Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just need a bit of advice and to see what you guys would do.

I have a GTST series 2 R33.

I was having trouble with the car showing high knock levels on my power fc around Jan this year. So i took it into boostworks and got it tuned. Cant remember what it cost off the top off my head.

It then kept knocking so a few months later i took it back in and they fiddeled around with it again and charged me $50.

Now the knock is gone but since the last tune up im now getting terriable fuel econmy. I was getting 400km to a tank, mayb a bit more. Now im struggling to get 350km... I dunno whether im now being to picky but im not to happy....

What would you do? Is that just the way it goes or what?

And i dont really want to keep annoying shawn....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/
Share on other sites

Adam, They may have needed to dump some fuel in to stop it from knocking, or at least to make it a little safer, either that or you may need a new 02 sensor! Mine goes thru the juice as well, I would assume you should get more than 350 out of a tank, but don't expect to get too much as these sorta cars come at an expense!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3237465
Share on other sites

heres an idea....ring shuan and ask him?

edit/ u should get around 10L/100km

Dunno about that... on the open road you will. In the city I average around 13L/100 and the worst I get is about 15L/100, and my car is still pretty standard.

My last fill was 11.5L/100 with about 300 km of it in the country.

Still I'm pretty happy with that as friends with Gen3 V8's are lucky to get 20L/100 :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3237903
Share on other sites

3lt with mods and i get that with conservative driving easy. Not city centre or peak traffic, but everywhere else (all the time) i do.

how can u doubt what i get even though u dont know me or have seen my car....? Im the one who drives and fills the tank

If i booted it id probably suck more fuel than u, but id be gone from the servo before u got there :D

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3237941
Share on other sites

Going somewhere else isn't going to magically solve the problem. It looks like Shaun knew what he was doing and did solve the problem whilst charging almost nothing!

My suggestion is that he has FIXED the knock problem which may have been masking another problem that affects fuel economy.

Your engine was obviously running quite lean (hence the knocking), which will also give you more power and use less fuel (because running lean means you are using more air and less fuel than if it was running rich).

So all he has done is make your AFR's safe (like it should have been before), so rather than blaming that for your poor fuel economy, look for another problem elsewhere.

I'd go with the recommendation to check/change your O2 sensor, check tire pressures, ignition timing, Air filter (every little bit helps), intake temps and anything else you can think of that may affect fuel economy.

You should have an AFR graph from your last dyno which should help to see where the problem lies. A good looking AFR might still mean there are sensors not working 100% correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3238506
Share on other sites

completely off topic but,

that red VL with boostworx hollographics all over it...is that owned by one of the guys who works there? Ive seen that thing punch it before and, wholly crap....

Nope he doesn't work there. It still hasn't been pushed hard yet as its had a few issues initially with oiling then the bottom end let go and now its running a std bottom end. Unsure when it will have another tough bottom end slipped in there and pushed up over its previous best of ~300rwkw. Its definitely got some potential.

-----------

Adz,

Throw some nulon fuel system cleaner through it (believe it or not it does work when used every 5-10,000km's or so), check the o2 sensor is swinging once the car is warm and your cruising at a steady speed, if its not check o2 feedback has been turned back on after tuning.

----

As with bl4ck32 I was getting from mid 10's to flat 11l/100km's when tuned up from the rb30det driving around with a bit of a lead foot as it loves to lunge off the line with very little throttle input.

BUT saying that our motors are essentially identical; same headwork by the same people at the same time, same bottom end at the same time same people etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177184-boostworks/#findComment-3239095
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...