Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have some nice Rays gt2s for sale that woul be sick on the silvia... :)

My front suspension arms arrived today, so should have everythig fitted and the car on the ground this week-end. was hoping to have the engine assembled and fitted but have had an issue with valve spring retainers, so unless a replacement set arrives 2morro, the engine will probably go in next week.

nice. they were a good buy. I was nearly going to grab them as a spare set for the silvia. then remembered I already have 3 sets of rims for the silvia.... :banana:
Edited by BezerkR32
  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

... and additional front diff support bracket.

Charles do you mean the one that goes under the nose of the diff? If so, ditch it. Only the 32gtr ran this extra bracket, 33 and 34 don't use it, and neither do some big power cars I know of with theis cradle. You just need some large washers to protect the lower bush

Picked up heads after sorting out the valve train issue which ended up being a dodgy set of locks. Got a new set of Manley locks and all was sweet.

ARP head stud kit, MLS Felpro head gaskets, Comp Cam anti pump-up roller lifters, Comp Cam pushrods & Yella Terra rockers. I know that the pushrods may be a bit foreign to some people. lol. Also fitted stainless ARP exhaust manifold stud kit, as they were cheaper than GM.

Comp ended up at 10.9:1 after the deck machine, which is excellent as standard is 10:1

Will finish setting up the rocker pre-load and sit the engine in tomorro.

post-20078-1226395704_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226395777_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226395864_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226395949_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226396046_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226396124_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226396178_thumb.jpg

Picked up heads after sorting out the valve train issue which ended up being a dodgy set of locks. Got a new set of Manley locks and all was sweet.

ARP head stud kit, MLS Felpro head gaskets, Comp Cam anti pump-up roller lifters, Comp Cam pushrods & Yella Terra rockers. I know that the pushrods may be a bit foreign to some people. lol. Also fitted stainless ARP exhaust manifold stud kit, as they were cheaper than GM.

Comp ended up at 10.9:1 after the deck machine, which is excellent as standard is 10:1

Will finish setting up the rocker pre-load and sit the engine in tomorro.

Looking nice!

I hope you didn't mount the heads the way you are about to in the bottom left picture... It shows your about to mount the head in the wrong direction... (Exhaust port to the intake side...) :domokun:

yeh, was going to try something different, but it wouldnt fit lol. you dont miss much. :(

Looking nice!

I hope you didn't mount the heads the way you are about to in the bottom left picture... It shows your about to mount the head in the wrong direction... (Exhaust port to the intake side...) ;)

some hot rod guys told me there was 10kw in doing it.

Starting to bang it all together, all going sweet, i guess thats the advantage in triall fitting everything first.

ill finish fitting radiator, and dummy up engine harness so electrician can start. can also start buying bends for the exhaust

Should get a mechanic to do it, Stu.

:)

post-20078-1226479364_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479521_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479614_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479695_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479772_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479879_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480084_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480170_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480255_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480336_thumb.jpg

they are off our Commodore. They are 1&3/4" primary pipes into 3". they had to be modified to fit but only slightly.

Nice!

Not long now until you can start it...

From witch car does the headers come from? Pontiac GTO?

And what are the spec on the headers?

thanks Phunky, still a while off though. hoping to have it all done for powercruise, that will give me the oportunity to run everything in and sort out any teething problems before i track it.

Looking good! Can't wait to see this thing in action

BezerkR32, amen to ya brother, forget the haters lol, mine makes 340hp on a completely stock engine with a link g4 ecu, ive owned many an rb20det and a couple work rb25dets and I have to say I enjoy my new setup the most by far. I did manage to retain my power steering though, although its so incredibly tight as you can see from the pictures, that it initially wore a hole in the starter motor:S I have the car running now, just havent updated the thread. Cant wait to see some action footage lol.

Video

http://www.bebo.com/FlashBox.jsp?FlashBoxId=8060454510

Build Thread

http://southernskylines.com/phpBB3/viewtop...f=24&t=2359

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...