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How Much Do You Spend On A Oil Change ?

Guilt-Toy

By Guilt-Toy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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fEkuaR Experienced

fEkuaR

Posted
Posted
lol, I wouldn't trust him with my lawn mower if he recommends mineral oil for a 500hp RB26... especially as you are planning track use. mineral oil in a track RB26 is not a recipe for happiness.

lol exactly what i was thinking. Whats a bit more money in the face of a complete rebuild. Especially when your talking highly modified street cars being driven hard on the track.

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rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok I am now going to use caps lock to get a very important point across to people who have posted about service intervals;

CHANGE YOUR OIL ACCORDING TO USE NOT KMS !

5,000kms is not a holy service change interval, it is only a guide and a minimum one at that. If you actually read a service manual for a car/truck they state this minimum BUT they almost always have a part that says " change with greater frequency according to driving in conditions of high heat, load, dust, altitude etc....

Most of the guys and gals on this forum enjoy a little right foot work and most have increased power over stock. So 5,000kms is NOT a good oil change interval for even those people IF you want the engine to suffer the least amount of wear.

I drove my old GTR (with lots more power than stock) less aggressively than most but, it had oil changes at 3k or less sometimes even less than 1k. I hear people going " but, that would cost a fortune! " . Yes it does, the dream is dead.

If you go to the dyno/track or drag strip ----- you are best off to drop your oil right afterwards AND basically all the other lubricants in your diff/s and transmission etc. Your oil is very well contaminated.

So while you are debating spending more money on a better oil for the oil change, think about spending more money on more frequent changes. :banana:

Edited by rev210
khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

As mentioned bu URAS is the earlier in this thread I used Wearcheck UOA and been doing this for some time with my redline (see oil thread). Bascially I have been able to run it much longer than 1-4k with a GTST at 270rkw. Base you OCIs on facts not on guess work. But I agree dont skimp on oil.

If you understand how filters, oil filters in particular, work you will release they dont get to their peak filtration under about 3-4,000km. You can work out what that means. In addition Ester based oils like reldine take some time for the addatives to get going. Chaging it ever 1-2k means you dont really get the benifit.

URAS : I get invites to those Wearcheck sesisons but their in Syd so i never go. I have been meaning to go for some time.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
Rev210,

3k or less oil changes.

Why so? UOA's showing breakdown?

Perhaps I'm paranoid :)

This method I got from mineral oil days so maybe I could extend the kms by oil testing to see how far I can go. But, I'd rather not ever see a test where there is contamination because I decided to save a few $ on oil changes. If there is crap in your oil the damage is done.

The oil's base stocks might be ok?, its abillity to keep the combustion polutants off the bearing surfaces and the other internal engine components is what I get concerned about.Dedicated Race oil doesn't have any suspension chemicals for catching these polutants because they bugger the oil off right after a meet and it gives slightly less friction for a little more power and protection. These additives do a mickey mouse job on a road car for normal road duties. Run up race car power numbers and stress and you have lots of combustion chemicals floating around it's pretty quickly rendered a useless advantage on a race motor in a race environment. The wear caused usuallly winds up in the fliter/ stuck to engine parts so your oil looks clean?

For maintenence I usually flush the block too. and its the stuff coming out that you want to add to a run through an oil analysis as well. Those that do oil analysis do you normally flush the block and take that stuff in too? I also cut my fliter open to get an idea of wear and the oils level of protection. I like to see less in the filter all things being equal with the filter doing it's job.

I could be living in the dark ages so I think this thread could have some interesting info. :thumbsup:

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted
As mentioned bu URAS is the earlier in this thread I used Wearcheck UOA and been doing this for some time with my redline (see oil thread). Bascially I have been able to run it much longer than 1-4k with a GTST at 270rkw. Base you OCIs on facts not on guess work. But I agree dont skimp on oil.

If you understand how filters, oil filters in particular, work you will release they dont get to their peak filtration under about 3-4,000km. You can work out what that means. In addition Ester based oils like reldine take some time for the addatives to get going. Chaging it ever 1-2k means you dont really get the benifit.

URAS : I get invites to those Wearcheck sesisons but their in Syd so i never go. I have been meaning to go for some time.

Chris your going to have to give me an oil lesson when I get my motor back together...

