Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the generally unplug the switch on the stalk. there is a small cutout at the back of the indicator stalk, remove and plug it back in.

if you have an aero model with the driving lights in the front bar, the 'I/II' switch next to the headlight height adjustment toggles between the bumper lights and the ones in the headlight unit.

Thanks for that. The car hasn't been complied yet but I'll check that switch tomorrow. I did find today that the drivers side fog light wasn't plugged in. I also had a problem with none of the lhs indicators working at all. After a few hours checking everything I found that someone in Japan had cut a wire behind the drivers kick panel, I joined it back up and now all indicators are working. Very weird as to why they cut it.

Edited by slippylotion

ok so im picking up my RX Four (stock standard) yucky.gif from Edward Lee's in sydney with in the next week, after owning a W34 and loving it just curious to find out

1. Whats the best wheel combo to get (size and width)

2. is there a AUX 12V socket in the rear like on the W34?

will post up a some pic's when i pick her up from compliancing and registration

please please PLEASE have the car throughly checked by an INDEPENDANT inspection place. a mechanic, hell anyone that knows anything about those cars.

if possible, dont buy it from there

anyway, 18 as a minimum i would get in wheel size

no there is no 12v output in the boot, unless the dealer (in japan) has fitted one

Thanks for that. The car hasn't been complied yet but I'll check that switch tomorrow. I did find today that the drivers side fog light wasn't plugged in. I also had a problem with none of the lhs indicators working at all. After a few hours checking everything I found that someone in Japan had cut a wire behind the drivers kick panel, I joined it back up and now all indicators are working. Very weird as to why they cut it.

I'm willing to bet that you have, or had, the mirror covers with the LED indicators.

When I picked mine up from having the alarm replaced, the indicators weren't working on the LHS except the LED ones, which flashed quickly. Found the problem was a wire behind the drivers kick panel had been cut by the scotch lock they used to connect the LEDs in the mirrors to the indicator lines.

Soldered up, all good! :thumbsup:

please please PLEASE have the car throughly checked by an INDEPENDANT inspection place. a mechanic, hell anyone that knows anything about those cars.

if possible, dont buy it from there

anyway, 18 as a minimum i would get in wheel size

no there is no 12v output in the boot, unless the dealer (in japan) has fitted one

had a mate who is a mechanic go over it with a fine tooth comb he has worked with quite a few m35's in the past another mate of mine works at a body shop and can pick resprays really well, this one came through very well amazingly. very straight and mechanically no issues, was f.o.b when i spotted it while searching around the area. (arrived 30th june) still had quarantine stickers on her

what width wheel is recommended? looking at 9-10 inches

had a mate who is a mechanic go over it with a fine tooth comb he has worked with quite a few m35's in the past another mate of mine works at a body shop and can pick resprays really well, this one came through very well amazingly. very straight and mechanically no issues, was f.o.b when i spotted it while searching around the area. (arrived 30th june) still had quarantine stickers on her

what width wheel is recommended? looking at 9-10 inches

9.5 max...I don't know anyone running 10's on our cars...

Ideal sizes are 9+30 or 9.5+35 And I think it was 8.5+22 in the diameter your happy with. I found that the 9.5+30 only leaves about 3mm between rim and suspension link arm. I chose 9+30 as it sits the same in relation to the guard lip but has more room inside to the suspension arms.

if you wanted something abit "drift Spec"

you could probably go 9+25? should stick out about 5 mm, with some stretched tires and rolled guards. would look awesome! ive got 8+22 and i have about half an inch- 1 inch clearance to the guard which means i could space em out abit.

9+25 would look gooooood

you'd think so lol, but the plastic covers are just clipped into the stock fenders you have. so i cant run anymore offset than you.

although when i rolled my guards i did hack up the covers. and it came up great/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...