Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh i bought it from a young fella from the gold coast. he had advitised it on here. was about 18 months or so ago.

Dont know where the pics went.

Pulled the box out today. had 17mm clearance between the release bearing and pressure plate, causing excessive pedal travel to get the clutch to release. machining up a 12mm spacer to go behind

the slave cylinder which is one piece with the release bearing on a tremec, that will give us the necessary clearance and a good pedal.

Engine also coming out as to bolt heads and manifolds on. easier to do it all on a stand and only takes 15mins to pull it out seeing that box is already out. will weigh engine and box while they are out.

ordered a harrop short shift kit this week, so ill fit that while box is out.

just saving cash now to get suspension From SK. also looking at brake packages, looking like buying G4s or similar. just dont have the cash and cant see the point in spending 8k on brakes for a car that i dont know if i am keeping.

QLD??? Was the shell from BMI Stu?

dash looks great....thanks for posting up. that is one of the next jobs we are up to although we are not keeping the dahs pad either.

btw somethings wrong with your tacho, it only goes to 9? how will you keep it on boost?

ha, ha. I thought i read somewhere that i had to retain the factory dash pad.....is this the case, otherwise i will fab a sheet metal one. im shore i read it in some CAMs rule or something.

yes i know, 7000rpm is just off idle for a RB but screaming for a boat anchor.

By the way, those switch clusters are made by ACA, they are not badly priced either. there are all sorts of combinations and colours. I only need a switch for lights and wipers and also the ignition/start switch, but heaps of options available.

dash looks great....thanks for posting up. that is one of the next jobs we are up to although we are not keeping the dahs pad either.

btw somethings wrong with your tacho, it only goes to 9? how will you keep it on boost?

Edited by BezerkR32

price mainly, Harrop short shifter $197inc delivered. b&M rip-shifter $360+gst + delivery.

saving for Harrop 8 throttle intake.

Looking great Stuart! This thing will be an absolute blast to drive, no doubt.

What made you go for the Harrop short shifter instead of the Ripshift?

Im loving the black roof. Makes me wanna do it to my car and get rid of my carbon bonnet that is yellowing like all hell :(

The car has certainly come a long way, Congrats mate, It should be nice and punchy out of the corners :)

price mainly, Harrop short shifter $197inc delivered. b&M rip-shifter $360+gst + delivery.

saving for Harrop 8 throttle intake.

And just in case people don't know what intake Stu's referring to, check this out for automotive porn!

main.jpg

again with the cams, and yes the intake is horny, just checking with harrop to see if it is worth the money. giving me some before and after torque and power figures on modified engines as it does nothing for a standard engine. Have to get suspension and brakes first. ill get it running with the standard intake first.

Finished the dash, mounted battery and isolator switch today. also remote mounted oil pressure senders. temp sender is fitted in remote oil filter boss. all these little things take heaps of time, but getting through them slowly.

Lucky there are no over head cams to get in the way of that lovely intake :D
  • 3 weeks later...

I like that. It is becomming a bit of a (everybodys doing that) though. Oh well, mines a 32 so its different.

Purchased a few bits and pieces courtesy of some boys on here. Brake master cylinder brace and strut brace.

Almost got enough cash to buy front brakes, and if i sell go-kart ill get suspension.

still waiting on heads.

had a customer turn up with a complete LS2 in a crate, had manifolds, the lot.

Sticker on the crate said 91kg gross including packaging.

I figured as much funny how ls1's wicked cause its lighter than a rb but when you take the box into account I doubt there's much if any difference between the two engine and gearbox packages

sites Ive found quoting around 200kg for a ls1 complete minus box

err box who knows?

anyway goodluck with it just don't expect it to own all first time out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...