Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, a coopers filter

Jst wanna say that 2-3days now and the oil pressure is perfect only a second after startup (even cold) compared to the drift filters 2-3seconds.

Ill try knn and/or greddy next time as well, but until the ill stick with my 'coopers' for 7bux

I know my car and the engine feels much more smooth when it wants to rev up..

  • Replies 154
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It was from

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

About half way down the page.

Hey,

Which site are you quoting there? Could definitely use that more detailed info to go into the oil sticky thread, the summary page is a little short of detail at the moment....could do with a detailed second post or similar...

problem with the real cheap filters can be that the insides of them colapse, or they just don't filter as fine. I have the Drift one in and don't have the issues with the pressure that Johnny has. Also the magnet in there adds that little bit of piece of mind.

Each to their own I guess though. Use what ever you think works best with your car :blink:

Jst wanna say that 2-3days now and the oil pressure is perfect only a second after startup (even cold) compared to the drift filters 2-3seconds.

Ill try knn and/or greddy next time as well, but until the ill stick with my 'coopers' for 7bux

I know my car and the engine feels much more smooth when it wants to rev up..

Interesting i did a wear check ages ago on a customers engine when testing the drift/ coopers/ kn filters and the drift came up with a far better filtration /vs startup pressure. i wonder if you were unlucky and got a "bad" one. Ive used nearly 75 odd drift filters now with zero issues and only warrant my "built" engines if they are used at every service.

Its funny as i just had to swap over a ryco Z411 (i didnt have a drift one left and could not get one there and then) on a customers Jzx100 as it was doing the same thing... fitted a drift one and problem fixed..... i think there is always a chance of getting a "problem" filter no matter the brand.

I always use 8100 in my 33, but think i might change to the Chrono. Use the DRIFT filters too and never had a problem, always slightly fill and soak the filter before i put it on.

You think Motul would give us shares or something with how many times they've been mentioned in this thread!

Interesting i did a wear check ages ago on a customers engine when testing the drift/ coopers/ kn filters and the drift came up with a far better filtration /vs startup pressure. i wonder if you were unlucky and got a "bad" one. Ive used nearly 75 odd drift filters now with zero issues and only warrant my "built" engines if they are used at every service.

Its funny as i just had to swap over a ryco Z411 (i didnt have a drift one left and could not get one there and then) on a customers Jzx100 as it was doing the same thing... fitted a drift one and problem fixed..... i think there is always a chance of getting a "problem" filter no matter the brand.

Hmmm it was really weird man, i was quite excited at the drift filter with the magnet and locknut at the top for easy fitting and removal but the oil pressure thing really got to me......i hope that it was only a bad one but i dont want to risk my engine on trial and error filters which may be good or bad.

Ive always bought heaps of drift gear in the past and everthing has broken: Gauges etc

Just to say that its not just a misunderstanding, creatd ms even told me it took too long for the light to turn off.

Im glad you've used over 75 now without issue but i just cant risk it again, knn or greddy for me in future.

  • 5 weeks later...

Just finished putting in motul 300v chrono!

Picked up a couple of bottles from Status Tuning.

The engine idles so smoothly and quietly now! Cant hear anything, well worth the money.

Status Tuning is having a group buy for 300v (only for victoria), have a look in the groupbuy section; i think they selling for $89 for 4ltrs

  • 2 weeks later...

I did my first (on this car) oil change on my R33 GTSt today and used Motul 8100 5-40 and a Drift magnetic filter as recommended in this here thread. Now my oil pressure is a little lower than it was previous to the oil change.

Can anybody confirm if the below (lifted from skylineowners.com) is correct (I searched this forum to no avail)?

If so, then I don't have a problem now and it just means my oil pressure was a little on the high side before.

According to the manual (in kg/cm2 same as the dash gauge) they are:-

RB20E is 1.0 at idle, 3.8@2000RPM and 4.8@6000RPM

RB25DE is 1.0 at idle, 3.3@2000RPM and 5.3@6000RPM

RB25DET is 1.0 at idle, 3.5@2000RPM and 5.6@6000RPM

RB26DETT is 1.5 at idle, 3.0@2000RPM and 4.6@6000RPM

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104627

Edited by TALBO

The oil you had in it was probably thicker than the 8100 you put in (and probably old). It will be fine. Climate and viscosity's of oils will affect oil pressures, don't worry about what the manual says.

  • 5 months later...

Some good news on the Mobil oil front - for those in Sydney .

There is a place at Legarno in southern Sydney that is planning to stock bulk supplies of Mobil 4T 15W50 synthetic and that's great news for me .

In time you should be able to rock up there with a clean oil container and buy 5 liters or whatever of this direct from I expect 44 gal drums .

Normally you can only buy this oil , if you can find it , in 4 or 1 liter containers which isn't price friendly for car use .

People I trust tell me that HRT used to use this stuff in their V8's and I think Porka specify it as well in some cases .

Stay tuned in a couple of weeks , cheers Adrian .

15w50 = too thick for a street car

i get all the fluids i need from...

www.performancelub.com - surpised it's not more well known.

where to people get their UOA's done and how much?

if that's edge sport, then it's even worse at it's not even synthetic. If you car saw the track all the time, maybe, but 10w60 is silly for the street.

I change between 0w30 and 5w30, 85K car with no changes to oil cooling (Most likely more) - You buy a real good oil like, Motul 300V, Redline, etc.. you choose a nice close number (the larger the difference, the more the oil is compromised from the start, to a small extent) For a street car where do you want the most protection? At start up and cold temps. So why run something as thick as 15w50? Oil theories have changed a lot since our cars were made and it doesn't mean we can't take advantages of those advances even if our cars are on the older side.

if anyone needs motul chrono 300V in syd I'm doing a group buy. and I'll even do 5 ltire lots of it too if you bring a container so you don't have to buy 6 or 8 litre like usual. prices are very good, a little better than the vic buy even I think. :D thread will be up shortly, but if you're in need send me pm.

  • 3 weeks later...
hi was wondering who ever runs e85 have you changed you oil to a thicker oil since it thinins it out. or keep t the same?? would it make much difference

Who told U that?

Petrol thins out oil if diluted in much the same way. I'm not sure of the boiling points of both but I know they're both lower than water.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...