Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just need a bit of advice and to see what you guys would do.

I have a GTST series 2 R33.

I was having trouble with the car showing high knock levels on my power fc around Jan this year. So i took it into boostworks and got it tuned. Cant remember what it cost off the top off my head.

It then kept knocking so a few months later i took it back in and they fiddeled around with it again and charged me $50.

Now the knock is gone but since the last tune up im now getting terriable fuel econmy. I was getting 400km to a tank, mayb a bit more. Now im struggling to get 350km... I dunno whether im now being to picky but im not to happy....

What would you do? Is that just the way it goes or what?

And i dont really want to keep annoying shawn....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/
Share on other sites

Adam, They may have needed to dump some fuel in to stop it from knocking, or at least to make it a little safer, either that or you may need a new 02 sensor! Mine goes thru the juice as well, I would assume you should get more than 350 out of a tank, but don't expect to get too much as these sorta cars come at an expense!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3237465
Share on other sites

heres an idea....ring shuan and ask him?

edit/ u should get around 10L/100km

Dunno about that... on the open road you will. In the city I average around 13L/100 and the worst I get is about 15L/100, and my car is still pretty standard.

My last fill was 11.5L/100 with about 300 km of it in the country.

Still I'm pretty happy with that as friends with Gen3 V8's are lucky to get 20L/100 :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3237903
Share on other sites

3lt with mods and i get that with conservative driving easy. Not city centre or peak traffic, but everywhere else (all the time) i do.

how can u doubt what i get even though u dont know me or have seen my car....? Im the one who drives and fills the tank

If i booted it id probably suck more fuel than u, but id be gone from the servo before u got there :D

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3237941
Share on other sites

Going somewhere else isn't going to magically solve the problem. It looks like Shaun knew what he was doing and did solve the problem whilst charging almost nothing!

My suggestion is that he has FIXED the knock problem which may have been masking another problem that affects fuel economy.

Your engine was obviously running quite lean (hence the knocking), which will also give you more power and use less fuel (because running lean means you are using more air and less fuel than if it was running rich).

So all he has done is make your AFR's safe (like it should have been before), so rather than blaming that for your poor fuel economy, look for another problem elsewhere.

I'd go with the recommendation to check/change your O2 sensor, check tire pressures, ignition timing, Air filter (every little bit helps), intake temps and anything else you can think of that may affect fuel economy.

You should have an AFR graph from your last dyno which should help to see where the problem lies. A good looking AFR might still mean there are sensors not working 100% correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3238506
Share on other sites

completely off topic but,

that red VL with boostworx hollographics all over it...is that owned by one of the guys who works there? Ive seen that thing punch it before and, wholly crap....

Nope he doesn't work there. It still hasn't been pushed hard yet as its had a few issues initially with oiling then the bottom end let go and now its running a std bottom end. Unsure when it will have another tough bottom end slipped in there and pushed up over its previous best of ~300rwkw. Its definitely got some potential.

-----------

Adz,

Throw some nulon fuel system cleaner through it (believe it or not it does work when used every 5-10,000km's or so), check the o2 sensor is swinging once the car is warm and your cruising at a steady speed, if its not check o2 feedback has been turned back on after tuning.

----

As with bl4ck32 I was getting from mid 10's to flat 11l/100km's when tuned up from the rb30det driving around with a bit of a lead foot as it loves to lunge off the line with very little throttle input.

BUT saying that our motors are essentially identical; same headwork by the same people at the same time, same bottom end at the same time same people etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3239095
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...