Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well I figure since you drive it hard the dogbox is probably the smart choice for you. should be good fun when it's set up with the ign cut shift too. :P

i wish i was "allowed" to get one too...

ive got an Autronic SM4 with ignition cut shift too, coupled with a straight cut dog box would be heaven.

life is so unfair....or should that be "wife" is so unfair?

Disclaimer: although the above post was made on this account, it is not necessarily Paul that wrote it. Just incase Stacey is reading it.

what problems did you have with the ppg? and what bits needed replacing? did you have an ignition cut on the ecu for gearchanges? and did you use the clutch with it?

once this gearbox is in. it will be 70/30 track/street. thats what lary the laser is for :(

I broke 2 small input shafts, lay shaft bearing and need to replace 2nd gear. No ignition cut. I always double clutch on downshift on the race track and during slow driving around the street

Hey Guys still trying to get used to the box, just a qwuick question. When your just driving around normally(not on the track) do you find that you have to shift slowly and in 2 stages rather than just trying to smash it in like you would when flat out??

As it seems to be wearing in it is becoming a little harder to use around town.

Cheers guys talk soon

Matty

I found the same thing. The delay from shifting in 2 stages allows the gears speeds to match. I find double clutching on upshift (and down shift as well) on the street doesn't produce any noise what so ever during shift.....very gentle and graceful. Flat out driving there is only one joyful way of doing it as R33 racer stated. However I still have occasional trouble with 1-->2nd and often use the clutch for this. Does anyone have any special trick with 1-->2nd?

cool. yeah i would be getting the larger input shaft option. and all brand new bearings. and also will be making a spraybar for inside the gearbox to directly spray oil on each gear. havent quite got it started yet. either using a pump of the tailshaft or an eletric one.

do the straight cut gears suffer from lubrication issues in the gtr casing?

matty

when we are just chugging around, i have found being really forceful with the change is best. If i just lazily put it into gear in most cases it will chatter on the dog gears and feel rather harsh. best to be acertive with it even at slow speeds.

cheers russ cya soon , congrats again mate on the pittsworth win!!

Cheers guys was a good weekend. Yeah i suppose experience with it is the only way to figure it out properly. Im finding that when im just "chugging around" and try changing forcefully it jars my wrist every time as it seems to jump before it engages. How long did it take you to get it into 3rd 1st time everytime?? I keep seeming to either get 1st or 5th lol.

Cheers

Talk soon

Something else to watch out for is oil being pumped out the breather. I run straight cut ppg with redline light weight shock proof oil and i have problems with the oil coming out the breather. Does anyone else have the same problem with there box? I added a longer hose and run it up into the engine bay to the highest point not the best solution but it has stoped losing oil. I think i might have to pull the box down and install a shield where the breather pipe is.

with the breathing thing I know john runs on both diff and gearbox basically an expansion tank. so he runs the breather up to a small tank which is ventilated. the GB oil can be thrown up into this little tank, then drain back into the box. basically just like the radiator expansion tank. seems like a good, simple idea. could be worth a go.

33 racer which oil do you use? If the breather problem can be solved down in the gearbox instead of further up in the pipe we can have a breather that will do what it designed for... What i thinks happening in my box is the light weight shock proof is very sticky and the gears are flicking it up onto the roof of the gearbox then with slight pressure the box create it pushes it up the pipe. Now im not sure if we have enough room above the gears to install something like a baffle to deflet some of the oil away from the breather. Does anyone have a box thats in pieces at the moment to check out if this is possible?

were using the shock proof light i think it is, the blue one which ppg recommended for the box.

We dont have a box in pieces unfortunately, however i reckon the mini catch can with drain back would work well for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...