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Different car sure, but the thing about mass production is making things as similar as possible across the model range is the cheapest approach. I reckon the ECU's will function in the same way. Will search for the thread.

have a look through here http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43 ...you might be able to you ECU pinout and translate it to find the correct wire.

Edited by Jetwreck

Cutting the wire in ours made the car sluggish after a while in some sort of limp mode, those of us with emanage controllers saw it possibly running lean so it may not be the answer just yet.

my case i think.. but arent sure.. just had a quick retune and everything came out better than before..

I plan on installing a switch.

So I can actually launch and then turn it back on again.

I actually asked this in another post, but where does the BPP wire connect as an input? Is there a switch on the brake pedal with one wire for brake lights and one for the ECU? If so I'd just attack the issue at that end rather than trying to do it from an ECU pinout diagram (that I can't find pinch.gif )

Edited by chad bob

Q: Can some one please inform me of a suitable jacking point/points at the front of an M35 so I can work on the front suspension...

I only use the front jacking point under the passenger seat usually, then chock the rear jacking point with a stand, another stand under the front lower control arm bush. Then I move the jack to another spot so its not in the way but still under the side rail for fall protection.

Mirror then for the other side but you will need 4 stands.

I guess this falls under general info.

Don't bother trying to do a burnout in your RWD M35. Computer says no.

It will limit revs to about 1500rpm and you will sit there doing absolutely nothing. :domokun:

Before anyone asks why one would bother. Was at the gokart track and it's manditory to do a skid whilst exiting.

What? lol No problems here..... Toyo T1R 245/45/18s.... Easy spin. Just needs a 2 way.

hey boys,

My stag is geting some TLC done on monday as in diff front rear, trans, transfer case, radiator fluid and I have

decided to go with nissan oil (7.5-30w)/ filter combo and of course flush beforehand.

Is there anything else I should replace? Wondering about timing belt/ water pump and plugs when should that be done.

Car has 75ks on the dial.

Also you know those three dials in the dash torque? battery, boost. The first one seems like its not moving at all is that normal?

Please forgive my lack of knowlidge some of take this as common stuff.

Thanks for your feedback. :thumbsup:

Dave

If you do a flush its good practice to dump the new oil after a few hundred so as you never get it all out. Just put some cheapie oil in there for a few days.

M35 doesnt have a cam belt its a chain, water pump should be fine but plugs will probably be shagged.

Dash torque gauge will only move a little on breaking traction or high G's as our cars are rear drive for the most part.

Thanks for clearing that up Scotty it all makes sense now. :rolleyes:

Do you think that nissans 7-30w oil is good choice, whats everyone else using?

I know 300v is best which I use in gtr but 90 for 4 lt is a bit rough for frequent oil change.

nissan is 55 bucks for 5 lt.

Cheers

Dave

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