Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After reading pages after pages of technical information on the engine, transmission, aerodynamic, suspension, electrics etc etc, it seems that the fine engineers at Nissan have covered every base. You have an insanely fast car thats capable of cruising at 300km/h at the same time, quiet enough to hold a conversation (dont' know why you would at that speed). It has a great set of suspension that can handle any condition with ease. The engine is up there with all the other supercars in the world. Overall, they seemed to have put together a perfect package that's going to be hard to improve upon, any alternation is more likely to disturb the balance of the car.

It seems there's nothing left to mod and if there is anything left to mod, it would be very expensive. The exhaust mods would cost twice as much now that there's two. Changing the turbos would be even more costly, as the manifold is now actually built into the turbo. Any change in the turbo would require a replacement manifold as well. That two of everything again. Going big singles is......quite impossible?? considering the turbos are now on both sides of the car. With so much electronics in the suspension, is it going to have any improvements if you change it to a more harder coilover for example? How will the electronic system adapt to that? I'm also sure many have thought about aftermarket kit designs to make the car look more aggresive. Having read some of the pretty picture Nissan put up about the aerodynamics of the body panels, how will aftermarket parts affect that.

I almost forgot to mention the wheels. The wheels are 20" in diameter with run flats which means you don't need a spare in the boot. With a wheel size this big, most 18-19" aftermarket wheels will fit but most likely won't look as good going down a size. The tyres themselves is a problem when it comes to doing any modification. Any tyres you get will have to be in 20" rubber and if you are going on the safe side, you'd want run flats as well. I don't think its going to be cheap getting 20" tyres.

Will the new GTR going to have that much tuning potential left after Nissan doing such a thorough job of it? Will it end up being like a run of the mill supercars you see on the streets? Or will the crazy Japanese tuners come up with more crazy ideas?

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm sure many people felt the same way when the R32 was released back in 1989. But they found ways to improve it.

At the very least, there will be people who will want their GTR to do 10 second 1/4 miles (and some will want 9's, maybe 8's). Thats how the aftermarket gets started.

ok we'll u have some good points there but it only makes 353kw. as for turbo upgrades... most ppl change manifolds anyway!

and it is a 3.8lt so u could go for a pair of pretty big turbos and not worry too much about lag. the exhaust will be expensive coz theres 2 of them??? lol 300zx's also run twins.. big deal

If u can afford to buy a gtr then u can afford to modify it with ease. twin exhaust isnt that expensive anyway.

most ppl wouldnt touch the suspension as its low enough as well as hard enough for anything u throw at it including circuit work because thats where it was tweaked.

Rubber... well it runs 20's and the wheels are gorgeous.. so why bother changin those.

If your going to race it then u could improve every aspect of the car. :P

for starters that bonnet and exhaust needs to be changed with better lightweight stuff. full titanium exhausts are already being developed.

then there's the bodykits... from what I've read a whole heap of potential owners would prefer the front bumper style of the Proto over the production model.

Not to mention guys who wanna develop stroker kits and people who want more power.

besides... emissions compliance is for people who like warranties... i'm sure once you rip out half the shit in that car which allows it to meet the gay American emissions standards you'd have a car that breathes a lot better.

I bet Rays have some special 20" TE37s being made up. :P

Anyway if you can buy Gembella, Alpina, RUF etc parts for European performance cars I don't see why the GTR will be un-moddable.

Mod parts will definitely cost more though but as Bumblebee said "If u can afford to buy a gtr then u can afford to modify it with ease."

And lets not forget about our fine friends at nismo, im sure theyre already going over it.
I agree, they probably are getting theirs dropped off at the workshop as we speak :O

nismoix7.jpg

:sorcerer:

Nismo will have something for us at the festival I'm sure!

you can be sure nismo have been involved in the car for years. even HSV work along side holden on new bommodores.

but remember when the 32 first came out it was all mild looks and mods at first. It took almost 15 years before a t04z was the must have accessory for your gtr.

There's people out there who mod, Ferrari's, Porches and Lambos in increasing numbers, so why would the GTR be any different. If you have 150k to drop on a GTR, then you have the $$'s for mods.

Wheels shouldn't be a problem as RAYS make many 19",20" inch wheels already.

It is too soon to call.

Wait for the N1 version of the GTR and then we can all just STFU!

I am sure Nismo will release there version which will just kick it off BIG TIME. The race to mod one will be on with all the Japanese workshops probably already ordered a few to tweak.

I wonder how much wieght they can rip out of it. When I think about it, even ripping out all the Luxuries it still would be heavier than a R33 in stock trim. Theres gotta be some things really causing the massive weight.

I wonder how much that dsg box weighs.

First mods that i would look at (please god one day...) would be weight reduction CF body components and the like. Im sure once it gets into touring car racing there will be a whole bunch of race tested mods that will filter through into the general market.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...