Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u know how u cut the top feed fuel rail off, did u block it off or route it somewhere else? didnt see in ur guide about that,and i dont really want to read through 12 pages!

  • 3 weeks later...

Can someone PLEASE help me out... Iv installed a front facing plenum(exactly to tutorial) and a large throttle body...

the car hasnt been started for 3months.

I finished the plenum today and did the coolant. the car idled fine for about 10mins then it just idled extremely low and sounded like shit then started struggling so i turned it off.

I tried to start it again and it made some funny noise and wont kick over and if it does it just idles really low and sounds really bad.

PLEASE help..

Someone told me it could be that the fuel has gone bad.. but it was fine for 10mins.

  • 1 month later...

Checked for vacuum leaks? Your car will idle a bit higher when you first start it, then once it settles if you have any vacuum leaks they will become apparent as the revs will drop and your car will start 'hunting', i.e revs will drop,drop,drop and then kick back up. Have a good look over EVERYTHING. Even if you havn't changed something you could have knocked a hose off or something equally annoying.

Do we need to plug both clips back into the AAC on the new plenum? the tutorial only says to extend the brown plug, so it reaches the AAC unit on the new plenum but the purple plug doesnt? do i just extend the purple clip or dont i need it?? Cheers, Chad

  • 2 months later...

hey im currently building an rb25 to put in my r32 skyline..just curios in all the pics posted the plenum sits very close to the r33 skylines clucth cylinder on the firwall..

an i know that a r32 skylines clutch cylinder is longer than the r33 one... so i want to know if anyone has fitted an rb25 with a greddy or greddy copy plenum to a r32 skyline and whether it hit the clutch cylider or the clutch line?

thanks

hey im currently building an rb25 to put in my r32 skyline..just curios in all the pics posted the plenum sits very close to the r33 skylines clucth cylinder on the firwall..

an i know that a r32 skylines clutch cylinder is longer than the r33 one... so i want to know if anyone has fitted an rb25 with a greddy or greddy copy plenum to a r32 skyline and whether it hit the clutch cylider or the clutch line?

thanks

You need to use a R33 clutch master in a R32, mine is fine with clearances after the R33 change over

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

hmm just bought a greddy copy plenum and one of my injectors is about 1mm off from one of the holes in the plenum and is stretching the seal a bit when the rail is bolted down.

Fingers crossed i don't get a air leak or i wont be happy.

Some advise. make sure everything fits before you paint your plenum because i dont think ill be able to send mine back now if it leaks.

  • 2 months later...

Right, time for this threads yearly revival.

I'm looking into getting one of these plenums for my 34, but I've read through all 13 pages and didn't find any conclusive answers to the differences between the motors. So. Has anyone installed one of these on a Neo? If not then I guess I will have to be a pioneer, but thought I'd ask first.

From what I can tell, the stock TB is out of the question, so I'm going to need an aftermarket one, correct? That's fine, given I've done away with TCS already. Any advice on brand, where to buy from, etc? What else do I need? Gasket, recommended place to buy?

Copy at this stage, more specifically the Autobahn ones because I've seen a lot around that are quite high quality. Unless anyone has any other recommendations? Have you got a link to the Jun style ones, are they decent enough quality?

*EDIT* This one you mean? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTT-NEO-RB25-R34-RB25DET-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-/230522764064?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ac3a3b20#ht_5173wt_905

For the price I could almost go genuine though...

Edited by Hanaldo

I posted in the forced induction section but only got one reply, if anyone else had similar issue can they share their experience

I purchased my car with a modified std plenum (throttle body cut and welded to the front), as im upgrading to a larger turbo and goin to push around 20psi shortly. I dint want any detonation problems caused by uneven distribution of air between cylinders that the plenum would (probably) cause.So over the long w.e i fited a Chinese GReddy plenum. The previous plenum setup ran perfect with my power fc (tuned for std turbo,injectors,afm,12psi) and even on the std ecu. With the new plenum fitted car fired up first crank,idle was abit rough though expected, when for a drive and there is a masive loss of power. Car is struggling to rev through the range, as if a shit load of timing has been pulled out (similar to R&R) but worse. Do you think it could throw the tune out because of the shorter runners and overall volume change ect of the new plenum, or have i done somthing wrong (followed the wright up in DIY). Like a big vac leak, all looms are pluged in,i used gsket goo between head and plenum but also reused factoty metal gasket. Holds boost fine. Also plugged std ecu back in idles perfect and drove allot better but not 100%.

Sorry for essay. What do you guys think.

Edited by dori33

You changed something pretty major and didnt get it tuned.. what do you expect?

The standard plenum is designed to recieve air in the centre, the Greddy style plenums are designed to recieve air from the front. This is why its not ideal to mod the standard plenum to front facing.

I'd suggest that your tune is out now because the cylinders are recieving air a bit more evenly. But having said that maybe you just missed something and have a VAC leak or some other issue

But I think a retune will fix alot if your stock computer is running the car O.K

I have an autobarn Greddy Copy. Been on the car for 2 years now, run 18psi through it for the last year without issues. Just spend some time prepping it before install

Yeh from what I can see, the Jun style ones on eBay look pretty high quality as well. Thing is, for $875 delivered, it would only cost $200 more to get a genuine Plazmaman...

Worth it?

Yeh from what I can see, the Jun style ones on eBay look pretty high quality as well. Thing is, for $875 delivered, it would only cost $200 more to get a genuine Plazmaman...

Worth it?

Don't get a Jun style one, stick with the Freddy!

Don't get a Jun style one, stick with the Freddy!

Doubt I'm gonna get the Jun style one, can't justify the price compared to the well known brands.

Freddy was the original plan, but they don't make them specifically for 34's... Seems like a lot of farkin around to get them to fit. After a bit of research, I'd also like to keep the standard runners, don't want to lose mid-range.

then plazmaman is your answer, They do sit quite high though which means its a tight fit with the strut brace.. I actually just swapped one over to a Greddy copy one because the owner didnt like it and said he had bonnet closing issues towards the throttle body I think he is wrong but none the less did the job because thats what im paid for..

Reason I suggested the Jun style ones was because you do have a higher initial outlay but u dont have to faff about with the iac from and may work out cheaper in the end..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...