Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wha? i hope not. :banana: we need good shops and guys that are willing to try different stuff. from the pics and info in this thread stu is well up there. i know things are pretty rough at the moment though. :P

anyway, hopefully you can keep going in some capacity mate. :sick:

thanks for the kind words guys, but as you have heard i have closed the workshop indefinately.

There were a few contributing factors that i wont go into but at the end of the day when going to work feels like a chore and not fun anymore then decisions have to be made. I found that i had lost the passion i had when i opened 5 years ago and that business pressure was increasing with all outside factors such as fuel prices & interest rates earlier in the year and now the global collapse, all which indirectly affect small business. Also the fact that my landlord felt fit to increase my rent 40% on my first renuwal after he new i was settled and established.

At the end of the day i was working to pay bills, and felt guilty when id spend a bit of cash on the car.

Going to work early and coming home late also has meant i have missed spending time with my young family which i will now have the opportunity to do.

Thanks again to all of you who trusted me to work on your cars and supported me in my business.

The good thing is now ill have more time to spend on my own car and hopefully get to some events to enjoy it with the rest of you guys.

Cheers Stuart.

PS Chevys Rule lol...

well it's always sad to see another shop go down. but it sounds like you've made the right choice for you mate. :D best of luck with whatever you are up to next. :D

looks like I'll have to check out the yellow peril at an event instead of the shop, but that's even better. :D

Hey man,

Not good to hear that Bezerkly has now closed.

Any chance though, you could post up what things are actually needed to make this fit exactly?

From what I read on another thread, it's new engine mounts, notching the cross member, gearbox mounts, and a new clutch master, plus the electrics, piping, and custom exhaust etc...

Anything else you can enlighten me on?

depends on what you are fitting it in....

in a 32 it required engine mount brackets on the block to be fabricated, clutch master is off a 33, i ran a VL manual steering rack, but guys reckon you can leave the standard one, but i think its to tight, cross member is untouched. fabricated a gbox crossmember for the tremec, can leave standard radiator. exhaust, wiring etc goes without saying. All has been detailed with pics in this thread.

If you plan on street registering this car i would talk to an engineer first.

Hey man,

Not good to hear that Bezerkly has now closed.

Any chance though, you could post up what things are actually needed to make this fit exactly?

From what I read on another thread, it's new engine mounts, notching the cross member, gearbox mounts, and a new clutch master, plus the electrics, piping, and custom exhaust etc...

Anything else you can enlighten me on?

Cheers Baron, make sure you let me know when your in town..

well it's always sad to see another shop go down. but it sounds like you've made the right choice for you mate. :) best of luck with whatever you are up to next. :P

looks like I'll have to check out the yellow peril at an event instead of the shop, but that's even better. :)

ordered my trick mufflers from gonzo today, in QLD next week so will pick them up then, ill post pics when i get them as they are different from mufflers most of you would have seen.

so planning on getting exhaust, tin-work & a few things in engine bay like breather can and overflow made. want to run car at that 6 hour at wakefield in march so have a deadline now. also need to tune car , set wheel alignment and suspension set-up and find a rear screen.

I've been reading this thread for a while now (blardy interesting!) and it's a shame to see the shop go. It seems you have made the right choice for yourself though, so that's good :)

Can't wait to see this thing finished and rolling! :)

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, after a week of perfect weather in QLD on holidays i took the oportunity to pick up my hand built mufflers from Gonzo, who is the exhaust guru. These are his new trick mufflers, and like i said they are nothing like you would have seen before. They are 3" merged into twin 3" pipes but with the spiral vortex baffles welded inside. They excellerate gas flow while muffeling sound.

Gonzo also had a software programe on his PC which after entering some engine specs gave us the ideal collector diameter, merge collector area and ideal dinstance from collectors to merge collector.

All of this aids in throttle responce, torque and peak power. Hope to have car back soon to fabricate exhaust and other tin-work etc.

post-20078-1232281977_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1232282051_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1232282116_thumb.jpg

ha, ha, they werent as much as you might think, payed $320each. Also bought all the flange plates, mandrel bends, hanger brackets and some straight pipe. whole system will owe me about $1700 including the extractors and HPC coating.

how many thousand did that set you back?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...