Std R33 Turbo's

[QWK32]

Hi everyone. i have in my possesion two turbo's that have come off r33's. One i don't know what series it came off and its is labeled 45v3, i one i am told has come off a 97 series 2 r33 and it is labeled 45v2.

Now i have done some searching and from what everyone is saying that there is no difference in them. on a visual check they both look the same, but if you look at my attached pics they have different compressor wheels. and thats the only difference.

45V3

45V2

my questions are, is this normal? and will one perform better than the other?

thanks

[MANWHORE]

The lower one is a sII turbo, the top one is a sI turbo. IMO, I prefer the sII turbos. They seem to spool faster, and make more average power

[RANDY]

So from what i've read/heard, the later number is the later turbo... 1 and 2 came on series 1 and 1.5, v3 and v4 came on series 2's....

Series 2 has a nylon/plastic/whatever compressor wheel, thus it spools earlier/quicker.

I really thought the dual-fin was the series 2, to help spool lower down. Man, now i'm confused!

[MANWHORE]

nope, the dual blade is the sI - metal comp wheel. the sII is single blade bakelite (plastic)

[The Mafia]

are you wanting to set them up as twin or just to use one for your RB25?

Put the series 2 one on if thats the case

[swanny180]

I think its for an RB20 and I think hes only planning on using one

[Munkyb0y]

hold on a sec. 45V2 is the s1 turbo isnt it? i'm sure mine has 45V2 on it.

[benl1981]

i wouldnt go by the front cover no. that is unreliable.

[Japtastic-UK]

I've always been led to belive the S1 turbo can take more safe boost with a metal wheel (0.85) where as the S1 with plastic can only take 0.8 safely?

[rev210]

The compressor wheel is not the problem, both turbo's have a ceramic turbine wheel (the part the breaks).

[QWK32]

i've just stripped them down and come to the same conclusion as RANDY and MANWHORE. one is steel wheel and one is plastic. yeah is for an rb20, i already had the steel wheel one on there, and managed to get the other one fairly cheap so i grabbed it.

so the plastic one would be better to run, i.e quicker spool, better power? and would i be right in saying they would be very prone to blowing up if overboosted? safely boosted at 14psi on an everyday driver?

[Japtastic-UK]

Pretty sure that will blow within a very short time 0.85 bar being the upper limit on stock turbo, so around 12 psi

[QWK32]

thanks, i haven't had any experiences with the plastic compressor wheel turbo's.

[Fixxxer]

Most will argue that on an RB20 the 33 turbo is good for 13-14psi at the upper limit.

Fixxxer

[Lithium]

The compressor wheel is not the problem, both turbo's have a ceramic turbine wheel (the part the breaks).

The compressor wheel IS a problem on the S2s, quite a few people have had them break under duress. I'm one of those

[Japtastic-UK]

The compressor wheel IS a problem on the S2s, quite a few people have had them break under duress. I'm one of those

Any engine damage?

[QWK32]

don'tt think the bits would make it to the engine to damage it. just get stuck in the intercooler

[R31Nismoid]

Oh they make it to the motor, couple of people have had that issue.

[Japtastic-UK]

A LOT of people seem to forget that and turn their standard tubbie up to 0.85 in the false knowledge that if it blows it's only the turbo they have to replace.

[bubba]

Standard RB20 turbo on my RB20 ran absolutely fine at 14psi for a little over 6 months till I put a s1 RB25 turbo on there. Rb25 turbo is currently running 12psi due to lack of fuel at high rpm. New pump and remap and I'll turn it up to 14psi, I have no fears. Personally I believe the majority of failures are due to people winding the boost up without a full exhaust, the existing restriction in dump/front pipe/cat combined with the extra gasses being forced through heats up the turbine/housing a fair bit.. when my stock cat shat itself, dislodged and blocked up, my turbine housing (rb20 turbo) would glow almost transluscent red.