Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some might probably remember this same car having a RB26/30 and a powerglide dummied up in it,

but after some calculations it was soon realised that this combination was going to cost tens of thousands

of dollars to complete the engine alone. So the engine & transmission were sold and the project put on hold.

Six months later i came across a low Km LS1 and Tremec 6 speed. For a laugh on a saturday arvo a friend and I thought

we would see if it would even look like fitting, the joke soon became a reality.

Factory Nissan engine mounts were used on the cross member, block to mount brackets were fabricated.

The sump did not need any modification. The factory power steer rack was removed and a VL manual rack was fitted to allow for starter motor clearance. VX Commodore 1&3/4" into 3" extractors were fitted with slight mods, just had to tuck them in a bit. PWR Radiator to suit R32 was purchased and custom shroud and fan fitted. Gearbox crossmember was fabricated

as well as custom tailshaft with masive F100 front Uni. Jim Berry supplied custom clutch and flywheel. Factory LS1 wiring harness will be fitted.

Custom fuel cell was modified to house two Bosch 040 intank pumps and plumbed up with speedflow fittings through a Russell

inline filter into turbosmart reg.

I plan on running the engine aspirated at first with just a cam and valve spring change. Should make 350kw at the wheels.

Hope to fit twin Disco potatoes later down the track.

post-20078-1191449175_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449345_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449459_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449625_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191449987_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450111_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450218_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450440_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191450656_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191451384_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1191451951_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187852-r32-ls1-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It took about 4 hours to mount the engine and box, about the same to mount the rack. the headers took a couple of hours to modify, fuel system took about 8 hours. still have to wire it but that shouldnt take to long. could easily do it in a week if you didnt have to wait for parts to be made, eg clutch, tailshaft, radiator etc.

;) how long did it take from the initial fit to turning the key?

whats a proper V8? it makes you wonder why its been done heaps if Ls1s are shit. but u know what your talking about, ill pull it out tonight.

man it's been done heaps, ls1's are shithouse should of got a proper v8... afterall it's a holden.... but either way nice work....
Edited by BezerkR32
Nice work mate.

How did the weight of the LS1 and gearbox compare to the weight of the RB30, geabox, front diff and transfer case?

Twin Turb's FTW, should have fit them first. :thumbsup:

I'd say the new motor would be lighter than the old one but the gearbox from the Commodore is monstrous. This car never had a front diff or a transfer case btw. :D

yeh, the engine is lighter being full alloy and having plastic intake, the new headers are also alot lighter

than the cast ones. the flywheel will also be lighter as well as the clutch assy as we are going from the standard 12.5" truck setup to a 10.5" clutch, actually using a GTR pressure plate, but the Tremec is big, think of a R33 5 speed then add 20 kilos. Its all good though as the weight is in the middle of the car and the engine sits further back than the inline six also. The turbos are something i would like to do, but want to run the car aspirated first. turbos, manifolds, plumbing, pipework, intercooler would add about 80kilos to the front of the car and would cost about $5500, not just yet. hoping to make around 350rwkw aspirated and turn the engine to 7000rpm, should be fun in a car that ways 1000kg.

I'd say the new motor would be lighter than the old one but the gearbox from the Commodore is monstrous. This car never had a front diff or a transfer case btw. :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...