Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some might probably remember this same car having a RB26/30 and a powerglide dummied up in it,

but after some calculations it was soon realised that this combination was going to cost tens of thousands

of dollars to complete the engine alone. So the engine & transmission were sold and the project put on hold.

Six months later i came across a low Km LS1 and Tremec 6 speed. For a laugh on a saturday arvo a friend and I thought

we would see if it would even look like fitting, the joke soon became a reality.

Factory Nissan engine mounts were used on the cross member, block to mount brackets were fabricated.

The sump did not need any modification. The factory power steer rack was removed and a VL manual rack was fitted to allow for starter motor clearance. VX Commodore 1&3/4" into 3" extractors were fitted with slight mods, just had to tuck them in a bit. PWR Radiator to suit R32 was purchased and custom shroud and fan fitted. Gearbox crossmember was fabricated

as well as custom tailshaft with masive F100 front Uni. Jim Berry supplied custom clutch and flywheel. Factory LS1 wiring harness will be fitted.

Custom fuel cell was modified to house two Bosch 040 intank pumps and plumbed up with speedflow fittings through a Russell

inline filter into turbosmart reg.

I plan on running the engine aspirated at first with just a cam and valve spring change. Should make 350kw at the wheels.

Hope to fit twin Disco potatoes later down the track.

post-20078-1191449175_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449345_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449459_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449625_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449987_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450111_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450218_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450440_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450656_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191451384_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191451951_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187852-r32-ls1-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It took about 4 hours to mount the engine and box, about the same to mount the rack. the headers took a couple of hours to modify, fuel system took about 8 hours. still have to wire it but that shouldnt take to long. could easily do it in a week if you didnt have to wait for parts to be made, eg clutch, tailshaft, radiator etc.

;) how long did it take from the initial fit to turning the key?

whats a proper V8? it makes you wonder why its been done heaps if Ls1s are shit. but u know what your talking about, ill pull it out tonight.

man it's been done heaps, ls1's are shithouse should of got a proper v8... afterall it's a holden.... but either way nice work....
Edited by BezerkR32
Nice work mate.

How did the weight of the LS1 and gearbox compare to the weight of the RB30, geabox, front diff and transfer case?

Twin Turb's FTW, should have fit them first. :thumbsup:

I'd say the new motor would be lighter than the old one but the gearbox from the Commodore is monstrous. This car never had a front diff or a transfer case btw. :D

yeh, the engine is lighter being full alloy and having plastic intake, the new headers are also alot lighter

than the cast ones. the flywheel will also be lighter as well as the clutch assy as we are going from the standard 12.5" truck setup to a 10.5" clutch, actually using a GTR pressure plate, but the Tremec is big, think of a R33 5 speed then add 20 kilos. Its all good though as the weight is in the middle of the car and the engine sits further back than the inline six also. The turbos are something i would like to do, but want to run the car aspirated first. turbos, manifolds, plumbing, pipework, intercooler would add about 80kilos to the front of the car and would cost about $5500, not just yet. hoping to make around 350rwkw aspirated and turn the engine to 7000rpm, should be fun in a car that ways 1000kg.

I'd say the new motor would be lighter than the old one but the gearbox from the Commodore is monstrous. This car never had a front diff or a transfer case btw. :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...