Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest 40th-edition

my vehicle has knocks in rear since i bought it so put on hoist the other day to give it a good looking over.

found the inner rack end on both sides has about 3mm play.. it was about even on both sides so i was wondering if this is normal or not??

anyone know? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186670-rear-tierods-excessive-play/
Share on other sites

yes, story of my life!! f**king things. i still havent got round to doing mine cos the driveshafts are siezed in lol. you need a press. from ones ive done before it takes 5ton to get them moving and then a solid 1.5-2 tone to push them out. so a gear puller aint gonna do it lol

Guest 40th-edition

the problem is the inner and maby outer rear rack ends.

i checked the balljoints, its when you pull out on the back of the tyre.

the HICAS lock bar uses the joints still?? doesnt it?

where would i find them aftermarket?

thanks heaps for the help, cheers

the problem is the inner and maby outer rear rack ends.

i checked the balljoints, its when you pull out on the back of the tyre.

the HICAS lock bar uses the joints still?? doesnt it?

where would i find them aftermarket?

thanks heaps for the help, cheers

yeah the lock bar uses the existing rack ends, just replaces the rack, so if the ball joints are shagged the lock bar won't help.

I've only had inners die on me. T04GTR has on going issue with the outer ones from memory.

ive had a couple of inner ones die on me in my cefiro, but not the R32... go figure, both cars see a lot of track use, and the hicas arm really does seem to be fairly weak.

I have heard that R33 ones fit into an r32 and are bigger/stronger? Can anyone shed some light?

If you like frigging around you can press out the ball joint and fit a s13 type bush, convert to a s13 c-shape rack end bracket and use a threaded tie rod end knuckle. I made a set up using R33 front tie rods for extra strength and used moon face spiro-bush inserts instead of the rubber bush.

i will cobble together a rough pic in paint :D

post-34927-1191218018_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...