, but I'm yet to see it with my own eyes..... sure I believe it's possible in a super-highly tuned SR, but for most applications, they do just fine.

To my ears, an Rb20 is music, I can't get enough :)

Driving each others cars back from PI it was sad to get back in my car. The SR20 is better on the street , no doubt! Bit when driven in anger at the track i would say the RB20 does just fine. Yes, you should buy that GTSt, the exchange rate is going your way

well driving your car on the street you are right. in any kind of traffic or low speed limit zones you never really get a chance to get it right up onto boost with the gate open so you always feel like you're getting half screwed and let go every time you shift up at 4,500 or so. the only way around that is drive like a loon and revs the nuts off it in 1st and 2nd everywhere but that wont win you any friends. and it feels like it is breathless under about 4,500. but mate, once the road clears and the speed limit goes up you get it up in the fun zone and it's awesome. it's the perfect car to 'cruise' on the street. and then thrash it on the track. and even if it's not quick low down it sounds amazing. on the street a good sounding car is enough to keep me happy, cause a car with lots of torque just gets you in trouble as they are still quick at 'street rpm'.

the grass is always greener. i would trade you my silvia for your 32 any day, but with how serious your 32 is now that would just be an insult to you.... having said that put a TD06 on the silvia and a few other little bits and it would be a closer fight. :)

man I still want to buy that 32. every month or so I remind tets I want it, but he is still not selling. the owner practically never drives it anymore which is sad as it is apparently a very nicely sorted car. it's my dream package. prime garage built 2.2 SR20, from memory it was a 3037 or 2835 with external gate, all the other good gear engine wise, motec ECU, lots of good stuff. then we could really play :blink:

I agree.... I personally wouldn't put an RB in an S chassis either. And I also think the SR is a great engine, i hear of all these stories of inherent weaknesses, but I'm yet to see it with my own eyes..... sure I believe it's possible in a super-highly tuned SR, but for most applications, they do just fine.

To my ears, an Rb20 is music, I can't get enough :)

I think yours is a testament to the might of the RB20, 5 days of abuse, many a track day.. all on a stock wrecker motor...

and the noise? about 20+ vids on youtube attest to the the sweet XXX rated sound of a 20 on song!

I agree.... I personally wouldn't put an RB in an S chassis either. And I also think the SR is a great engine, i hear of all these stories of inherent weaknesses, but I'm yet to see it with my own eyes..... sure I believe it's possible in a super-highly tuned SR, but for most applications, they do just fine.

To my ears, an Rb20 is music, I can't get enough

Definitely, your car sounds very sweet!

My stock 1991 SR came out of my car having run 240rwkw's for 3 years, with 4 track days, and maybe 3 or 4 DECA days, as well as drifting etc and tested within 2psi across all cylinders and never broke anything :)

Richard: That 32 sounds a treat mate! I've always had a hankering for an SR powered 32 as well...

I really think engine longevity is more to do with the original condition when you start, combined with good tuning, good servicing, temperature management and a little bit of mechanical sympathy.

My stock bottom end rb25 copped a flogging, did about 10 track days and many skidpans with between 260 and 288rwkw, got revved to 7400 and rarely saw less than 1.3bar. As with phunky's sr it was compression tested before removal from the car and was within 3psi across all cylinders.

I plan on further testing my theory by sticking a 3071 on the side of a low km s15 sr20 and stuffing some boost into it with the intention of around 260-270rwkw. We'll see if the engine dies before the box breaks :)

There isnt enough to justify a build thread :thumbsup: Troy hits tyres at Sandown...two years later when i got sick of looking at dent car goes to panel beater. Car sits at panel beaters while i work OS :D Pretty sad really :)

So hopefully will be back in Aus in November at which time i hope to be able to put fuel in and go! But still std RB20 etc etc

a little pic of the silvia with it's new 3 point tomei brace. the dumb thing is I actually did have a strut brace. :D lol I forgot it was there. it was one that tucks up near the back of the engine, and it's actually a nice one. a mines alloy one of all things. it's pretty cool and weighs absolutely nothing and would have cost a pretty penny. so if anyone with an S13 needs a strut brace give me a yell!

s131h.jpg

and a pic of the silvia with my RX7. took this as a bit of a farewell pic as the RX7 is going to it's new home shortly. :D

it's funny. I've been driving the RX7 a lot lately and it feels very nimble and quite powerful...until I drove the silvia again. being a 88 model it's light as hell, (around 1200kg) and has 230rwkw and lots of suspension gear. next to the RX7 it feels like a V8 powered go-kart! when I got back in the RX7 afterwards it felt like a luxo barge. and that's saying something as it's actually a pretty raw car to drive.

s132.jpg

s133.jpg

s134.jpg

anyway the main news is the silvia is back baby! and I'm loving it. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...