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I do have one major issue with the 300v chrono oil change issue. That is that after buying my 4 litre oil bottle and filter and changing the oil the oil level with only 4 litres is on the L line.

So off i go to Repco to buy my second 4 litre of Chrono 300v.

SO this oil change so far has cost me $210.

I do have 3 litres left over so that will give me 3 x $115 oil changes before i have to pay $215 again.

Major price for a oil change. I never would have spent this much on oil before.

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

ryco oil filter and Motul 4100 turbolight 5L, cost under $70 all up, plus adding a Grex (greddy) oil filter relocation kit, so that adds $170 right there :cool: oh well, make it easier on my non-kneeling knees.

change oil and filter every 3-4000 kms, dont go by length of time tho. makes it around 2 changes every 13months

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
I do have one major issue with the 300v chrono oil change issue. That is that after buying my 4 litre oil bottle and filter and changing the oil the oil level with only 4 litres is on the L line.

So off i go to Repco to buy my second 4 litre of Chrono 300v.

SO this oil change so far has cost me $210.

I do have 3 litres left over so that will give me 3 x $115 oil changes before i have to pay $215 again.

Major price for a oil change. I never would have spent this much on oil before.

Yes they make it so you buy an extra bottle...

gt-t_r34 Mentor

gt-t_r34

Posted
Posted (edited)

i use 300V 15w50 in my 32 its great and also change the oil filter every time with a new K&n filter and also i run the Motul engine clean thru it each time before i drop the oil... a spoilt 32 i have!!!! :P

costs about $ 140

Edited by gt-t_r34
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

you get what you pay for. but.. only if you really need it. i personaly prefer penrite.

and for referance most v8 supercars ust normal craptastic 20w50 mineral. ie stone brothers use caltex havoline 20w50 at $20 for a 5 litre botle :P

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

funny that hey Dave.

I just pulled down my 20,000k old GTR engine which has done more circuit laps than 90% of most forumers engines and there is stuff all bearing wear and nil bore wear. Quick hone and away it goes again.

I changed it after every 3 meetings I guess and it lived a happy life, only reason it came out was due to leaks.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
he builds race motors, and has alot of experience with rb motors. i trust him with my 500hp rb26 :D

i reckon he recomends an oil he makes the most on.... it the only logical explanation. The oil is very average and an oil analysis would be a great way to tell one way or another.. ..just to be sure.

URAS : I get invites to those Wearcheck sesisons but their in Syd so i never go. I have been meaning to go for some time.

Last tuesday was the last one, you gonna spew too.... it was in melbourne :D

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted (edited)
i reckon he recomends an oil he makes the most on.... it the only logical explanation. The oil is very average and an oil analysis would be a great way to tell one way or another.. ..just to be sure.

i beleive when i was told about it from him, as my friend uses it in his race 16v 4age? it was dew to us changing the oil after every track day! and cars only bieng used for race day only. And also i wasnt getting the oil from him.

i guess it would probably be better for me at the moment to use a synthetic like castrol formula r or whatever i used to use as my car is a daily driven thing but if i was to be changing every race then i may go about it differently, as said before most synthetics are at their best when a few 1000km old,

i didnt state to him that i daily drive my car

Edited by Angus Smart
  • 1 year later...
nemesis101 Apprentice

nemesis101

Posted
Posted

i have been using penrite(HPR 15, 15w-50) ever since i bought the car at 70,000kms....it has minor mods, 10psi, r34gtt SMIC, exhaust..... and its daily driven i pull around 700km a week.....and change the oil every 5000km's......

I have tried using motul turbolight 4100, and yes i do agree seeing a difference, car seems to be a little bit more responsive.....but at the end of the day....since my car is a daily driver, and i pull massive km's a week, penrite for me does the job well....and never ever had a problem with it....total cost $45($35 for oil, $10 for ryco oil filter)....

I recently tried penrite HPR30 20w-15, due to the summer heat and i want to reduce burning oil, and it proved to be too thick and the car was a complete slug.....so drained it out and used 15w-50 penrite HPR 15, and back to normal.......

So the grades will also determine how responsive the car will be

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

wow old thread

HPR30 is actually 20W60 will take some more time to warm up to temp.

shit for a street car and infact you will do more damange than good, just use a 10w40 for street

Ryco oil filters are pretty much the shittest you can get, see the Oil thread in general for more info.

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