Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nismo engineered this car to the best of their ability. Why would your Dad want to change anything on it at all?

I'm calling BS anyway.

Hey Snowman, has Ben at Race Pace worked on the Z Tune before? Nice guy BTW. Did he get rid of the purple R33 GTR and buy a white 34 GTR?

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im a boilermaker apprentice, and a guy from trade school, his boss' owns the z tune

plates [ZTUNED]

showed me pics of it parked out the front of his work

aparently his boss sucks ass at driving it, and sent it back to japan to get more shyt done to it

(i dont know if that parts true, im sure theres a misscummunication... i think he sent his 34 gtr to get a full ''Z tune")

anyway i cana sk him and see fi civic is talking crap

i believe him thou

i know his boss wanted to sell it

yea, Im going to go with General consensis. You do not need (nor would want to) change anything on the Z-tune, especially ecu. as it is already a mean mutha as it is. and has been extensively tested and tuned to what it is now.

Only reason to change ecu, (which would require retune), would be if you were going for more power!, and in that case ;) thumbs up. But even saying that, whats been said already about the Z-tune, is that its already got Immense acceleration, so more power might not really be required.

I think a few of you are missing the point here....

The Z-tune is an extremely rare car and I feel should be left exactly the way Nismo made it. Sure it COULD be made to go faster, but why would you bother? Do you think that the Phase III GT-HO being auctioned off by shannons (Sydney Motor show) would be worth as much if it wasn't original and someone had done their own backyard mods?

If you want to build a monster GTR buy a run-of-the-mill one (if there is such a thing) and mod that; the Z-tune should be left as is.

Edited by Chris-06R
I think a few of you are missing the point here....

The Z-tune is an extremely rare car and I feel should be left exactly the way Nismo made it. Sure it COULD be made to go faster, but why would you bother? Do you think that the Phase III GT-HO being auctioned off by shannons (Sydney Motor show) would be worth as much if it wasn't original and someone had done their own backyard mods?

If you want to build a monster GTR buy a run-of-the-mill one (if there is such a thing) and mod that; the Z-tune should be left as is.

+1

I call bullshit, there is no way an enthusiast would pay over $200k on a car and then mod it when its status is that of its engineering, authenticity and integrity....

Absolute bulldust, someone would not change a major mod like that expecially when there is only one in the country... If you tried to sell it later on you would have buckleys chances of selling it as all enthusiasts would know the issues and loss of authenticity.

Now one buys a z tune to mod it, as it is at its peak of class and 'special' manufacture.

Its like saying, i bought an Enzo so i could put tempe specials on it!!!!

WTF?!

I call bullshit, there is no way an enthusiast would pay over $200k on a car and then mod it when its status is that of its engineering, authenticity and integrity....

Absolute bulldust, someone would not change a major mod like that expecially when there is only one in the country... If you tried to sell it later on you would have buckleys chances of selling it as all enthusiasts would know the issues and loss of authenticity.

Now one buys a z tune to mod it, as it is at its peak of class and 'special' manufacture.

Its like saying, i bought an Enzo so i could put tempe specials on it!!!!

WTF?!

hhhmmmmmmm he hasnt been seen in this thread for awhile either....maybe it is load of shit

I call bullshit, there is no way an enthusiast would pay over $200k on a car and then mod it when its status is that of its engineering, authenticity and integrity....

Absolute bulldust, someone would not change a major mod like that expecially when there is only one in the country... If you tried to sell it later on you would have buckleys chances of selling it as all enthusiasts would know the issues and loss of authenticity.

Now one buys a z tune to mod it, as it is at its peak of class and 'special' manufacture.

Its like saying, i bought an Enzo so i could put tempe specials on it!!!!

WTF?!

I would not call bullsh!t based on that reasoning.

People mod F40s all the time, people have put rims on an Enzo, people with a lot of cash spend more on the car, but still want to toy with it. My Uncle bought an F360 Spyder new, but had to lower it and put an exhaust on it straight away. These people have the same idea as you, but they are spending more on the car in the first place, simply because they have more to spend, but that is the basically only difference.

Get some pics of the Z Tune please mate. :D

Hey Snowman, has Ben at Race Pace worked on the Z Tune before? Nice guy BTW. Did he get rid of the purple R33 GTR and buy a white 34 GTR?

Yes he has worked on it. When John (Original Z Tune owner here) brought it down from Syd to Melb he ran it in the 06 Dutton Vic and whilst it did ok it only ran 1.22's at Sandown which is good but not special. I spoke to him during Dutton and he took it down to see Ben afterwards. After Benno tuned it it was a much better car. You should see the before and after dyno graphs!

Also Ben never owned a purple R33 to my knowledge. He's always had the crazy white R33 and for a short time he also had a really nice white R34 with white CE28's as a street car - but he sold that about 12 months ago.

Also Ben never owned a purple R33 to my knowledge. He's always had the crazy white R33 and for a short time he also had a really nice white R34 with white CE28's as a street car - but he sold that about 12 months ago.

Geoff's purple R33 GTR spent a fair bit of time at Benno's getting tuned n stuff. Might be referring to that.

back on topic, if whoever buys it retains the original parts, toys with it, then puts them back on when reselling, I'd consider that fair. Its the old arguement in the classic car community where some people will ONLY put correct period parts in their cars, and others will rejuvenate the older parts with better items, but still maintain the car's heritage and appearance.

Geoff's purple R33 GTR spent a fair bit of time at Benno's getting tuned n stuff. Might be referring to that.

back on topic, if whoever buys it retains the original parts, toys with it, then puts them back on when reselling, I'd consider that fair. Its the old arguement in the classic car community where some people will ONLY put correct period parts in their cars, and others will rejuvenate the older parts with better items, but still maintain the car's heritage and appearance.

Agreed, so long as it can be put back to standard easily then fair game for history's sake.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...