Jump to content
SAU Community

Plz Look At My Dyno Readout

kay33

By kay33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

kay33 Collaborator

kay33

Posted
Posted

hi i hav a skyline r33 gtst auto, my mods are turboback exhaust, greddy fmic, blitz podfilter, greddy emanage, and dual stage boost controller, i recently put the e-manage in n got it tuned with new spark plugs. it dynoed at 194 kilwatts at 14psi, but as u can c in da readout ders a massive power loss, and den it shoots back up, my mechanic said ur cam timing is mostly likely out, i just wanted to know that when the cam timing is fixed if that is the problem, if i will gain more kilawatts, and secondly with the mods i have, is the kilwatts matching the mods i have?

post-35445-1186494725_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179979-plz-look-at-my-dyno-readout/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ok.

1. Back off the boost to 12psi at the most. 14psi WILL shorten the life of the turbo. Its been proven time and time again.

2. Its either timing is out, or the tune is shit. There are only two choices there... and its pretty dreadful at that.

Once its fixed, you back the boost off to an an acceptable level, you'll make around 180rwkw being the auto will suck a tad of the power

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
hi i hav a skyline r33 gtst auto, my mods are turboback exhaust, greddy fmic, blitz podfilter, greddy emanage, and dual stage boost controller, i recently put the e-manage in n got it tuned with new spark plugs. it dynoed at 194 kilwatts at 14psi, but as u can c in da readout ders a massive power loss, and den it shoots back up, my mechanic said ur cam timing is mostly likely out, i just wanted to know that when the cam timing is fixed if that is the problem, if i will gain more kilawatts, and secondly with the mods i have, is the kilwatts matching the mods i have?

why would the cam timing be out? have you had a new timing belt put on? i doubt its cam timing

That dyno sheet shows a massive loss in power, whats it like to drive on the street before and after the tune? does it feel like its hesitating? Your max hp is pretty much spot on for the mods, so i wouldnt really expect you to gain much more power, but that mid range definately needs to be fixed up, and you will notice a big difference on the street once that is done. Did you have a dyno reading before the tune? I cant believe someone would send that out the door and say its "tuned"

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

looks like R&R to me aswell.

it pulls a heap of timing out as soon as you hit 13psi and then when it tapers off again the ecu starts to behave again. I hope you did not get charged for that "tune" :P

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

could also be coils breaking down. ucd15r33's dyno sheet looked like that and he has a remapped ecu and a emanage. his car was missfiring and there was a coresponding drop in power, then it came good and boosted up again. i will post the graph of it soon.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted (edited)

hang on a second....

This is a auto yeah ?? then wait.. that graph may not be what it looks like... Think about it.. it starts at 70k's an hour and goes all the way up to 170.

Now correct me if i am wrong but a auto CANNOT do that in second gear. my car was auto when i got it. So i know.

I think what has happened is that the way the guy did the dyno run. that long flat spot would be where he backed it off to change gears and then when it settled in the gear he floored it again.

If you look in the middle of the line you can see it was going up a little then back down again.. that was done with the accelerator.

If the car did have a curve like that it would feel sooo sluggish till about 5000rpm and then come on very hard.

Its just the way he did the power run i wreckon.. I dont think its because of the tune. it could be but looking at that there must have been a gear change somewhere and this tuner may have been just looking to get a max power print out for his customer because max power is where its at these days!! lol

Seems soo easy for people to out and blame the tuner all the time.. tuner this tuner that.. rah rah rah.. maybe it was his fault for letting a crappy print out like that from his shop he could have done a ramp from 110ks an hour to 180 and get a better curve.. BUT i cant say that for sure there could be many reasons for why he did it this way.

Edited by Guilt-Toy
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

can you tell me what speed does your car change from second to third?? from memory i think it was at least around 120 - 130ks an hour right where the big power increase comes in and goes straight up.

I think i may be right on this one.. the only thing that confuses me a bit is the boost curve... may be boost controller related or maybe he did not back off the accelerator too much to bring it up to speed for the final power figure.

*shrug* i am open to any comments if anything thinks i am wrong. i have had a auto r31 skyline rb30e on the dyno and when it changed from first to second it felt like the dyno was going to top over the car nearly jumped off it (i was not driving the owner was i was just using the controlls) and the way i had to get the power run properly was to get him to drive it to 100ks an hour and then start the run from there in 3rd gear. Worked well.. 105rwkw

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

full power in third gear was using 10 - 12 psi as you can see where the power flats out on the power curve the boost went down to that level.

I think this tune may be good and if it is this car should feel pretty quick on the street.

Ok.

1. Back off the boost to 12psi at the most. 14psi WILL shorten the life of the turbo. Its been proven time and time again.

2. Its either timing is out, or the tune is shit. There are only two choices there... and its pretty dreadful at that.

Once its fixed, you back the boost off to an an acceptable level, you'll make around 180rwkw being the auto will suck a tad of the power

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

A auto with that much power on a dyno in second gear at full noise will come very close to jumping off the dyno ESPECIALLY when it changes to third gear.

I think it was the way the dyno run was done.

The only way we are going to know for sure is to get the owner of the car to tell us how the car drives on the street. does it pull hard from 2500rpm onwards all the way or does it feel dead and no ones home untill 5500rpm.

but at full noise in 2nd gear it should be making more than 120kw (closer to 195kw), and the boost should drop off as there wouldn't be as much load.

i still reakon it is a spark issue.

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted

the run was done in 3rd gear.

theres no spikes where it changed gear so that tells me that the tuner doesnt know about the magic brown plug, and hence he has slowly built the speed up past the point of no return for second gear and then he has planted it.

behind the driver side head light there is a group of electrical conectors.

find the brown one and unplug it.

this will lock the car in drive, so the tuner can then load up the car throughout the whole rev range without it kicking back to second and trying to kill everyone.

aprt from that power is ok but not great.

i had 187 from stock computer, stock auto.

sell the emanage and put a power fc on it...

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
A auto with that much power on a dyno in second gear at full noise will come very close to jumping off the dyno ESPECIALLY when it changes to third gear.

I think it was the way the dyno run was done.

The only way we are going to know for sure is to get the owner of the car to tell us how the car drives on the street. does it pull hard from 2500rpm onwards all the way or does it feel dead and no ones home untill 5500rpm.

thats exactly it.

or do what dangerman said and unplug the brown plug and get it on the dyno again.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

yeah i didnt think it was the tuners fault. i heard good things about this tuner in particular so if anyone reads this thread dont think he is a bad tuner. he is a good tuner he just does not know about the brown plug in the r33's to lock it in drive. (neither did i to be honest)

I am willing to bet the tune is good and the car would be fun to drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • GTSBoy
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...