Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For slotted RDA rotors, you're looking around $350 (retail) front and $240 (retail) rear, don't know part numbers. If you have contacts you might get cheaper, but even those prices aren't too bad.

iv' done the pads and machined the rotors

the brakes still feel shit..

i think i might have to go bigger with GTST brakes and slotted rotors

theres a How To for an upgrade to front R32 GTR rotor and Calipers. Pretty easy and quick upgrade....you just need to get some large inner washers made. The other problem is if you have the Stock AR-X rim's the will not fit after the upgrade.....good reason to change wheels :D ....If you have other rims I don't mind meeting up so you can try one on my car to see if you can fit them over the callipers.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...l&hl=brakes

  • 2 weeks later...
Later m35 models 2004 i've seen up on jspec now?

350 models tho with 6 speed manuals.. i know its not the turbo version but anyone driven one?

is compliance available?

Read this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Em...Im-t265649.html

Apparently there is one car complied and on the road in SA. I would personally like to see the car myself to believe it.

Thread no good? i understand it was only up to 2003 for stagea.. but this was for the 2.5 turbo correct?

i'm pretty keen to find out :blink: business is going swell and i want a m35 for delivery/promo car

Edited by Angus Smart
Thread no good? i understand it was only up to 2003 for stagea.. but this was for the 2.5 turbo correct?

i'm pretty keen to find out :blink: business is going swell and i want a m35 for delivery/promo car

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, interesting. The thread has been removed. What does that mean?

No idea then if the NA M35's can be complied or not.

At the moment, the M35 with VQ25DET (turbo) can be complied up to Oct 2003 production. Dast this manufacture date and it can not be complied.

There was a whole thread about the NA M35 with VQ35DE, 2004 model on being able to be complied but it has been removed.

Glad to hear business is going well.

I've read the thread your talking about Andy....My thoughts....until I actually see with my own eye's a VQ35 powered M35 Stagea drive past me with NSW registered plates I would not even consider the option....and even then I would probably try to stop the guy and chat about it. I am not saying that the VQ35 powered cars are not a good thing either.

IMO this whole debate on compliance is a load of bullshit. Why can a 350Z, V35, Maxima and even the Pathfinder get compliance but the VQ35 Stagea cannot.

I watch shitbox mitsashitty's and falcodores blowing smoke like there is no tomorrow driving though Sydney eveyday and there no complaints. Then on the other side I see a Toyota Prius that is firstly no where near as safe and by the end of it's life cycle produces more of a carbon footprint....WTF. Bureaucratic bullshit.

P.S. Sorry I have this shits that CRUD has just sent me a letter saying here's $900 for doing f**k all. Don't get me wrong the $900 is great, but does it really stimulate the economy???? Or is the whole country just about to fall over again?

The VQ35 M35 6 Speed will be sitting around for emissions testing if someone is suckered into importing one, after a couple of calls today no one will look at importing for compliance a VQ35 M35 Stagea.

Below is a list and phone number of all RAWS approved to import a M35 so people can get the full picture from the workshop them self.

PVP IMPORTS AUSTRALIA

08 82697769

MOBILITY ENGINEERING

02 9482 4572

DOWN UNDER AUTO SERVICES

08 9409 8887

SHOGUN CAR COMPANY

07 38811772

VERSION ONE AUTOIMPORTS

02 96667369

SHAMOND INDUSTRIES

07 3393 0589

CARMEN IMPORT CENTRE

07 3881 1800

ENVY IMPORTS

02 9907 4144

NORTHSHORE PRESTIGE MOTORS

02 9948 5302

IAMSHE

07 55717133

SOUTHERN SPECIAL VEHICLES

03 9543 3722

PERFORMANCE AND PRESTIGE IMPORTS

02 95424280

JAPANESE PERFORMANCE VEHICLES

03 97986110

TRANSCAR

03 9309 9930

ADR MODIFICATIONS

03 9391 8239

AUTOTERMINAL

07 3200 3455

SUMO PERFORMANCE CENTRE

03 9878 7827

NAGOYA MOTORS

02 95249573

POLAR AUTOSPORTS

040 4831886

CONCEPT DESIGN AND FABRICATION

08 9493 7571

Yeah no problem,I've read thru that thread a while back when i was thinking of bringing in one ages ago.. but couldnt afford it when the gtr took a bite of the bank.

these m35's i think are also only rwd too? or the manual gearbox is a 4wd type?? i cant remember reading up on the specs with a manual 4wd.

a manual m35 stagea would be great :thumbsup:

otherwise i'll settle for an Axis m35 when i come across a good example.

Edited by Angus Smart

Just confirming that these pad numbers will fit M35 AR-X

Rda also do nice semi metallic brake pads, MUCH better than standard, not dusty

Front; RDB1232SM (Listed as Maxima front pad)

Rear; RDB1509SM (Listed as X-Trail rear pad)

Around $30 per end, to be honest, wasn't expecting great things given the price. Quite impressed, good bite from cold, haven't hammered them, but no fade so far. (unlike standard pads, three good stops, no more bite) :P

im going to give Bendix HDs a go on the front & Bendix 4WD on the rear.

I have Bendix Ultimate's on the Front and Hawke HPS on the rear.

Whilst the Bendix stops very well it is very dusty!!!!. The Hawkes on the other hand stop very well and are not dusty at all.

The Hawks are not cheap (especially if bought locally) but they are very good.

Cheers

Andy

Snow / Syncro buttons

Syncro = 50/50 split up to 40 kmp/h then it goes back to normal.

Snow = 50/50 split up to 40kmp/h but starts in 2nd gear and reduces boost.

P.S. Information provided by the very knowledgeable Andy :P

yeh the ultimates are dusty and noisy. Thats why i steered away from them, besides this is our family car that the wife drives.

I have Bendix Ultimate's on the Front and Hawke HPS on the rear.

Whilst the Bendix stops very well it is very dusty!!!!. The Hawkes on the other hand stop very well and are not dusty at all.

The Hawks are not cheap (especially if bought locally) but they are very good.

Cheers

Andy

yeh the ultimates are dusty and noisy. Thats why i steered away from them, besides this is our family car that the wife drives.

QFM A1RM are quiet, dust free (LMX5's show brake dust worse than white wheels!) and perform bloody well.

They seem to be kind to rotors and have a pretty good life span

Whole set (front & rear) cost me $191 delivered.

Found them to be MUCH better than Ferodo or Bendix (which I think are WAAAAYYY over-rated).

Edited by iamhe77

thats quite cheap! now if i could find cheap slotted rotors id buy all this stuff pretty soon!

does anyone REALLY care that much about dust? if they stop better im happy to have dirty wheels, its not like we all wash our cars every week. well, i dont :(

thats quite cheap! now if i could find cheap slotted rotors id buy all this stuff pretty soon!

does anyone REALLY care that much about dust? if they stop better im happy to have dirty wheels, its not like we all wash our cars every week. well, i dont :(

Gotta say, I REALLY care about non-dusty pads.

Especially after helping my mate clean all the black "dust" from his Work rims (He has the Endless calipers and pads - quite dusty).

Black "dust" does not aid the appearance of Nismo LMX5's either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...