Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I just bought a R32 GTR and i dont want to go all out and buy new turbo's. Only want 250awkw. Alot of people have said its worth replacing the standard ones or getting them rebuilt with steel wheels. Has anyone here rebuilt theres with steel wheels? How much did the whole thing cost? Also anyone recommended in the Brisbane area? After rough prices. Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181621-converting-to-steel-wheel-turbos/
Share on other sites

Hi I just bought a R32 GTR and i dont want to go all out and buy new turbo's. Only want 250awkw. Alot of people have said its worth replacing the standard ones or getting them rebuilt with steel wheels. Has anyone here rebuilt theres with steel wheels? How much did the whole thing cost? Also anyone recommended in the Brisbane area? After rough prices. Thanks!

Around the same price as what the smallest Garrett upgrades are for the RB26 :laugh:

So considering they only make 40-50rwkw more (with more boost obviously)

Your better off replacing them with those, and just not cranking boost into it. Same response as stock virtually.

Slide used to do a pair of highflows for $1600, and CRD and others do a pair of garretts for $2500. Non-slide high flows will probably be more expensive, as Slide had good prices.

I have some follow on questions, as my turbos have done 100,000km so i'm looking at these options.

- would a rebuild be about the same cost as a highflow?

- are there other ancillary costs when going to the garretts (mods to reduce oil flow? new lines?)

- how much different is the spool response? Nismoid, does "Same response as stock virtually" mean that the garretts are a tiny bit slower but its barely noticeable?

Yep there are a few, but not a great deal of cost in replacing the stock ones which are garrett anyway.

As you will need to remove the exhaust manifold you will need some new gaskets, copper washers for the oil and water lines to the turbos. also you will have to alter the bolt holes in oil return line, as they the new turbos for some reason are a few mm closer than the stock items.

New 2860-5 turbos have oil restriction in place so if you use these that is covered and stock lines match up.

Responce would be relevant to which turbo you choose, either 2860-5 or 2860-7 i believe that the -7 is roughly the same as a GT-SS and the 2860-5 simular to the HKS 2530. I have the 2860-5 and they spool roughly about 500 rpm higher than stock units.

you can pick these up new for about 1200 each with new actuators.

Ohh and about $8 for the largest box of bandaids you can get ( box of 500 will do )

As you will need to remove the exhaust manifold

Bugger...

Responce would be relevant to which turbo you choose, either 2860-5 or 2860-7 i believe that the -7 is roughly the same as a GT-SS and the 2860-5 simular to the HKS 2530. I have the 2860-5 and they spool roughly about 500 rpm higher than stock units.

500rpm is too much for me. How much are the -7s?

Ohh and about $8 for the largest box of bandaids you can get ( box of 500 will do )

You mean more bandaids than usual.....bugger again.

the 2860-7 i dont know, better some one who has installed them comments.

Forgot to mention the $50 for the WD40 to spray the exhaust manifold bolts for a week befor even attempting undoing one of them.

Is a very sad story on here about what i went through doing mine see if i can find it

HKS 2530's are a bit more than 500rpm, coming "on boost" is different to delivering peak psi.

They make in excess of 100rwkw more, they are not going to have "as similar" response at all.

GT-SS/-7's are so close to stock, and the 2530 (-5) dont really get going till around 4000rpm.

Ok so what you guys are saying is that you can purchase new turbo's for the same price as having your stock items high flowed or rebuilt with steel weels?

What boost is safe with the standard 130,000km old turbos? around 12-13psi? keep in mind the car isn't being thrashed. Just a squirt now and then.

Edited by gtrboosting

mate from what i know and i am sure to be corrected its a lottery. With 130k on them i wouldnt go any high than your current boost setting.

Some get away with running higher boost and there are plenty on here that have not. Scarey part is if they fail it can cost you your engine if you are unlucky.

hmm well i dont like the idea of buying a vehicle and instantly having to replace the turbos haha.. stupid turbos. I don't see why the turbo's go so quickly on the GTR's more then any other car? say a 180sx or gts-t. maybe 10psi will do :)

Edited by gtrboosting

not so sure they go so quickly on a GTR, if the boost was left at factory levels i dont think you would have a problem with the ceramic exhaust wheel. Its only when we up the boost that the problems can occur.

on any other single turbo car chances are when the rear ceramic wheel disintegrates it's not going to take your engine with it, however with the twin turbo there is a very good chance that parts of the turbine are going to be sucked straight back into the engine, and the price of replacing one turbo skyrockets to the price of the turbine and a complete engine rebuild :)

I have a set of R34 standard turbos that might be good for your application. They are a ball bearing T25(? I think) ceramic wheel turbo. They are said to be good for 17 PSI, they have no shaft play at all. Chasing 1k however im open to offers, with a good exhaust they will probably see better response then a rebuilt R32.

lol i don't know if i'd risk 17psi through them ian.. they're still ceramic wheels at the end of the day so really they're not that much better than the original r32 items..

from what gtrboosting has said it sounds like he's more after reliability than performance, and the best way to go about this would be either to get the original turbo's rebuilt/highflowed with steel wheels or just upgrade to newer, steel wheeled turbines..

basically what i'm trying to say is, ceramic turbines are shit :)

Well unless you want to reach a higher level of hp you are better off selecting the smaller of the two Garrett turbos. Have a look at the compressor maps (turbo by garrett website look up 707160-5 & 707160-7). Now whilst I am no great fan of the -7's efficiency if you want less than 400rwhp the -5 will be largely wasted in this application.

Oh & get some decent dump pipes whilst you are about it. No reason not to.

Lastly, going all out usually encompasses a little more than new turbos. :)

Edited by djr81
What boost is safe with the standard 130,000km old turbos?

Pretty sure the service manual states that the stock turbos should be rebuilt at 100,000 kms. Not following that is asking for trouble. You wouldnt run the cam belt past its service interval, so why do so with turbos? So i say no level of boost is safe as your operating outside the turbos service life. Of course, its all about risk...

ok theres no way of knowing if my turbo's have already been rebuilt though with out taking them apart right? If i get someone to check the turbo's for me and they are still in good condition i asume it would be safe to run more boost through them.

Edited by gtrboosting

If you are sufficiently concerned about it you can buy youself some second hand stock turbos off a car that has only ever run stock boost & with fewer kms. They can then be inspected/rebuilt/whatever to within an inch of their lives. Somewhat fortuitously I have some for sale... :(

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=178971&hl=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...