Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Unit Removal

Chris Rogers

By Chris Rogers,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

R34

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prise out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

4 - Undo the 2 silver screw at the top of the heater controls.

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

7 - Refit going from step 5 back

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190825-head-unit-removal/
Share on other sites
skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted

Nice guide :/ here's the 32:

R32

1. Pull out ashtray like below, undo two screws behind it

2. Flathead screwdriver under the rear of the center console, push up, it will pop out

3. Flathead screwdriver under the top half of center console, pops out, remove center console, or turn it around

4. Undo 4 screws, two either side of headunit, pull headunit out

5. Undo cage holding onto headunit, refit to new headunit, finish wiring off and put back in hole

6. Refit going backwards from 4 :D

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
  • Author
Posted
was I your guinea pig chris???

keeep it on topic guys.

my intent was to get this stuck to the top so everyone would stop asking how to get them out and stop filling my PM box u :spank:

jon,

can't remember done too many of the things.

  • 3 months later...
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

R33

remove ashtray

remove 3 screws

unclip panel around shifter

remove two more screws below radio area.

unclip main surround

unclip wiring from: clock,hazards,rear demist , A/C temp sensor, electric mirrors

remove main surround.

remove 4 screws from radio assy.

unclip HVAC and radio wiring.

contact me for pocket,harness and antenna adapter

remove 4-8 screws from radio and put yours in place.

reassemble.

Edited by Chris Rogers
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 months later...
2KR34 Enthusiast

2KR34

Posted
Posted
R34

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prise out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

4 - Undo the 2 silver screw at the top of the heater controls.

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

7 - Refit going from step 5 back

OK I used Chris's instructions and a couple of extra things that he told me about so here is a slightly more detailed description with pics.

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

The ashtray just pulls out with no significant force needed. I just pulled on the open lid.

Pic1.jpg

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

This takes a bit more force, I pulled from the back near the handbrake and levered it up with my fingers. I also pulled off the shift knob at this time but you could probably do it with it on but I thought it would be easier with it off. There are 2 screws at the front of the knob, put the shifter right back in low to get easier access. It takes a little bit of maneuvering to get the surround over the front of the shifter indicator and be careful not to scratch the vinyl with the hard edges of the surround. Unplug the lighter, lighter surround light and steering wheel shift switch. All plugs have a release tab, push it in or you will get real cranky trying to get em off.

Pic2.jpg

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prize out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

This is the panel that houses the 2 vents and the hazard switch. I used some masking tape around the screwdriver to avoid scratching the vinyl when levering. Unplug the plug at rear.

Pic3.jpg

4 - Undo the 2 silver screws at the top of the heater controls.

Pic4.jpg

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

I put some toweling over the lower console area to avoid scratching the vinyl.

Pic5.jpg

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

I undid a couple of extra screws to "open" up the cage a bit to allow the radio to be removed and the new one installed more easily and without scratching anything.

Mine had the aerial adapter already fitted as there was already an aftermarket deck installed but the previous fitter had butchered the wiring loom so it was a bit more work to re-wire all the wires in a decent manner but if you are removing the stock deck then get the correct plug adapters and aerial adapter available from Chris or some auto outlets. I also bundle any wire slack in some padded tape to avoid any rubbing or rattling later on.

Pic6.jpg

7 - Refit going from step 5 back

I connected everything up and tried all deck functions before re-fitting the cage permanently just in case but luckily for me all went to plan.

Hope this helps, Mark.

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Rucker34 Collaborator

Rucker34

Posted
Posted

this really helped me out!!

I just thought i would add that to get the gear surround out it actually a little lever point for you to put a screwdriver by the handbreak at the back. i was having trouble working out how to get it off untill i spotted that.

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
jackdanielz Collaborator

jackdanielz

Posted
Posted

might sound stupid but, how do u disconnect the plug behind (the wire connection) the car lighter, there are two of them, one is bigger than the other... seems like it would not come off however from the picture above, obviously 2KR34 can took them it off..

i just dont want to break it because i use it for a lot of thing to charge my ipod, gps, and when i left my lighter.... basically half of my life depends on it.. :)

pls help someone

its for a 34 btw

cheers

bly

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...