Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a gt-k 500 for my s15, im in the same boat as u are, yet to even put motor into car....

these turbos are supposed to spool up a minimum of 30% earlier that a garrett turbo that is 1 size bigger.... and turbonetics underrate thier turbos....

the gt-k850 you have there is rated to a minimum of 850 horsepower....

the dudes in the states recon that my engine setup on the sr20 will make 480hp at the wheels quite easily on aussie pump fuel..... abit crazy in a s15 but i love it... :mellow:

what power you aiming for???

Edited by den001

There's not really a power aim anymore! i was literally about to purchase an HKS TO4z kit, when i was told these were just about to come out. before i was aiming for around 460rwkw with the TO4z based on others' results. Apparently the GTK will push out more power with similar response to the TO4z, well at least thats the idea, its certainly rated higher. I think the GTK850 is like a T51R KAI, but with a 0.8 ex housing so should be decent response. Id be more than happy if we could see 800hp at the engine, but with a 0.8ex housing, i wouldnt bet on it, on race fuel maybe, but on pump, we will see.

rb26s13, you wont have to wait till its in the car to see results :) Its getting run-in then tuned on an engine dyno, so i will have a true "at the engine" HP figure. Im waiting on my Nismo plenum from greenline, then wiring up the motec. Once the plenum has arrived, if the workshop isnt flat out shouldnt be too far off.

cheers!

Yeah i figured the engine dyno run in would be pretty safe, plus i want to know as close as possible the actual engine output, without having to convert back from the wheels. Any one else done this on a new motor?

The Nismo plenum's in the mail, but have been discussing a single throttle plenum with my engine builder..

seems to be a large range, from under a grand for a greddy plenum, up to 3grand plus for a Jun. You get people swearing by a single throttle setup with a big single turbo, but then you get those showing big HP figures running a STOCK plenum.. So its a bit confusing. I recall Sydneykid telling me that with a MAP sensor based ECU such as what ill be using, that a single throttle will be much easier to tune.

Im just wondering if theres gonna be much of a trade off, 6throttle vs single throttle response wise? End of the day, the things built for power, so a single throttle makes sense. But its also more money, considering ive already bought the nismo plenum :mellow:

looks amazing bud :laugh:

hypertune now make a 6 throttle plenum, but theres no way in hell im paying the ~2.2k for a plenum :P

plus, the std's been shown to cater for big hp cars, just requires some fine tuning of the rear 3 injectors

P.S whats the pricing on them turbo's like?

  • 9 months later...

hi guys,

yet some more final touches... blk180 youre right, the hypertune plenum was the way to go!

heres from last time

gtrengine002.jpg

and today... the cam covers were colour matched to the turbonetics compressor housing. For some reason the camera flash makes the dark metallic paint on the turbo look whitish grey in the pics, but in real life its exactly the same as the cam covers appear below, nice.

allan_006a.jpg

and now i await the dyno...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...