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QUOTE (STAG250 @ 29 Oct 2008, 07:41 PM) *

A heads up re high stop light. I failed WOF today because of it and learned from Nissan that there is only a full top panel replacement above the tailgate window. Cost to you sir? $425 NZD. $300 2nd hand. f**k that s@#t. Managed to pass after some messing around and busting into the sealed unit but a precautionary tale should you be in a likewise unhappy situation.

:) to whoever thought up that nonsense in Japan

just got back from having the resistors and diode replaced on circuit board and all is sweet again

total cost $40:40 parts/labour

Should any of you need to do same the resistors are rated at 2.62v but I replaced with 2.7's and this is ok. I also was recommended to replace the diode and this the Auto Electrican supplied.

Btw it's a delicate operation removing inside panel to get access to nuts and bolts holding the led light assembly on. Be careful not to break it.

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Ford-land? You sir have just crossed the line! ;)

Actually find that the gears being the other way around (down = accelerate, up = decelerate) comes more naturally as you are pushing the lever in the same direction of G force.

ie, When accelerating, G forces push you backwards into your seat, thus instead of fighting and pushing the lever forward against these forces, I would prefer to pull it back. I do believe that this is the general setup for non-paddle semi-automatics in the racing world (WRC, v8 Supercars etc).

It just feels natural to me, as opposed to having to think about changing with the current directional setup. That is why a rarely use my tiptronic.

Sorry mate, wasn't intending to label anyone. I happened to also notice on the weekend that the V8 supercars (the sequential shift ones) have it the way you describe as well - and thats when I realised the whole G-forces thing.

You see I rarely use the tiptronic just because I dont find the gear shifts quick enough to make it worthwhile.

But now that the above has been explained I stand corrected and agree with the logic. Cheers :D

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thnx for that

mine are warped and was told that fronts cost $300 and rears $150 but will check tomorrow the prices for those4 you mention

Hey I was told mine were warped and I had the discs machined during compliance.

It still makes a funny grinding noise very briefly when I take off from a standstill sometimes - and there is noticeable vibration at the rear when travelling at over 80km/h...

would this be the same issue? My other feeling is that maybe I just need a good wheel alignment on it.

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I guess they warp because the car is under braked yes?

Brake rotors are prone to warping on all automatic cars because when a car is brought down to a stop, such as at a set of traffic lights, the brake is used to hold the car in place. Because there is already heat in the brakes from slowing the car, and the fact that all that heat is concentrated in one spot on the rotors while the car is at a stand-still, the rotors are softer in that area and more likely to be pushed out of shape.

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then youd get that on ALL cars. using the gears to slow down in a manual doesnt take all that much from the brakes. and youre still on the brakes when youre at a standstill :P

the key is to let you brakes warm up before you go stomping on them from 80km/h

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then youd get that on ALL cars. using the gears to slow down in a manual doesnt take all that much from the brakes. and youre still on the brakes when youre at a standstill :P

the key is to let you brakes warm up before you go stomping on them from 80km/h

Depends how hard the owner/driver is on the brakes. True, using the gears in a manual isn't a total solution, but it does help. If I've been hard on the brakes I use the handbrake when I come to a complete stop. I had a (manual) Corolla for over a decade and never had to replace front rotors.

fact is this is the first car I've had this problem with and then I 'm told they're under braked anyway

Yeah, underbraking would be a factor. My cousin owns a Prado. I'm not sure how hard she is on the brakes, but it suffers from pretty bad brake shudder.

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  • 2 weeks later...
QUOTE (STAG250 @ 29 Oct 2008, 07:41 PM) *

A heads up re high stop light. I failed WOF today because of it and learned from Nissan that there is only a full top panel replacement above the tailgate window. Cost to you sir? $425 NZD. $300 2nd hand. f**k that s@#t. Managed to pass after some messing around and busting into the sealed unit but a precautionary tale should you be in a likewise unhappy situation.

:( to whoever thought up that nonsense in Japan

just got back from having the resistors and diode replaced on circuit board and all is sweet again

total cost $40:40 parts/labour

Should any of you need to do same the resistors are rated at 2.62v but I replaced with 2.7's and this is ok. I also was recommended to replace the diode and this the Auto Electrican supplied.

Btw it's a delicate operation removing inside panel to get access to nuts and bolts holding the led light assembly on. Be careful not to break it.

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Hey Stag250

Im interested in your repair of the high stop light.

Once you removed the actual light panel from the car, did you access the LEDs by cutting through the bottom of the black plastic strip? Or, were you able to remove the red lense from the black strip, and then access the LEDs?

Strange that this has failed on two cars.

Thanks

Murray

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Hey Stag250

Im interested in your repair of the high stop light.

Once you removed the actual light panel from the car, did you access the LEDs by cutting through the bottom of the black plastic strip? Or, were you able to remove the red lense from the black strip, and then access the LEDs?

Strange that this has failed on two cars.

Thanks

Murray

Yeah it was through the black strip. My friend has an old surgical saw so I was able to cut a rectangle out of it and access the LED's. We pulled the cable through and pulled the LED assembly out to get access to the resistors. Re-assembled and sealed it up.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, first post here,

I had a look at an M35 Stagea today and took it for a very brief spin up the road and back. Didn't seem very quick but the boot is huge which is just what we need. I loved the car, this one had leather and dual sunroof although they also had a silver one offsite without leather or sunroof. I think i'd prefer the silver to the blue.

Had the TV screen in Japanese. Has anyone managed to find a DVD with local maps yet?

Also didn't have the three gauges but had an in dash 6 stacker instead. What are the gauges? I'm guessing Boost, Oil Temp and Volts? Can someone confirm this as the dealer said he can put the three gauges back in I prefer them.

I wouldn't be buying this to modify really, its going to be the family wagon. The only things i'd do is change the tiptronic switching around, and hopefully get the TV/NAV function working properly (if thats possible).

Cheers,

Jono

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if its an RX or ARX model then its a bit of mucking around to get the gauges back in. if its an RS, then youll have no problems probably.

there is no disc for satnav, nor will there probably ever be.

the tv can be made to work easily with an external tuner, do a search on here for more info. its been covered many times before!

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cheers, yeah its just the RS model. Can anyone confirm what the gauges are?

I've been doing a lot of reading on here about the car. I guess i'll have to get the tv tuner and just have tv, no sat nav. oh well.

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actually the NAV can be fixed. pressing the map button will bring the new system in. I do these for a living.

where are you?

theres not a lot thats NOT possible with these. I'm working on a cruise setup for these cars as well. it will take the place of the blank silver tabs on the wheel.

gauges are volt,boost and oil temp (unsure on the last one - I see more of the integrated dash cars.)

as for pulling the 6cd out and popping guages back in - yep VERY doable. the harness is there regardless of the dash fitted.

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Cheers for the reply, I'm in Sydney. I think i would prefer the gauges than the 6 stacker, i could always upgrade the single DIN unit for something better anyway. I didn't check this particular car for the Bose sub in the wheel well, one of their other models had the sub and the integrated 6 stacker.

So whats the go with the NAV? What is the new 'system' to be brought in? Upgrade DVD?

Cheers,

Jono

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