Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know all the ins and outs but the cheapest/easiest option would be high-flowing the gtst turbo and keeping it a single setup.

I remember seeing a similar post years ago question the convert to 2 turbos on the 2.5, the response was that you may as well change the whole engine to the 2.6L, and if you're gunna do that, may as well sell and then buy a GTR

someone on this forum converting his rb20det to twin gtr setup. has extreme amount of lag and consequently is selling it. iirc it was fullboost at 6k rpm.

way too much mucking around for something that doesnt pay off

remember you'll have to have a lot of custom exhaust and intercooler piping work done, then a lot of mucking around with expensive oil and water lines

highflow is closest thing to bolt in , a slide highflow maybe require slight modification to an oil line? (but i dont believe these are available anymore). gcg maybe 100% bolt in, someone would have to confirm, -but low lag lots of power.

edit: i was assuming you were wanting to change to a twinturbo setup, i have no idea about using only one gtr turbo :sleep:

Edited by InterCooL

2 gtr turbos is not bad on a 25, i have the adaptor plates and parts to do it but the problem is running the engine with 2 afm. i am tossing up between this setup (which came from an rb20dett) and a hks gtrs. 2 totally different choices.

GCG - around 1900 (ball bearing)

bush bearing - 1200ish (some guy in sydney does them, forget his name, look up the member QURIOS or something similar)

they wont take your compressor wheel either.

there is alot more into it than just that.

they'll take your housings and bore them out. their hiflow housings dont just require a bigger wheel, and their whole cartridges come pretty much complete anyway and thats where 90% of the cost is.

you need to have a cartridge to support the shaft that will be spinning 150-200% faster at full song.

Edited by SECUR1TY
1 is brand new the other is machined old parts, common sense would say that the new one is the better option.

the only 'old' parts are the exhaust and compressor housings which get acid dipped anyway. everything else in a hiflow is brand spanking new.

the only 'old' parts are the exhaust and compressor housings which get acid dipped anyway. everything else in a hiflow is brand spanking new.

thanks for saying exactly what i just said but in a different way which meant the same thing..

thanks for saying exactly what i just said but in a different way which meant the same thing..

do you forget saying 'the new one is the better option'?, implying that a hiflow is not new, and not a better option.

choose your wording carefully.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...